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Thread: Hisense HLUD65XT880 wont start.

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skepticist View Post
    Those varistors like RV801 (near bottom right side) would be doing the job of overload protection on the mains input (a guess). The fact that the supply actually runs suggests the varistors are ok so checking the bridge rectifier would be the next step to take followed by those 3 HV electrolytics (450V 82uF) which I expect are in parallel.

    A schematic would be nice
    Normally on our main TV as a example the Hecto Laser Projector which I still have in another Room I get the FULL workshop Manual with all the diagrams. This manual had a addition for common faults from LG itself.
    Now the Hisense I.ve Never worried about it because it a Shi.tter of a TV by the eat room and never worried about it. Now for our Current Sony KD 75 X9400E well I have contacted the mob that gets the Manuals and should have in in the New year



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    Quote Originally Posted by Reschs View Post
    The small round component, black capacitor like, right next to the mains input is the fuse.
    The fact that you have 240V on the input to the bridge rectifier eliminates the fuse.
    Again check the bridge rectifier for open circuit diode. Short circuit would blow fuse.
    Just bridge a 450V any reasonable size electro across the existing and see if the DC Volts rise.
    So if I get a Capacitor rated at or above 450V and stick it across 3 HV electrolytics (450V 82uF) and if the DC Voltage rises across the output Bridge Rectifier from what it is now 280V DC to 340V DC it is a good sign that one of these caps are pulling the voltage down that does not allow the TV to start.
    By the way when the TV is powered ON the white standby led (HISENSE NAME) is on.

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    The light for the HiSense name would be running off the low power standby supply (3.3 or 5V or similar) which is independent of the main supply outputs. It supplies the sensor cct for the IR remote control and other functions like network interface etc that need to be active in standby mode.

    Does that light flicker when you press a button on the remote? (Just thinking of my Sonys here that indicate remote signals being received and recognised that way but not familiar with HiSense models)

    And looking at the pics of the PCB - there's likely to be a lot of SMD circuitry on the copper side of the board

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skepticist View Post

    Does that light flicker when you press a button on the remote?
    NO!

    Today I disconnected all the three outputs leads of the SMPS and the Voltage increased to a steady 330V DC. One by One (power off first) I inserted the top lead first and turned it on the voltage was at the Bridge Rectifier 330V, followed by the second one being the middle and also it was 330V but when I connected the Last one the bottom one the voltage dropped to 280 - 290 back and forth. Now this lead of 20 pins splits to two sockets on the top of the HDMI board where when I disconnect the right side socket on the HDMI board the Voltage at the rectifier is 282- 290 Volts (Stand by light on )voltage up and down) but when I connect it and disconnect the left one the Voltage is 320V steady and the Stanby light is off.
    So how me thinks the Issue is the HDMI board and possible killed the SMPS as it should have 340 V DC on the rectifier not 329-330 V Dc at the Pins.
    The Plot thickens

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skepticist View Post
    And looking at the pics of the PCB - there's likely to be a lot of SMD circuitry on the copper side of the board
    The only way to find out is by removing it

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    The HDMI Board would draw the most current so the test is inconclusive.
    It does seem to point the finger at the caps. Just find a 450V 100uF or larger cap and bridge it across any 82uf Cap.
    If the voltage goes up it is the caps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reschs View Post
    The HDMI Board would draw the most current so the test is inconclusive.
    It does seem to point the finger at the caps. Just find a 450V 100uF or larger cap and bridge it across any 82uf Cap.
    If the voltage goes up it is the caps.
    Will do. I hope Jaycar has them. We are Talking about any Electrolytic Capacitor at 82uF and bridge it Across (parallel), Bridge it across the existing Cap and not removing the original. I have Good quality Solder sucker if need to remove.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr 672A View Post
    Will do. I hope Jaycar has them. We are Talking about any Electrolytic Capacitor at 82uF and bridge it Across (parallel), Bridge it across the existing Cap and not removing the original. I have Good quality Solder sucker if need to remove.

    Not just ANY Electrolytic Capacitor at 82uF... as stated, must be rated at 450V.

    Yes,, bridge the cap across the existing cap, in circuit.

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    Jaycar have a 100uF 400V electrolytic CAT RE6156 that'll do fine for this test. Getting caps of the exact form factor etc as the originals will need some browsing at RS Components or Element14.
    It appears that the 'HDMI' board handles all inputs/outputs including switches, tuner, IR receiver etc so the TV is a brick without that board working so, if all else fails, what's the availability & cost of a replacement board?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtv View Post
    Not just ANY Electrolytic Capacitor at 82uF... as stated, must be rated at 450V.

    Yes,, bridge the cap across the existing cap, in circuit.
    Will do when I get the 82Uf 450V Caps. I wont get the Jaycar ones as they are robbers. Anyhow I think they are on 400V and 400V is not 450V

    I can get the Caps (82uF 450V) on ebay for $4 for 5 and I don't mind waiting from Chin
    Now I will have to search for the Bridge Recifier (KB J1006).

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skepticist View Post
    It appears that the 'HDMI' board handles all inputs/outputs including switches, tuner, IR receiver etc so the TV is a brick without that board working so, if all else fails, what's the availability & cost of a replacement board?
    Yes If it does not work the Tv is Usless. you cannot even get the RF working

    Will look for a Price on the Big ware house but they are robbers to. The mob at South aust is reasonable.
    Last edited by Mr 672A; 19-12-17 at 11:30 AM.

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    Rang Hisense and the HDMI board is $522 + shipping.... Fu$$

    Part Number of the HDMI Board is
    RSAG7.820.5405/ROH
    Last edited by Mr 672A; 19-12-17 at 12:03 PM.

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    The value of the caps is not critical in this instance as they have a +/-20% tolerance anyway and 400V rating is more than adequate also. I proposed the Jaycar cap only as a quick way to get a single good cap to verify whether the caps are the problem - a single new cap in parallel with the existing ones (will have a low ESR) should make a big difference if those 82uF caps have dried up, if there's no improvement then the caps are looking innocent.

    Holy crap :O (@ the price quote) they obviously would prefer to sell you a new TV
    Last edited by Skepticist; 19-12-17 at 12:14 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skepticist View Post
    The value of the caps is not critical in this instance as they have a +/-20% tolerance anyway and 400V rating is more than adequate also. I proposed the Jaycar cap only as a quick way to get a single good cap to verify whether the caps are the problem - a single new cap in parallel with the existing ones (will have a low ESR) should make a big difference if those 82uF caps have dried up, if there's no improvement then the caps are looking innocent.

    Holy crap :O (@ the price quote) they obviously would prefer to sell you a new TV
    I'll see how expensive the 82 uF400 volt caps are at Jaycar. the Last time I was there I sware I would not go there again.

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    they only have 100 uf at 450 volt only . no 82uf at 400 or 450 available

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    They're no bargain at about $7 but you only need 1 for the test and you'll have a answer as to the state of the existing 82uF caps the same day as opposed to waiting a month for an Ebay delivery from OS. The caps are generally +/-20% tolerance so those 82uF caps will have an actual value somewhere between 66uF and 98uF whereas a 100uF will be between 80uF and 120uF. If only you still had the ESR meter which would give an even quicker diagnosis.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skepticist View Post
    . If only you still had the ESR meter which would give an even quicker diagnosis.
    YES,YES I lost it years ago
    Any how my daughter is picking up three 100uF 450V Caps so we will know in the next 6 hours when she gets home. That Bridge rectifier is not easy to get. If needed it will be in the New year

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    You only need 1 to do the test and the existing caps are long and thin so you might need the replacements (if they are actually needed) to be the same physical dimensions in order to fit them inside the assembled TV. The Jaycar cap is short(ish) and chunky so it's only a temporary device for this test.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skepticist View Post
    You only need 1 to do the test and the existing caps are long and thin so you might need the replacements (if they are actually needed) to be the same physical dimensions in order to fit them inside the assembled TV. The Jaycar cap is short(ish) and chunky so it's only a temporary device for this test.
    Right!
    The daughter pick up the 3 Capacitors and once in the car she look at them and rang me up saying that one is 8 mounts pregnant. I told her top go back and get another one. Now I connect the three of them on top of the existing large long caps and YES I made sure the Polarity was correct and when turn the tv on after 4 seconds one of them BLEW UP!!.
    I turned the Power OFF and waited until the caps discharged and removed the three of them and turned everything back on and checked the Bridge rectifier for AC and a Loaded 340V that has as you know has 280V DC but for ther first time I checked those three long capacitors Those 450V at 82 Uf and I found the three of them to have 398 or 399 V DC. So much for the New caps to hold 400 V DC + and - 10 % These J cars one TOPCON must be - %
    The other thing that I have noticed is when I disconnected the HDMI Board the Bridge Rectifier voltage increased as what I said before but the 3 Caps voltage decreased by around 70 Volts.
    Yes I need some 450V caps even to test as I do not want to test with the Other 2 as they might shi.t themselves.

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    Must be a PFC circuit on the back of the PCB to step the DC up higher - in any case a 400V cap shouldn't fail at 400V. The tolerance is on the capacitance, not the rated voltage.
    What AC voltage rating is on the rating label? If it's something 100-260V AC then there's a PFC (Power Factor Controller) that gives the supply a much wider operating input voltage range.

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