Is it washing? i.e. going through a wash cycle? If so, then the motor is fine. Does the machine drain? If so, the pump is ok. Could be the main control board.
Did some searching and also opened up the machine to see if anything obvious was faulty first but machine doesnt want to spin.
It did spin briefly when i was skip thru the settings but now the timer just runs down and the bowl doesnt rotate at all, pump is working fine which i read could be a cause of the no spin syndrome. Seems that worn brushes are a common cause of the motor not rotating ?
Look Here -> |
Is it washing? i.e. going through a wash cycle? If so, then the motor is fine. Does the machine drain? If so, the pump is ok. Could be the main control board.
I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...
No, bowl doesnt spin at all. It tries to go thru the motions and timer runs done but no washing or spinning. It fills and drains fine, had the top off and can hear low buzz from the motor area.
Got a spare machine from my parents so will pull the brushes and check them out.
Rather than pull the brushes, why not pull the entire motor?
I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...
I could but if the brushes can be removed with motor in situ it will be an easy way to check.
No need to take the motor out. Just use an ohm meter or continuity tester to see if the brushes are OK.
Buzzing noise from the motor? Is there something mechanically blocking the drum?
Last edited by Uncle Fester; 06-12-17 at 11:49 AM.
Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...
Maybe a faulty start capacitor.
I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...
It is a brushed motor. There is no start capacitor.
If you tested the rotor(brushes) and the field coil for continuity and the rotor is not seized up then the motor itself is OK.
It may however have a speed sensor (tachimetric generator). Check that the wiring is good for that, basically test the whole harness to the controller board and the sockets for continuity.
If you can pin out the actual connection to the tachimetric generator you can connect your voltmeter and rotate the drum/motor and see if it has any low voltage ouptut AC or DC. At least it should not be open circuit but have some DC resistance (Ohm meter reading).
Last edited by Uncle Fester; 07-12-17 at 12:44 PM.
Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...
loanrangiel (12-12-17)
Just for completeness i finally got around to checking the machine out 2 weeks ago, 1 brush badly worn and the other looked good. Got a set off ebay and its back up and running, the 25 yo F&P that we used as a spare worked well but i now prefer the front loader.
Bookmarks