Bosch Solution 6000 alarm self install?

[th37sk]

Hey Austechers

Is the Bosch solution 6000 something the average tinkerer can self-install? Our property is currently in renovations at rough-in stage. I will have the electrician on-site do all of the wiring (he has wired several alarm systems and has experience with Bosch 16, 6000 etc. )

The system in entirety will be:

• Bosch Solution 6000-GSM (only sms utilised)
• Wireless upgrade kit - 2 stainless remotes
• 4 tri-techs (pet-proof)
• 1 Bosch outdoor Tri-Tech (for courtyard)
• 2 Full sized siren
• 2 indoor screamer
• No reeds

Once all wired, do I require any special hardware to light it up? I've seen alarm parts websites saying they can "program" the system for an extra $50. I'd like to create 2 zones, 1 for front of property and main-living areas, and 2 for rear of property including outside courtyard and garage/studio the thought being we'd activate zone2 at night when sleeping, etc.

Also, I was looking to source hardware from Any other suppliers worth looking at?

Thanks

[downunderdan]

The easy answer is no.

Here is a question worth considering .Are you wiring your own powerpoints as well? If the answer is no, ask yourself why. Then think about the role an alarm system plays in your life.

You are obviously trying to save a bit of money but it seems to me that you are potentially throwing quite a bit of it away on a potentially unreliable system, that (even if working beautifully) relies on you being able to receive a call. Also, when that siren's ringing due to a false alarm in the backyard caused by an outdoor sensor placed by an inexperienced DIYer, I'd hate to be your neighbour.

[gristle]

Hey th37sk, I am a security tech and have only installed one of these (it was previously the Solution 144 and has been renamed). I researched it thoroughly, took my time, and still had some challenges with it as with any new system that one installs the first time around. Without any industry biased opinions, I wouldn't recommend it for someone with no security experience. Admittedly our customer had 9 access control doors plus intrusion and multiple keypads hanging off the panel, but even in your case, I think you are asking for trouble. Do you know about EOL resistors and basic concepts about fitting off the panel, etc? There is a bit to learn. (Licensing is a whole other issue, this is more about technical competence and experience). Good product though in my opinion. Not sure if the new software interface has been launched yet. That would be a welcome inclusion. Cheers

[th37sk]

Hey th37sk, I am a security tech and have only installed one of these (it was previously the Solution 144 and has been renamed).

Out of curiosity, does the Solution 16 differ much from the Solution 6000 in terms of install? eg if you've done heaps of Solution 16's, the 6000 will be much the same? The security tech who normally signs-off on my electrician's (install) work cited he hasn't done the 6000 yet, so was wary of the job. I am absolutely willing to pay a licensed tech to finalise the install/job, as note.

And noted on all other points fellas, and thank you for the feedback. I take it on board.

I have certainly worked with resistors over the years - not end of line resistors per se. I wouldn't recognise when one was required in terms of target voltage but if the installers guide/specifications called for EOLR & or nominated targets I could absolutely test for it & incorporate as required.

[downunderdan]

the37sk,

Thanks for taking my earlier post in the spirit with which it was intended. The problem with nearly all 'serious' alarm systems is that their documentation assumes certain prior knowledge, that a DIYer won't have. EOLs and detector placement are the two best examples of this.

Beware of the pitfall of bringing someone in to complete another's work. When things go wrong you'll find yourself in the middle of a giant finger-pointing exercise. At least once a week we decline work where people have bought some security hardware online and want us to install it. It will always end in tears when the customer's expectations aren't met and there's literally a few hundred dollars in it. I suspect you'll be spending more on a single item in your kitchen than what's happening here so my frank advice would be to get a professional in from end-to-end, rather than a cast of thousands with no ultimate responsibility.

[gristle]

Out of curiosity, does the Solution 16 differ much from the Solution 6000 in terms of install? eg if you've done heaps of Solution 16's, the 6000 will be much the same? The security tech who normally signs-off on my electrician's (install) work cited he hasn't done the 6000 yet, so was wary of the job. I am absolutely willing to pay a licensed tech to finalise the install/job, as note.

Similar in many respects to the Solution 16 Plus, but NOT the 16. Programming layout was similar, LAN topology was different. LAN modules and other accessories differed. Why did you choose the 6000 over the 16 plus?

I would have to agree with Dan with regard to finger pointing when multiple parties are involved. Don't do that, it's asking for trouble. No reason it should cost you more for the security tech who is commissioning to rough in compared to the sparky roughing in. Without generalizing, a good security tech (a good one!) will keep cables separated from power, use different penetrations, etc. If you engage the security tech to do it, ask whether he will clip or secure cables in the roof, provide separate penetrations, etc. You often pay for what you get. If the tech is wary, it might be for a reason.

[th37sk]

Why did you choose the 6000 over the 16 plus?

I was mostly after the GSM module for future-proofing. Thanks for the reply on other questions.

After your direction downunderdan and gristle, I've decided to leave this job to the pros. Much appreciated. For what it's worth, the notion to self-install wasn't entirely an exercise in saving money. To me, it's more the challenge of learning something new, understanding how a system works, having the satisfaction of it lighting up, it working as intended, etc.

I'm in Melbourne and have contacted a few local security outfits - one rang yesterday and said he'd match the quote on parts I generated using Cheapalarmparts ($1447) plus $500 install consisting of 2 visits - rough-in and later return after plaster to finalise. He's installed 3 of the 6000's, giving the unit high praise. Said he's fully familiar with the unit, etc. which is reassuring.

This leaves me asking, is $1947 a reasonable price for the above hardware supplied and fully installed?

It's a two story property but as mentioned, is wide-open at the moment, accessibility good. Happy for recommendations on local security firms who do good work (if it's within the forum rules to post this) otherwise happy to receive PMs.

Thanks again fellas and cheers.

[watchdog]

This leaves me asking, is $1947 a reasonable price for the above hardware supplied and fully installed?

.

Is it that long ago that an FAI "cricket bat" with 2 extra PIRs and a pair of remotes was fetching $3000 ?

[th37sk]

I've booked a local firm. $500 install (on top of what I was fully willing to pay for hardware) which will necessarily include a couple of rough-ins, is totally reasonable and I appreciate you boys getting me to this point. Cheers

Wish I could buy you blokes a beer

[gristle]

I've booked a local firm. $500 install (on top of what I was fully willing to pay for hardware) which will necessarily include a couple of rough-ins, is totally reasonable and I appreciate you boys getting me to this point. Cheers

Wish I could buy you blokes a beer

Hey th37sk, sounds very reasonable to me. Well done, happy it's worked out and happy we could help steer you in the right direction. I'm Melbourne based, so watch out I might call you on the beer!

Feel free to PM me if I can be of further service of if things don't work out. Cheers

Let us all know how it goes too, I was a fan of the one we put in and I hope you enjoy playing around with yours.

[th37sk]

I'm resurrecting my old thread as I have a couple of niggling issues with the system.

1. At installation, the installer connected the alarm to phone line (as the system is able to ring in case of event, altering to intrusion). We tested it; worked fine rang my mobile at tripping the alarm. However, when the alarm is connected my ADSL2+ syncs 50% lower! It cuts my sync speed in half. I have tried ADSL filters, etc. to no avail so basically just disconnected the phone line so not in use.
2. I frequently receive a beeping error code, 'gsm trouble gi1' It can go off at any hour and is super annoying if we're in bed as can wake the house, etc. As GSM alert is our only form of contact from alarm, it is disconcerting as gsm falls over so regularly. The sim is from ALDI - 12mo. pre-paid (on the Telstra network).

Any tips for rectifying poor sync when alarm is attached to phone? It's all new phone line in house as was recent renovation. Any idea why the GSM is falling over so regularly (often 6-8 times a day)? Good ol' Tel$tra 3g dropping out, or? Should I order a replacement SIM from ALDI as test?

Any direction is greatly appreciated.

[Drift]

The ADSL sync issue requires a splitter, not an inline filter to resolve. This device is hard wired into your telephone cabling. Regarding the GSM issue, chances are the communicator is actually 2G. GSM is a 2G technology but unfortunately the term GSM has been adopted into the industry's vernacular as meaning just about any form of mobile Comms device. That aside, if the communicator is in fact 2G, you're out of luck. Telstra are shutting down their 2G service for good in December, Optus following in April and Vodaphone I would imagine won't be too far behind. 2G drop outs are increasing as Telstra upgrade their 2G sites and stop repairing faults. I suspect this is what you're encountering in that regard.

[secure]

As Above.
Get a ADSL central splitter filter installed.
There is now a Bosch 3G gsm module which you will need to replace your old 2G gsm module.

[watchdog]

I think you are jumping the gun here in saying a central filter will solve his problem. It will only solve his problem if line loading issues are the cause of his problem. Essentially in line filters & central filters do the same thing - filter off the adsl and present a high impedance load to the line so as not to degrade the adsl. The main difference is that an in line filter can only handle the load impedance of one (maybe two at a stretch) telephones whereas the central filter is good for quite a few more ( up to a REN of 6 )

[th37sk]

Thanks everyone for the helpful replies.

Bugger re GSM 2g issue. I say bugga, as the 3g gsm module is a $330 fix.
I've opened my panel and do indeed, have a 2g module. Is the module something I can swap over, fairly easily (guessing will require a reprogram with my mobile#)?

And the central filter, I don't have one! Thanks for the heads-up.

In regard to the house wiring, I have a single CAT5 wire going into the property (from street) with phone running to 3 points in the house. The electrician presumably jumped the alarm line in with telephone eg alarm is not on a dedicated line. Obviously, this means I would need to install a central filter at the junction/jump point in order to be effective, correct?

I have contacted my builder requesting his electrician install the central alarm filter. I've also asked the alarm company who did my (alarm) wiring for install. The alarm guy mentioned he was a sparkie for years before getting into the security game. Waiting to hear back from either. Happy to pay either to sort this.

Another thing I will note, my ADSL2+ was approx. 1.4mb/s down before renos.. After all new wiring house wide, I can only sync at 1.1mb/s And mind you, this is without the alarm connected to line (only feeding adsl2+; we don't even use a land line/phone). Hoping my all new internal wiring isn't a crap job. An apprentice did a good deal of the wiring with the main sparkie not even on site, for much of the work

[mtv]

Separating the ADSL signal with a central filter/splitter should help increase your data rate.

The ADSL central filter/splitter connects to the lead-in, before any devices/sockets.

After the filter/splitter, the phone (voice) line goes to a mode3 connection at the alarm, then onto the rest of the phone sockets.

Anyone (including an electrician) requires an open cabling licence with structured twisted pair endorsement to perform (and certify) the cabling work.

If the apprentice does not hold the above licenses/endorsements his/herself, the rules are mandatory that they are directly supervised by the licensed cabler at all times.

[th37sk]

If the apprentice does not hold the above licenses/endorsements his/herself, the rules are mandatory that they are directly supervised by the licensed cabler at all times.

Thanks mtv. Yeah, that didn't happen. The apprentice was on site alone for many weeks where the sparkie would rock up end of day to, "check on him." I can't tell you how many times I heard him on the phone asking how to do something or what a reading meant. OT </rant>

So an electrician (not the ^^ above tool) is coming out next week to install a central alarm filter. I offered to have one available on site.
I purchased this guy last week before (replies here and) realising it needs be hard-wired:



Is it better that I grab an outdoor filter (??) like:



^^ this one doesn't mention Alarm but the Jaycar unit does:



Cheers gang

edit: link fix

[secure]

Use the outdoor style unit. It doesn't need to say alarm.
I don't use the alarm filter one as the pin config isn't suitable. You may find that it does have hard wired krone strip under the cover on the small unit.
Line In, Line out to ADSL Modem, Phone out to Mode 3 then return connected to rest of Phone wiring.

[mtv]

Of the pics you've posted, definitely go with the outdoor type.

The RPG and Jaycar look like the same item.

This is the type I mostly use, as the electronics are fully encapsulated in epoxy.

[bss904]

the c10's are good reliable devices.