Reply With QuoteDid you check on the inverter?
If you are lucky some or all of the markings will be there too.
Just the PWM and ADIM would enough to see where the connector has to go.
I assume they used two connections for two different inverter types.
I stuffed up
Needing help.
I just replaced some bad caps in this Samsung LA32R81BDX.
I'm always very careful about where plugs go but this time failed to notice 2 sockets that are the same and I'm not sure where to put the plug.
It's the 14pin from the inverter board on the left.
In the photo, the top socket is marked with an "S" in a circle. The bottom socket an "A" in a circle.
The 'S' socket pins are : PWM , ADIM , BL , NC , GND , GND , GND , GND , GND , 24v , 24v , 24v , 24v , 24v.
The 'A' socket pins are : GND , PWM , BL , ADIM , GND , GND , GND , GND , GND , 24v , 24v , 24v , 24v , 24v.
All from the top down.
| Look Here -> |
Did you check on the inverter?
If you are lucky some or all of the markings will be there too.
Just the PWM and ADIM would enough to see where the connector has to go.
I assume they used two connections for two different inverter types.
Tomtom GO730 ,Navcore 9.004 ,Bootloader 5.5256 ,Map :Australia 845.2661ttmaps and Tomplayer on 16GB SDHC class6Password for all my files: downunder
Didn't see it at first but it is marked near the inverter plug. It was under the shield.
Still not obvious to me which socket to use except I assume error wouldn't go to a NC ??? ... meaning I think it would go to socket'A', but am I right ?
Note : the photo is upside down.
Last edited by loopyloo; 26-07-14 at 09:43 PM.
Due to no ground on the first pin I too would say socket "S".
Especially if the brightness is controlled by the inverter too.
But that is only a suggestion from my side as the inverter has no ground on the first pin and ADIM is for the brightness control.
Tomtom GO730 ,Navcore 9.004 ,Bootloader 5.5256 ,Map :Australia 845.2661ttmaps and Tomplayer on 16GB SDHC class6Password for all my files: downunder
I would say S also.
Last edited by mickstv; 26-07-14 at 10:41 PM.
After a little reading up of my own I tend to agree with you.Originally Posted by Downunder35m
Apparently ADIM is negative brightness control.
Some Russian said that Samsung doesn't normally use the error feedback.
and I've check and found that pin1 does not go to the chassis.
So it looks like pin1 is the modulated supply, pin2 is the dimming, pin3 is the blanking and pin4 is not used. Sounds logical to me.
So the question now is, if I connect to the S socket and turn it on, will I do some damage if it is in the wrong socket ?
Mind you, I'm pretty sure I don't want to put that ground where it shouldn't be, so blow it, I'm gonna give it a try.
Last edited by loopyloo; 26-07-14 at 10:46 PM.
What brand panel is it. Sticker is normally under the tuner board.
Choices are........................
A:Acer(AUO)
S:SEC
C:CMO
Another way to find out is look at the model info on back cabinet, on the first line you'll have Model:LA32R81BD........X (R). X should be the prefix for the screen. If X isn't shown the screen will normally be a SEC.
So A and S line up with the SMPS label.
It's La32R81BDX/XSA on the back panel
That's the Model Code, it should have just the model above it like in the pic below.
Last edited by mickstv; 26-07-14 at 11:09 PM.
Last edited by loopyloo; 26-07-14 at 11:31 PM.
So the worst thing is the Samsung manual doesn't list whether the C:CMO LCD goes into A or S, typical.
Well with the plug in 'S' I powered it up.
LED comes on red and I hear a soft tic like a cricket but it won't turn on. That's trying the tv buttons, I don't have a remote.
Constant ticking is a symptom of Eeprom failure. IC1803 part 1103-001385
Yeah but it's only one tic when power is applied (and when power is removed).
I forgot I had a Harmony. Funny, the front panel buttons don't do anything but the remote tries to turn it on.
The led goes off when I press the remote power button. Any other button makes the tv power led flash but no response other than that. Also the remote power button won't turn it off again.
Funny but the last tele I did had the same symptoms and an update fixed that.
I'll have to check voltages and components on the power supply board tomorrow.
By the way, is this the right chip ? ....
Will the tv try to start up with the chip removed ?
Last edited by loopyloo; 27-07-14 at 01:40 AM.
Tried something different.
I desoldered pins 5 & 6 of ic1803.
Symptoms now changed.
Still clicks once at power on or off.
Power on with remote does not turn off the red power led anymore but instead the wide blue arch shaped light in the middle of the front lower panel flashes in sync with the remote code.
The TV still doesn't turn on.
Front panel buttons still don't work either.
Last edited by loopyloo; 27-07-14 at 11:31 AM.
Might be obvious by now, but I assume you got the TV in that non working condition?
If so, why don't you just follow the advice above?
Faulty EEPROM means just that, using only half of a broken chip won't make it better.
Those things coast a few cents and few minutes to solder in.
In the usual "repair packs" you get on Ebay the chip is included for a reason
Tomtom GO730 ,Navcore 9.004 ,Bootloader 5.5256 ,Map :Australia 845.2661ttmaps and Tomplayer on 16GB SDHC class6Password for all my files: downunder
Yes I did get it like this. Picked it up off the street. lol.
Desoldering pins 5 & 6 comes from another post as another test. and yes I have been following the advice and was going to order the chip tomorrow so of course I had time to experiment a bit.
So now for the update.
I discovered a resistor RM801 (0.22 ohms) with a hole in the side of it and it was open so I found one on an old UPS board replaced it.
Upon switch on nothing else blew so I resoldered the chip legs.
The Tv now works fine (well almost). The remote works, the buttons work, the screen displays stuff (didn't try an antenna yet) and I don't see why it would have any more faults at this stage.
There is still one small problem. Now I know this tele had water in it, and the screen pattern is lovely. haha.
Next job is to remove the screen from the chassis and see if I can clean it out.
Wish me luck. lol
Last edited by loopyloo; 27-07-14 at 03:42 PM.
Yes I did get it like this. Picked it up off the street. lol.
Desoldering pins 5 & 6 comes from another post as another test.
So now for the update.
I discovered a resistor RM801 (0.22 ohms) with a hole in the side of it and it was open circuit so I found one on an old UPS board replaced it.
Upon switch on nothing else blew so I resoldered the chip legs.
The Tv now works fine (well almost). The remote works, the buttons work, the screen displays stuff (didn't try an antenna yet) and I don't see why it would have any more faults at this stage.
There is still one small problem. Now I know this tele had a little water in it, plus dirt and very fine leaves etc.. obviously left outside and the screen pattern is lovely. haha.
Next job is to remove the screen from the chassis and see if I can clean it out.
Wish me luck. lol
Good luck, cleaning should not be the problem
Tomtom GO730 ,Navcore 9.004 ,Bootloader 5.5256 ,Map :Australia 845.2661ttmaps and Tomplayer on 16GB SDHC class6Password for all my files: downunder
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