Thread: On/off Alarm from Keypad Until Code Is Entered for the Second Time

The beeping is advising you you have a fault with your system so every time you disarm it beeps to let you know there is a problem you then need to enter code to acknowledge it.

was the siren tamper wires connected to a zone in the ppanel or the on board tasmper / keyswitch coonections

Beeping like that is usually due to a low battery or a mains fail

Thank you for your responses.

Tastech: There was no separate zone for the siren and I believe that the tamper switch must be connected to the keyswitch on the panel.

Keef82: It is very likely that the problem is associated with a low battery. The AC light is on indicating that 240V is applied to the panel. However with the 240V being off for about 2 weeks the battery would have run down and because it is 10 years old most certainly finished. I have measured the voltage at the terminals and it is 14V, but I do believe the battery needs to be replaced.

Can you tell me what type of battery I should buy? Where can I buy one? Can they be bought at (say) Laurence and Hanson).

Thanks for your help.

Joe

Originally Posted by caravanner01

However with the 240V being off for about 2 weeks the battery would have run down and because it is 10 years old most certainly finished. I have measured the voltage at the terminals and it is 14V, but I do believe the battery needs to be replaced.

Can you tell me what type of battery I should buy? Where can I buy one? Can they be bought at (say) Laurence and Hanson).

Thanks for your help.

Joe

10yrs would be at least twice its life expectancy. ie it was probably well & truely dead 5 years ago. Measuring the voltage at the terminals tells you nothing. If it is still plugged in you will be reading the float voltage , if it is not plugged in you will be reading the "no load" voltage. If you were to put a 15Watt car blinker globe acrosds the terminals & then read the voltage you will probably find it drops to about 2 V. The battery is a 12V 7Ah . Cost will depend were you buy it from. Anywhere from $20 - $60. If you are doing this yourself then ring a security tech & you should get it for around the low end of that price range. Go to DS if you prefer to pay the higher end of the scale

Originally Posted by caravanner01

Hello all,

Following a number of recommendations to my question under the title, “MY DL.250 Has Started to Alarm Whilst Not Activated”, I shorted out the tamper switch. (i.e. I connected the blue and white wires together.) Only time will tell if I have fixed the problem as it was an intermittent one.

I now have a new problem though. Now when I key in my code (both when arming and disarming) an on/off alarm from the keypad commences. When I enter the code again the on/off alarm stops.

When arming the alarm, this on/off alarm ceases when the system arms itself x seconds afterwards. However when the system is disarmed this on/off alarm only stops when the code is again re-entered.

Can anyone tell me what is going on?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

A DL 250 will beep under a few conditions.

If there is a zone bypassed, the panel will beep upon arming and disarming (if it was a 24hr zone that was bypassed)

If there is a mains fail to the system.

What wires did you twist together. This may not have fixed anything as there should be a resistor at the tamper switch which you may have now bypassed. What lights are showing on the codepad? Is there a tamper light. This depends upon where the tamper was wired into. Was it wired into a zone or to the onboard tamper terminals on the circuit board. If it was to a zone then a resistor would be required. If the circuit board terminals then no resistor required. It is usually the external siren tamper that plays up. This should not be wired to the onboard tamper terminals but some people do.

More info is needed if feel. These are simple systems. Maybe a photo of the codepad would help

Cheers

Paul

Watchdog: Thank you for your comments. I intend to contact Direct Alarm Supplies to see at what price they will sell me a 12V 7Ah battery.

Paulypudding: My system is a simple one. There is no tamper light on the pad. The pad consists of 2 parts for its indicator lights. The top part has 4 lights as follows: Armed (Red), Secure (Green), Partial (Don’t know, never used it) AC On (Red). The bottom part has light for 8 zones with each light being yellow.

When I disconnected the 2 wires to the tamper switch I did not see any resistor. Further I thought that switch was a normally closed one and so thought that shorting the 2 wires (one blue and one white) would not cause any problems. Hopefully I have not done anything foolish.

Thanks for your help.

Joe

Jaycar also sell a 12V 7.2Ah SLA battery for around $35.

Just follow the wires from your tamper switch to confirm if your using the dedicated box tamper circuit or other zone outputs which would require the resistor.

The box tamper is located at the top right side of the DL250 P.C.B, is a
normally closed circuit and must be open circuit for activation. To select one of the options available program one of these
characteristics listed in the table below in location 157. Factory default is "0" (silent characteristics). Note: the box tamper
circuit must be sealed if not used.
VALUE TAMPER SOUNDER CONTROL
0 SILENT
1 SIREN
2 CODE PAD SOUNDER
3 SIREN & CODE PAD SOUNDER

Thank you for your advice,

I have installed a new tamper switch and associated resistor and all is working well.

If I get any more spurious alarms I shall by-pass the tamper switch ensuring that the resistor is connected in series with the switch's 2 wires.

Thanks again,

Joe