z80

This is a very quick stop/start.

Thanks for the story though.

intelliGEORGE

Anything show up in the ECU codes Z?

Gerbertron

I had a similar sounding problem on a skyline with a rb30, turned out to be a dirty afm, a hotwire type afm was used on that car.

It's already been mentioned but that's my guess.

intelliGEORGE

Standard ECU, but run scanners like AutoTap and EFI Live to connect and do my mods, my last successful mod was the throttle body bump stop.

My throttle butterfly stopped at 78.8 degrees(full throttle), after a few sessions with the dremel tool I managed to shave the bump stop to a point where my butterfly now opens to 89.8 degrees(full throttle) equivalent to installing an aftermarket throttle body ($450)for a fraction of the price

It's amazing how much restrictions car manufacturers put in to SLOW the car down. i.e. Ribbed plastic Air Intake pipes which cause turbulence, throttle body, higher temperature thermostats (make the car run hotter) etc

Godzilla

Yes sounds right George.
Manufacturers do a good job restricting the true potential of stock engines.

The way i see Zeds problem, he should concentrate on getting the temp gauge working and testing that the other ecu temp sensor is functioning first.

If codes prove to be a run around a simple multimeter will show power signal to the components. A variable resistor can replicate a temp sensor.

For all we know the temperature gauge may be faulty and have nothing to do with the problem.

Back to why there are 2 sensors.
One is for the ecu to control air/fuel to temp to idle speed.
The other is sometimes used to control thermo fans.
Ive seen car temp gauges run off either one depending on manufacturer.
Without a wiring diagram i honestly couldnt tell you, id be guessing.

If the temp gauge problem is sorted and the problem persists look at what the other members have posted and what i have also posted...same thing.

The fuel pump can cause the same symptions, yes a 2 stage high low flow pump that can be rewired to stay on high flow but more on that if all else fails.

Yes get the temp gauge out of the way first IMO.


Edit; Good post on ECU code retrieval George, nice one.

dogsbreath

I think I still have a gregories manual somewhere in the shed if you want it.
Regards Craig

checkitout

I used to have one of those Pintara's with exactly the same problem.

What fixed it in the end for me was the main computer. Apparently they get moisture inside of them and eventually it plays up doing the switching off by itself bit.

I was really annoying in the end - it got worse and worse - eventually gave it to Nissan and they said "yep see it all the time" Did an exchange unit for $600 and that fixed it for me.

The one I had also had a noisy diff (from 80kmph onwards) sorry I did not miss it when I sold it. It was just a run around car for me then.

Good Luck with yours

machine

I'm going with fuel filter near the petrol tank, not the one in the engine bay

Fernbay

You sure it's not running windows?

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Godzilla

Yep heard the ECU's can get corrosion, also dry solder joints and also suffer from bad earth problems too.

I also cannot remember a r31 without a noisy diff. LOL

intelliGEORGE

It's a 1987 model, don't you mean OS/2 1.0? LOL

z80

Will have more info on the weekend,

thanks for all the help guys....much appreciated.

intelliGEORGE

That's generally what happens after you apply the break then accelerate again Z. lol

Mods

In reply to a few of the more recent posts -
It wont be a fuel problem - it's definately electrical.
It's unlikely to be the ECU - I had mine replaced with a brand new one, and made no difference - I also bought a s/hand one from the wreckers, and this made no difference as well.
Certainly in my case the ecu codes were useless as it's an intermittant electrical problem.
Good luck - I'll be very keen to find out the eventual fault - if you manage to find it.

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secure

I had an issue like this too. It was the module inside the distributor cap. Make sure it's also got the special grease on the back of it to help with heat disspitation.

z80

It was the module in the distributor.

Just replaced the whole dizzy for $60.


He reports it was fine all weekend.

thanks all....

vampyre

We had the same problem with my wife's Nissan Bluebird.It also turned out to be the module in the dizzy.I wish I have noticed this thread earlier I could have told you the problem straight away.Sorry Z80.


Vamp

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Godzilla

Yeah some jerk mentioned it first thing post 2, the most common thing to go in them.

On a side note did you get any codes off it zed (dont think so).

Had a feeling the temp gauge problem may be a seperate problem.

Anyway all looks good now.

z80

thanks godzilla....I was in denial, cause I had replaced it for a broken vaccuum advance diaphram fault earlier.

The temp gauge issue was a faulty sender(s) but didn't fix the dying.

Thanks guys....real talent here..

busman4152

The one my son just bought seems to have a fault with the fuel control. If you accelerate it seems to surge up and down. It also won't idle very well. When you turn ignition on the thermo fan starts up as well. I'm thinking it might be water temp sensor fault any thoughts guys? I don't think it is the same problem as z80's because it doesn't stop it just runs like a three legged dog!
Oh and does anyone have a workshop manual by chance?