Results 1 to 20 of 20

Thread: Removing Seized Nuts

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    oceanboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    14,831
    Thanks
    6,375
    Thanked 7,417 Times in 3,924 Posts
    Rep Power
    3088
    Reputation
    123412

    Default Removing Seized Nuts

    Tomorrow i have to remove some nuts holding an EGR flange and pipe on an exhaust manifold
    I am expecting it to give me some grief, its been on for 360,000 kms.
    I have been spraying the parts for the last week each couple of days with a Penetrating Spray.

    Any other suggestions for this type of job?
    Would it be better to attempt removing the nuts when the engine is warm or cold?

    I remember my grandfather would use the old Penatrene in that small plastic tube.
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!



Look Here ->
  • #2
    Premium Member
    hoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    -30.7719955,121.495211
    Age
    54
    Posts
    5,072
    Thanks
    193
    Thanked 3,089 Times in 1,326 Posts
    Rep Power
    1065
    Reputation
    38510

    Default

    EGR is the work of the Devil........

    i suggest holy water instead of penetrating spray......

    if that doesn't work you may need to heat the nuts with a blow torch....



    Finally got FTTN, 710m line length....

  • The Following User Says Thank You to hoe For This Useful Post:

    oceanboy (11-01-18)

  • #3
    Senior Member

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    14 Wombat Cres, Goanna Heights NSW
    Posts
    1,133
    Thanks
    551
    Thanked 875 Times in 448 Posts
    Rep Power
    411
    Reputation
    15063

    Default

    Yep heat would likely be your best choice if they don't move with the cat's piss, and even then you may find they tear the threads off with them?

    Your other alternative may be to sacrifice the nuts if you can get at them with a die grinder or similar, just take a chunk out of each side and split them with a cold chisel.

    Either way you will probably need to chase the threads with the appropriate die so make sure you have one on hand.

    And apply some Coppercote (or some other heat-resistant anti-seize) to the threads when you put it back together, that stuff is amazing, next time you pull it apart you won't have any trouble whatsoever!

    Andrew

  • #4
    Senior Member
    Rick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Tassi
    Posts
    3,936
    Thanks
    3,871
    Thanked 3,252 Times in 1,440 Posts
    Rep Power
    1199
    Reputation
    48862

    Default

    I use a portable gas torch and if you can a rattle gun, but defs use heat, if your lucky they will come undone, but my luck I always snap the bastards resulting in extra work

  • The Following User Says Thank You to Rick For This Useful Post:

    oceanboy (11-01-18)

  • #5
    Senior Member
    fandtm666's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    4,804
    Thanks
    29
    Thanked 180 Times in 93 Posts
    Rep Power
    770
    Reputation
    24247

    Default

    heat and if it wont move a nut splitter , have had ti use them a few times but life savers


  • The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to fandtm666 For This Useful Post:

    ausfun (13-01-18),enf (12-01-18),FTTP (11-01-18),oceanboy (11-01-18)

  • #6
    Senior Member
    oceanboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    14,831
    Thanks
    6,375
    Thanked 7,417 Times in 3,924 Posts
    Rep Power
    3088
    Reputation
    123412

    Default

    Thanks guys, it might be hard to get flamed heat on there, some rubber hoses near by.

    I'll do my best.
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!

  • #7
    Premium Member
    Skepticist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    858
    Thanks
    262
    Thanked 405 Times in 344 Posts
    Rep Power
    287
    Reputation
    7480

    Default

    Something I tried a while back is a 50/50 mix of acetone and auto transmission fluid which is claimed to be the very best penetrating fluid and it worked fine for me. Needs some hours like overnight to get right into the seized area and a bit of heat, as always, improves the chances of success. The acetone evaporates fairly quickly so waiting for some hours before hitting it with the blowtorch is a good idea.

    Just found the jar I had the mix in out in the shed and all the acetone appears to have evaporated leaving just A/T fluid even in the supposedly sealed jar (been a couple of years I suppose).
    Last edited by Skepticist; 11-01-18 at 02:31 PM.

  • #8
    LSemmens
    lsemmens's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rural South OZ
    Posts
    6,601
    Thanks
    5,359
    Thanked 3,428 Times in 1,752 Posts
    Rep Power
    1493
    Reputation
    59820

    Default

    Rattle gun, Impact Driver, or nut splitter. Most of the time you've then got to drill the stud out of the block and then use Helicoils to fit a new stud. Have fun.
    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

  • The Following User Says Thank You to lsemmens For This Useful Post:

    xapi (12-01-18)

  • #9
    Senior Member
    nomeat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Commonly found in a pantry or the bottom of a fridge, searching for grains, fermented or distilled
    Posts
    3,871
    Thanks
    1,015
    Thanked 1,738 Times in 1,063 Posts
    Rep Power
    819
    Reputation
    28258

    Default

    If the usual soaking with all the magic oils doesn't work, I use a dremel with a fibre reinforced cutting disc to surgically cut and remove the nut and have never damaged a stud.
    Have done that with cross-threaded wheel nuts too, which some smart tyre monkeys with their powerful air rattlers created. Heat doesn't help there.
    There are many tight areas in modern vehicles where I wouldn't suggest a blow torch.
    $$$...Welcome to Australia where corruption is legalized...$$$

    The only group that does not have a lobby is the taxpayer.

  • The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to nomeat For This Useful Post:

    enf (12-01-18),oceanboy (13-01-18),xapi (12-01-18)

  • #10
    Super Moderator
    enf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    64
    Posts
    12,171
    Thanks
    9,859
    Thanked 14,380 Times in 4,862 Posts
    Rep Power
    5166
    Reputation
    231750

    Default

    Aaaah...the mighty Dremel....
    The fact that there's a highway to hell and a stairway to heaven says a lot about the anticipated traffic flow.

  • The Following User Says Thank You to enf For This Useful Post:

    xapi (12-01-18)

  • #11
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,848
    Thanks
    1,344
    Thanked 1,529 Times in 739 Posts
    Rep Power
    637
    Reputation
    20968

    Default

    For the dumb bastards on this site, what and how does a nut splitter work?
    There is a fine line between "Hobby" and "Madness"

  • #12
    LSemmens
    lsemmens's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rural South OZ
    Posts
    6,601
    Thanks
    5,359
    Thanked 3,428 Times in 1,752 Posts
    Rep Power
    1493
    Reputation
    59820

    Default

    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

  • The Following User Says Thank You to lsemmens For This Useful Post:

    allover (12-01-18)

  • #13
    Senior Member
    fandtm666's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    4,804
    Thanks
    29
    Thanked 180 Times in 93 Posts
    Rep Power
    770
    Reputation
    24247

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by allover View Post
    For the dumb bastards on this site, what and how does a nut splitter work?

  • The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to fandtm666 For This Useful Post:

    allover (12-01-18),ausfun (13-01-18),croozer (13-01-18),dashinson (12-01-18),gulliver (13-01-18),Tiny (12-01-18)

  • #14
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Central Tablelands of NSW
    Age
    75
    Posts
    13,052
    Thanks
    1,185
    Thanked 3,446 Times in 2,324 Posts
    Rep Power
    1556
    Reputation
    49786

    Default

    I take it from your first post that the engine is still in the car and if so, what is where and how much space you have to work in.
    Heating the nuts and not the studs would be preferable although if you got the nuts really warm, engine off and then squirt some icy cold water on one and slip on a socket/spanner onto it and apply the pressure.
    Fingers crossed.
    I stand unequivicably behind everything I say , I just dont ever remember saying it !!

  • The Following User Says Thank You to gordon_s1942 For This Useful Post:

    Tiny (12-01-18)

  • #15
    Crazy Diamond
    Tiny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    58
    Posts
    5,538
    Thanks
    9,078
    Thanked 4,198 Times in 2,184 Posts
    Rep Power
    1558
    Reputation
    64297

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fandtm666 View Post
    That's great, however getting a nut splitter on an exhaust related nut is going to be compromised by space & angle of attack.
    I've always managed with first penetrating oil to break down the oxidisation & then heat & a rattle gun.

    With a small percentage though, the whole stud will come out with nut still seized, then you can decide whether a new stud & nut are worth the effort of separating the old pair that have oxidized themselves together.
    Cheers, Tiny
    "You can lead a person to knowledge, but you can't make them think? If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the problem.
    The information is out there; you just have to let it in."

  • #16
    Crazy Diamond
    Tiny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    58
    Posts
    5,538
    Thanks
    9,078
    Thanked 4,198 Times in 2,184 Posts
    Rep Power
    1558
    Reputation
    64297

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gordon_s1942 View Post
    I take it from your first post that the engine is still in the car and if so, what is where and how much space you have to work in.
    Heating the nuts and not the studs would be preferable although if you got the nuts really warm, engine off and then squirt some icy cold water on one and slip on a socket/spanner onto it and apply the pressure.
    Fingers crossed.
    Interesting thought there gordon, I've been experimenting with a product called Freeze & release which worked really well for me when pulling apart my tractor's slasher transfer gearbox.

    here it is;
    Last edited by Tiny; 12-01-18 at 06:23 PM.
    Cheers, Tiny
    "You can lead a person to knowledge, but you can't make them think? If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the problem.
    The information is out there; you just have to let it in."

  • The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Tiny For This Useful Post:

    nomeat (13-01-18),SS Dave (13-01-18)

  • #17
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Central Tablelands of NSW
    Age
    75
    Posts
    13,052
    Thanks
    1,185
    Thanked 3,446 Times in 2,324 Posts
    Rep Power
    1556
    Reputation
    49786

    Default

    While normally you would heat the nut and cool the stud, in this case that's a bit difficult with the engine still insitu so why not try the other way around ?

    Hey Tiny, what ever works eh???
    There is no one way more right than any of the others that have been suggested, so long as it WORKS !!
    I stand unequivicably behind everything I say , I just dont ever remember saying it !!

  • #18
    LSemmens
    lsemmens's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rural South OZ
    Posts
    6,601
    Thanks
    5,359
    Thanked 3,428 Times in 1,752 Posts
    Rep Power
    1493
    Reputation
    59820

    Default

    I had one that decided to break in the head of an old Falcon many years ago, broke an ezy-out in the stud so the next fix was to drill around the stud, plug the hole and start again. Next time it happened ('nother Fraud) Didn't want to remove the head so just put everything back together and hoped for the best. Worked for a couple of months until the gasket blew out at that spot. A dab of liquid steel across the hole and it was still good, 2 years later when I finally sold the car.
    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

  • #19
    Senior Member
    Rick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Tassi
    Posts
    3,936
    Thanks
    3,871
    Thanked 3,252 Times in 1,440 Posts
    Rep Power
    1199
    Reputation
    48862

    Default

    Have you considered using CRC freeze-off OB? I have used it with great success when undoing manifold bolts, where heat cant be used, its around $30 a can but well worth it



  • The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Rick For This Useful Post:

    lsemmens (14-01-18),SS Dave (13-01-18)

  • #20
    Crazy Diamond
    Tiny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    58
    Posts
    5,538
    Thanks
    9,078
    Thanked 4,198 Times in 2,184 Posts
    Rep Power
    1558
    Reputation
    64297

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick View Post
    Have you considered using CRC freeze-off OB? I have used it with great success when undoing manifold bolts, where heat cant be used, its around $30 a can but well worth it
    Holy crap, $30 a can, you can get the Loctite Freeze & Release I posted above for around $12 a can.
    Cheers, Tiny
    "You can lead a person to knowledge, but you can't make them think? If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the problem.
    The information is out there; you just have to let it in."

  • Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •