A Good surger Protector wiith over2500 Joules
Yes as the Title says Where can you buy a Surge Protect for your TV + stuff over 2500 Joules
Thanks
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MOVs are generally rated for just 100j or so and have a fuse preceding them to interrupt supply permanently in the event of a massive overvoltage surge.
What you're talking about here is more like an industrial lightning arrester and unlikely to be PCB mountable.
Yes I want to protect a lot of gear in the main TV room. The biggest capacity can can buy is around 2150 Joules (Belkin). All I want is a 2 to 4 socket that protects over 2150 Joule. the Bigger the Better (PS I always pull the plug out of the wall but what happens if a storm arrives when I'm not home and I forget to remove the Socket off the wall that Feeds One expensive Tv + 9 24 inch Monitors + 8 Sat Box + Other stuff. I have been Zapped on other rooms on out house (over TV rooms) when everything is turned off from the wall but the Plug was not pulled out.Originally Posted by Skepticist
The Higher the Joules the better.
Also I don't want to break the Bank $$$$
Last edited by Mr 672A; 09-10-17 at 12:54 PM.
I guess you have to take the claims made by manufacturers/distributors as gospel but still I wonder how they hold up in the real world.
Jaycar have a 10 outlet board (CAT.NO: MS4033) on special just now with a claimed 4300J energy absorption figure for the power outlets at $70. It provides protection for telephone line, ethernet, TV antenna and also provide 2 USB2 sockets for charging devices.
Yes like a grain of salt.
thanks for tip of Jacar, Will have a look when I go that way on Friday
Does not have Earth. Strange ???
Well, no earth apart from the incoming wiring earth conductor?
which is connected to the neutral in your mains switchboard/meterbox (MEN system) so neutral and earth are at the same potential under normal conditions.
The powerboard has MOVs between all 3 conductors just in case (A-E, A-N and E-N) of wiring variations.
A nearby lightning strike (eg to a tree) can deliver a spike of over 100kA which is going to raise the local earth potential dramatically producing nanoseconds of chaotic voltage spikes in the ground regardless of how well your equipment is connected to it. EG. the ground (and neutral) could rise to 1000s of volts above the active due to the current and the impedance differences of the various paths the current spikes take. The only real protection in the rare worst case is to not be connected at all (plug pulled out).
Last edited by Skepticist; 10-10-17 at 11:30 AM.
Mr 672A (12-10-17)
That's a reason why you also pay insurance. If it gets fried, a good insurance policy should cover the repair/replacement. There are building devices available, but I can't recall who made them now, it's been 30 years since I worked in an environment that needed them. (Computer shop in Darwin - which, incidentally, suffers the highest number of "Thunder Days" as any capital in the world. (for an interesting read
I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...
Mr 672A (12-10-17),Skepticist (10-10-17)
Just realised another reason to go off-grid
Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
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This is the reason why I don't like QLD as in Sydney we have copper mains for our water service but her in QLD we have plastic and not copper and we rely on our M.E.N to much
Yes The hint of a storm I pull all the Plugs out of the wall. (made it easy to do this)
How do you figure that ?
If you're supplied from the grid, the distribution transformer has a 'star' connected LV winding which is the source of the neutral conductor and it's also connected to a network of earth electrodes around the transformer - the number of electrodes depending on the local soil impedance. Every customer connected also has an earth electrode which is connected to the neutral in the switchboard hence the name of the system (Multiple Earthed Neutral) so, in the worst case of a broken neutral, there's a backup path back to the transformer via the earth.
If the soil impedance is high(ish) such as in extended dry weather and the neutral is broken, the earth potential at the customer's board can rise to the point where people will get 'tingles' or worse when touching anything connected to the earth like taps, appliances etc and the earth voltage then depends on the customer's load (more kW's = more volts on the customer's earth electrode compared to the transformer's star point). The neutral conductor remains the lowest impedance return path to the star point of the transformer with the earth path in parallel with it.
A large lightning strike to ground produces a voltage drop across the resistance of the ground the current passes through and people have been zapped by simply having their feet apart when lightning struck nearby - that's known as a 'step voltage'. Even with a solid neutral distribution conductor, the combination of the fast rise of the earth/neutral voltage in a strike combined with the inductance of the network can cause a huge rise in earth/neutral potential near the strike. Very short but very destructive as electronics can't even endure a microsecond of it and a separate earth connection from your surge suppressor to your earth electrode would achieve nothing in that event.
There's also still a common misconception about electricity and ground. The only reason your mains active conductor(s) are attracted to ground is as I said above IE the neutral is connected to earth at the source.
Last edited by Skepticist; 12-10-17 at 02:09 PM.
Mr 672A (16-10-17)
... and that tells us to never pee on or near an earth/neutral connector or near HV masts, especially after very dry weather
I learned that at UNI
Last edited by Uncle Fester; 14-10-17 at 12:24 PM.
Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...
Well technically that would be a 'touch' voltage similar to what you'd get if leaning against a tree when lightning struck it
painful nonetheless :O
Find it on Jcar site and read the specs. That tell you this.
Yes I learn't that to at tech years ago + the star point on trannys. Yes every now and then I loosen and clean my earth electrode and try to keep it reasonably wet. Yes step Voltages can have 200 + Volts between your legs if you are walking and your legs are far apart.... and that tells us to never pee on or near an earth/neutral connector or near HV masts, especially after very dry weather
I learned that at UNI
Last edited by Mr 672A; 16-10-17 at 09:22 AM.
About the earth: The powerboard's 'earth' connection to earth is via the neutral and earth wires in parallel in its power cable because the neutral and earth are linked in your switchboard and the lowest impedance path back to the transformer star point is via the distribution mains neutral conductor. The earth electrode is just for a last ditch backup if the neutral wire is broken and any current >30mA going via that earth electrode will result in the RCD tripping (excluding a major fault like a fire in the switchboard itself that is). Basically neutral and earth are the same thing when it comes to faults.
Mr 672A (16-10-17)
As I'm in an old (28yr), QLD house (GoldCoast), we have copper. The newer ones (10yrs??), have plastic as you say. But don't they still have copper 'to' the house, then its plastic after that?
Cheers,
GT250
Back in the last millenium, the water mains in the street were a convenient earth because they were metal pipe and the sections of pipe were connected together so the the joints were low resistance. At some point mid 1900s a pipe jointing method using rubber rings was adopted making the use of the water mains for earthing back to the transformer source much less effective due to the lengths of pipe being insulated from each other and MEN became the norm ever since. In my case the water pipes in the house are copper but the connection between the house and the main shut-off valve + water meter is a flexible plastic pipe and I suspect the mains in the street are also plastic now because rust and galvanic corrosion are not a problem with those. Every state had its own water/electrical distribution authorities so reticulation techniques vary.
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