Results 1 to 20 of 20

Thread: Removing Seized Nuts

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    oceanboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    14,616
    Thanks
    6,231
    Thanked 7,248 Times in 3,846 Posts
    Rep Power
    3010
    Reputation
    120032

    Default Removing Seized Nuts

    Tomorrow i have to remove some nuts holding an EGR flange and pipe on an exhaust manifold
    I am expecting it to give me some grief, its been on for 360,000 kms.
    I have been spraying the parts for the last week each couple of days with a Penetrating Spray.

    Any other suggestions for this type of job?
    Would it be better to attempt removing the nuts when the engine is warm or cold?

    I remember my grandfather would use the old Penatrene in that small plastic tube.
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!



Look Here ->
  • #2
    Premium Member
    hoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    -30.7719955,121.495211
    Age
    54
    Posts
    5,012
    Thanks
    190
    Thanked 3,017 Times in 1,307 Posts
    Rep Power
    1031
    Reputation
    37070

    Default

    EGR is the work of the Devil........

    i suggest holy water instead of penetrating spray......

    if that doesn't work you may need to heat the nuts with a blow torch....



    Finally got FTTN, 710m line length....

  • The Following User Says Thank You to hoe For This Useful Post:

    oceanboy (11-01-18)

  • #3
    Senior Member

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    14 Wombat Cres, Goanna Heights NSW
    Posts
    1,122
    Thanks
    542
    Thanked 867 Times in 444 Posts
    Rep Power
    405
    Reputation
    14903

    Default

    Yep heat would likely be your best choice if they don't move with the cat's piss, and even then you may find they tear the threads off with them?

    Your other alternative may be to sacrifice the nuts if you can get at them with a die grinder or similar, just take a chunk out of each side and split them with a cold chisel.

    Either way you will probably need to chase the threads with the appropriate die so make sure you have one on hand.

    And apply some Coppercote (or some other heat-resistant anti-seize) to the threads when you put it back together, that stuff is amazing, next time you pull it apart you won't have any trouble whatsoever!

    Andrew

  • #4
    Senior Member
    Rick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Tassi
    Posts
    3,880
    Thanks
    3,791
    Thanked 3,203 Times in 1,422 Posts
    Rep Power
    1174
    Reputation
    47882

    Default

    I use a portable gas torch and if you can a rattle gun, but defs use heat, if your lucky they will come undone, but my luck I always snap the bastards resulting in extra work

  • The Following User Says Thank You to Rick For This Useful Post:

    oceanboy (11-01-18)

  • #5
    Senior Member
    fandtm666's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    4,735
    Thanks
    18
    Thanked 102 Times in 55 Posts
    Rep Power
    733
    Reputation
    22687

    Default

    heat and if it wont move a nut splitter , have had ti use them a few times but life savers


  • The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to fandtm666 For This Useful Post:

    ausfun (13-01-18),enf (12-01-18),FTTP (11-01-18),oceanboy (11-01-18)

  • #6
    Senior Member
    oceanboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    14,616
    Thanks
    6,231
    Thanked 7,248 Times in 3,846 Posts
    Rep Power
    3010
    Reputation
    120032

    Default

    Thanks guys, it might be hard to get flamed heat on there, some rubber hoses near by.

    I'll do my best.
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!

  • #7
    Premium Member
    Skepticist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    838
    Thanks
    235
    Thanked 397 Times in 337 Posts
    Rep Power
    280
    Reputation
    7320

    Default

    Something I tried a while back is a 50/50 mix of acetone and auto transmission fluid which is claimed to be the very best penetrating fluid and it worked fine for me. Needs some hours like overnight to get right into the seized area and a bit of heat, as always, improves the chances of success. The acetone evaporates fairly quickly so waiting for some hours before hitting it with the blowtorch is a good idea.

    Just found the jar I had the mix in out in the shed and all the acetone appears to have evaporated leaving just A/T fluid even in the supposedly sealed jar (been a couple of years I suppose).
    Last edited by Skepticist; 11-01-18 at 02:31 PM.

  • #8
    LSemmens
    lsemmens's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rural South OZ
    Posts
    6,333
    Thanks
    4,969
    Thanked 3,307 Times in 1,674 Posts
    Rep Power
    1433
    Reputation
    57400

    Default

    Rattle gun, Impact Driver, or nut splitter. Most of the time you've then got to drill the stud out of the block and then use Helicoils to fit a new stud. Have fun.
    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

  • The Following User Says Thank You to lsemmens For This Useful Post:

    xapi (12-01-18)

  • #9
    Senior Member
    nomeat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Commonly found in a pantry or the bottom of a fridge, searching for grains, fermented or distilled
    Posts
    3,792
    Thanks
    992
    Thanked 1,679 Times in 1,030 Posts
    Rep Power
    789
    Reputation
    27078

    Default

    If the usual soaking with all the magic oils doesn't work, I use a dremel with a fibre reinforced cutting disc to surgically cut and remove the nut and have never damaged a stud.
    Have done that with cross-threaded wheel nuts too, which some smart tyre monkeys with their powerful air rattlers created. Heat doesn't help there.
    There are many tight areas in modern vehicles where I wouldn't suggest a blow torch.
    .............................<<Finally Windows has been improved>>.......................................
    Your mouse has been moved. Please reboot WINDOWS 10 for this UPDATE to take place.

    Reboot: Getting Windows ready, don't turn off your computer for the next 2 hours.

  • The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to nomeat For This Useful Post:

    enf (12-01-18),oceanboy (13-01-18),xapi (12-01-18)

  • #10
    Super Moderator
    enf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    64
    Posts
    11,787
    Thanks
    9,405
    Thanked 13,476 Times in 4,635 Posts
    Rep Power
    4788
    Reputation
    213670

    Default

    Aaaah...the mighty Dremel....
    The fact that there's a highway to hell and a stairway to heaven says a lot about the anticipated traffic flow.

  • The Following User Says Thank You to enf For This Useful Post:

    xapi (12-01-18)

  • #11
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,794
    Thanks
    1,314
    Thanked 1,484 Times in 712 Posts
    Rep Power
    615
    Reputation
    20068

    Default

    For the dumb bastards on this site, what and how does a nut splitter work?
    There is a fine line between "Hobby" and "Madness"

  • #12
    LSemmens
    lsemmens's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rural South OZ
    Posts
    6,333
    Thanks
    4,969
    Thanked 3,307 Times in 1,674 Posts
    Rep Power
    1433
    Reputation
    57400

    Default

    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

  • The Following User Says Thank You to lsemmens For This Useful Post:

    allover (12-01-18)

  • #13
    Senior Member
    fandtm666's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    4,735
    Thanks
    18
    Thanked 102 Times in 55 Posts
    Rep Power
    733
    Reputation
    22687

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by allover View Post
    For the dumb bastards on this site, what and how does a nut splitter work?

  • The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to fandtm666 For This Useful Post:

    allover (12-01-18),ausfun (13-01-18),croozer (13-01-18),dashinson (12-01-18),gulliver (13-01-18),Tiny (12-01-18)

  • #14
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Central Tablelands of NSW
    Age
    75
    Posts
    12,728
    Thanks
    1,160
    Thanked 3,313 Times in 2,238 Posts
    Rep Power
    1489
    Reputation
    47126

    Default

    I take it from your first post that the engine is still in the car and if so, what is where and how much space you have to work in.
    Heating the nuts and not the studs would be preferable although if you got the nuts really warm, engine off and then squirt some icy cold water on one and slip on a socket/spanner onto it and apply the pressure.
    Fingers crossed.
    I stand unequivicably behind everything I say , I just dont ever remember saying it !!

  • The Following User Says Thank You to gordon_s1942 For This Useful Post:

    Tiny (12-01-18)

  • #15
    Crazy Diamond
    Tiny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    58
    Posts
    5,412
    Thanks
    8,913
    Thanked 4,055 Times in 2,123 Posts
    Rep Power
    1494
    Reputation
    61437

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fandtm666 View Post
    That's great, however getting a nut splitter on an exhaust related nut is going to be compromised by space & angle of attack.
    I've always managed with first penetrating oil to break down the oxidisation & then heat & a rattle gun.

    With a small percentage though, the whole stud will come out with nut still seized, then you can decide whether a new stud & nut are worth the effort of separating the old pair that have oxidized themselves together.
    Cheers, Tiny
    "You can lead a person to knowledge, but you can't make them think? If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the problem.
    The information is out there; you just have to let it in."

  • #16
    Crazy Diamond
    Tiny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    58
    Posts
    5,412
    Thanks
    8,913
    Thanked 4,055 Times in 2,123 Posts
    Rep Power
    1494
    Reputation
    61437

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gordon_s1942 View Post
    I take it from your first post that the engine is still in the car and if so, what is where and how much space you have to work in.
    Heating the nuts and not the studs would be preferable although if you got the nuts really warm, engine off and then squirt some icy cold water on one and slip on a socket/spanner onto it and apply the pressure.
    Fingers crossed.
    Interesting thought there gordon, I've been experimenting with a product called Freeze & release which worked really well for me when pulling apart my tractor's slasher transfer gearbox.

    here it is;
    Last edited by Tiny; 12-01-18 at 06:23 PM.
    Cheers, Tiny
    "You can lead a person to knowledge, but you can't make them think? If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the problem.
    The information is out there; you just have to let it in."

  • The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Tiny For This Useful Post:

    nomeat (13-01-18),SS Dave (13-01-18)

  • #17
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Central Tablelands of NSW
    Age
    75
    Posts
    12,728
    Thanks
    1,160
    Thanked 3,313 Times in 2,238 Posts
    Rep Power
    1489
    Reputation
    47126

    Default

    While normally you would heat the nut and cool the stud, in this case that's a bit difficult with the engine still insitu so why not try the other way around ?

    Hey Tiny, what ever works eh???
    There is no one way more right than any of the others that have been suggested, so long as it WORKS !!
    I stand unequivicably behind everything I say , I just dont ever remember saying it !!

  • #18
    LSemmens
    lsemmens's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rural South OZ
    Posts
    6,333
    Thanks
    4,969
    Thanked 3,307 Times in 1,674 Posts
    Rep Power
    1433
    Reputation
    57400

    Default

    I had one that decided to break in the head of an old Falcon many years ago, broke an ezy-out in the stud so the next fix was to drill around the stud, plug the hole and start again. Next time it happened ('nother Fraud) Didn't want to remove the head so just put everything back together and hoped for the best. Worked for a couple of months until the gasket blew out at that spot. A dab of liquid steel across the hole and it was still good, 2 years later when I finally sold the car.
    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

  • #19
    Senior Member
    Rick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Tassi
    Posts
    3,880
    Thanks
    3,791
    Thanked 3,203 Times in 1,422 Posts
    Rep Power
    1174
    Reputation
    47882

    Default

    Have you considered using CRC freeze-off OB? I have used it with great success when undoing manifold bolts, where heat cant be used, its around $30 a can but well worth it



  • The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Rick For This Useful Post:

    lsemmens (14-01-18),SS Dave (13-01-18)

  • #20
    Crazy Diamond
    Tiny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    58
    Posts
    5,412
    Thanks
    8,913
    Thanked 4,055 Times in 2,123 Posts
    Rep Power
    1494
    Reputation
    61437

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick View Post
    Have you considered using CRC freeze-off OB? I have used it with great success when undoing manifold bolts, where heat cant be used, its around $30 a can but well worth it
    Holy crap, $30 a can, you can get the Loctite Freeze & Release I posted above for around $12 a can.
    Cheers, Tiny
    "You can lead a person to knowledge, but you can't make them think? If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the problem.
    The information is out there; you just have to let it in."

  • Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •