VE SS Caliper Bolts
Can anyone tell me the torque specs of the two highly torqued bolts that hold the caliper on these cars?
Cheers
The fact that there's a highway to hell and a stairway to heaven says a lot about the anticipated traffic flow.
| Look Here -> |
The ones that hold the calipers to the brackets or the brackets to the hub arm?
I usually go pretty tight with some red loctite on the ones to the hub arm and the ones from the calipers to the brackets i dont go too overboard on and use blue loctite on them.
Yeah, yeah, yeah, i know, but my arm is a pretty good judge of torque......
enf (09-02-17)
I've never torqued caliper bolts, or used loctite on them (though I should). Provided you do them up tight (think wheel nut tight) you should never have any issues.
I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...
enf (09-02-17),loanrangiel (11-02-17)
My book says they are torque to yield on VE/VF SS/HSV and bolts should be replaced then Tension them with a torque wrench to 80-90Nm, then another 40-50 degrees . But I do exactly what others have mentioned ( I dont replace the bolts )Just A drop of locktite and tighten bolts .Originally Posted by enf
enf (09-02-17)
Thanks guys...new bolts come with the kit, so thats not an issue...
The fact that there's a highway to hell and a stairway to heaven says a lot about the anticipated traffic flow.
The bolts that hold the calipers to the sliding pins on the brackets generally only 25-35Nm, lower than most hobby torque wrenches.
So a normal not too tight feel on an average spanner, sometimes you need to counter hold the sliding pin with another spanner.
And make sure the sliding pins slide freely.
How often do you get seized sliding pins and what is your best method to get them loose, when they don't budge even with heaps of WD40, a torque wrench and freeze spray?
Last edited by Uncle Fester; 09-02-17 at 05:57 PM.
Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...
enf (10-02-17)
lol, yeah I know what you mean; I have always been an elbow click torque type as well for everything except main & rod bearings & head bolts, however since I got back on the track with a 200hp 200kg motorcycle, brakes mean a lot when you are expecting them to slow you from 250km/h+ down to 50km/h or you will hit a wall.
So yeah, I now torque my caliper bolts.
It's an interesting experiment to add the torque wrench after you do the elbow clicks & see if you were high or low? BTW; not one person will get the same reading as you will. Some will be way too high stretching the bolt & threads, some will be way too low & risk it undoing under heat & vibration.
Brakes are your safety; even in a car! Just saying.
Last edited by Tiny; 09-02-17 at 06:57 PM.
Cheers, Tiny
"You can lead a person to knowledge, but you can't make them think? If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the problem.
The information is out there; you just have to let it in."
yeh I've been torqueing all the bolts on the Duc calipers and wheels. Safety first!lol, yeah I know what you mean; I have always been an elbow click torque type as well for everything except main & rod bearings & head bolts, however since I got back on the track with a 200hp 200kg motorcycle, brakes mean a lot when you are expecting them to slow you from 250km/h+ down to 50km/h or you will hit a wall.
So yeah, I now torque my caliper bolts.
It's an interesting experiment to add the torque wrench after you do the elbow clicks & see if you were high or low? BTW; not one person will get the same reading as you will. Some will be way too high stretching the bolt & threads, some will be way too low & risk it undoing under heat & vibration.
Brakes are your safety; even in a car! Just saying.
I usually see it on cars that have not been serviced correctly or regularly, usually those customers have pads just slapped in all the time and no one has stopped to look at why the pads wore out so unevenly or stopped to service them.
I usually just lock on a pair of vice grips and move the pin a little left and right while pulling on the slider.
If its a common car and its really stuffed i would just buy another second hand caliper bracket with pins.
Other wise i would polish the pins on a wire wheel to remove all rust and hit the slider pins bores with rifle brushes.
Then inspect for any gouges in the bore (if none then its OK, if damaged throw the bracket away), any small high spots on the pins can be polished on a stone and blended in.
I always use copper paste (anti seize) on the slider bores and pins during reassembly.
Not too much, otherwise it builds up at the end of the bore and the pin wont go in all the way......(mentioning this in case the caliper wont go back on for anyone as its usually why)
enf (10-02-17),lsemmens (10-02-17),Uncle Fester (10-02-17)
Oh and enf, i am assuming you have normal VE/VF SS calipers, so here is a warning......
Take GOOD NOTE, 2 of your pads are inner and 2 of the pads are outer, they are different to each other.
I had a bit of fun 6 months ago when i had a customer return some rotors because one cooked itself and the other was fine, he was a qualified mechanic telling me it was my rotors and that they were shit, i thought being the first ever pair i had seen cooked ill take them back and refund the guy knowing something was wrong with his car but not bothering to start a fight as i couldnt be stuffed.
2 months later another customer contacted me with the same complaint, i was just about to reply to him when a local mate who also bought a pair rocked up to my place to tell me he just fitted the brakes and was bedding them in.
Problem was as he rolled up smiling there was a cloud of smoke pouring off the left wheel......
Jacked up the wheel, pulled all the pads out while wearing gloves and guess what?
2 outer pads fitted on the left wheel and 2 inner pads fitted to the right side.
He sort of went red when i pointed it out.
Now i know why there rotors have been cooking on one side only........and they had been fitted by qualified mechanics......
carjackma (10-02-17),enf (10-02-17),lsemmens (10-02-17),Tiny (10-02-17),Uncle Fester (10-02-17),VroomVroom (10-02-17)
One would think that the engineers who designed such a strange contraption would have had the sense to make sure that the pads would not mechanically fit if inserted the wrong way around.
Found a wrecker interstate who has a working caliper with bracket. Grey import, so not an easy find.
Thanks Godzilla for your always informative response
Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...
Large slotted rotors and six (front) and four pot (rear) Brembos.....and I'll also be using braided lines....
The fact that there's a highway to hell and a stairway to heaven says a lot about the anticipated traffic flow.
Godzilla (10-02-17)
Brembos....
I was just discussing with a mate today on how to shut them up on SSV and FPV models.
Brake noise is a serious issue with them, we regularly get calls from buyers who are at their wits ends as how to stop them squealing.
I remember one buyer who was up in QLD calling up saying he tried 6 different brand pads fitted by a different fitter each time and the thing was still driving him crazy.
Gave him some tips, he got back to me 4 months later saying it was the quietest he has ever had it but still gets a little sometimes.....
enf (10-02-17)
Aaaah, interesting. My son has a mechanic mate that does this sort of thing all the time, and he did tell me something about the handbrake......is that ringing a bell?
The reason I'M a bit vague about what he said is that I was driving a few of them to Summernats at the time and I had a wheel sensor issue (I messaged you about it) and then I came home and had a few (quite a few) beers....
The fact that there's a highway to hell and a stairway to heaven says a lot about the anticipated traffic flow.
Nah, its the pads moving under braking in the calipers that makes the brake squeal with the brembo caliers.
Usual fix, 45 degree chamfered edges on the pads leading and trailing edges and copper grease on all the pad to caliper contact points such as where the pistons press against the pad backing plates, leading and trailing edges of the backing plates where they contact the caliper body and a bit on the pins.
I have not heard anything about the handbrakes but im sure there is probably some sort of issue there too.
Holden, Ford, same shit, great cars but always some sort of stupid issue that could have been engineered better that lets them down.......
enf (15-02-17)
Interesting about the Brembo brake squeal. A few years ago the mechanic replaced the pads and rotors on the Brembos on my old Peugeot. Never heard anything make so much noise. It took 2 different sets of rotors and 3 different pads before he got the right combination.
I now have a set of genuine Peugeot pads (with quite extreme chamfering on the leading and trailing edges) on the shelf for next time although I'm sure the mechanic never wants to see that car again for brakes. LOL
Last edited by mandc; 12-02-17 at 08:25 AM.
I forgot to mention one other thing, stick on rubbery backing plates that you can buy separately, cut to size and peel off the backing paper to apply.
I just remembered because i have a neighbor 2 doors up that just bought a FG F6 and you can hear him from Km's away braking.
Promised id sort it out for him, he thinks im doing him a favor, im actually doing myself and all the neighbors a favor because im sick of hearing his car coming home at 3am and waking up the whole neighborhood.
enf (15-02-17)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks