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Thread: No reversing lights still.Ford AU2

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    Default No reversing lights still.Ford AU2

    Just wondering if the computer would indicate where the fault may be.

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    grab a multi meter and test the reverse switch
    on the gearbox

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    Quote Originally Posted by fandtm666 View Post
    grab a multi meter and test the reverse switch
    on the gearbox
    I bought a new genuine one. Tested for bad connections at lamps & faulty wire from lamps to fuse box.

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    is there power leaving the switch ? if you cant the fault in the harness just run a new wire direct from switch to the lights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VroomVroom View Post
    is there power leaving the switch ? if you cant the fault in the harness just run a new wire direct from switch to the lights.
    I should have put complete info out there. Here's what's happening, after the fuse blow's & is replaced I have reversing lights when stationary.(tested up to 30 minutes) But soon after driving it the fuse blow's. Hence the question will it show up on a diagnostic tool which reads the computer

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    I can't answer if the event gets logged, but from your description of the fault, it sounds like there's a short that's happening with movement.

    Wiring loom, connectors, lamp holders, etc.

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    If the car has a tow pack check the trailer connector Pin 2 Black wire from memory and I don't think the car is new enough for Body electrical faults to be logged only ECU ones.

    Cheers

    SS Dave
    Death smiles at everyone. Grumpy old men smile back.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Dave View Post
    If the car has a tow pack check the trailer connector Pin 2 Black wire from memory and I don't think the car is new enough for Body electrical faults to be logged only ECU ones.

    Cheers

    SS Dave
    Thanks SS Dave. That was was my thought as well tho not certain. I'll check the trailer plug connection.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtv View Post
    I can't answer if the event gets logged, but from your description of the fault, it sounds like there's a short that's happening with movement.

    Wiring loom, connectors, lamp holders, etc.
    I've checked wiring up to the fuse box including lamps by twisting, bumping, pulling from lamp holders etc.

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    In my AU11 Fortura Station Wagon, the trailer lead joins the main cable in the compartment on the drivers side where the Jack and Wheel brace are stowed.

    I know the main cable is under the back seat almost behind the driver from memory before entering the boot so check both the footwell and where it passes under the rear seat.
    In the back its on the floor just under the side lining and above it sits the scissor jack IF its in the bracket correctly.
    To me it looked very easy to impact the cable when replacing the Jack so I take care and check the cable is clear of the jack.
    If that area is ok, then you will have to trace it to the plug, checking for any damage on the wrapping and eventually, the plug itself.

    Also in the wagon is another lead that goes UP into the roof to power the rear windscreen wiper/washer, Number plate and Top Brake lights and the door release central locking.
    Last edited by gordon_s1942; 22-01-18 at 01:15 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by hogwort View Post
    I've checked wiring up to the fuse box including lamps by twisting, bumping, pulling from lamp holders etc.
    Does that mean you've visually checked the entire wiring harness from front to back?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtv View Post
    Does that mean you've visually checked the entire wiring harness from front to back?
    Yes, pulled out the back seat, lifted mouldings up to the fuse box. I'm not able to check from the inhibitor switch to the fuses so the short could be in that wiring. The fuse box looks like it's a sealed unit

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    jump on a Ford forum , might be a common issue and the fix may be an easy one hopefully

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    Quote Originally Posted by hogwort View Post
    I should have put complete info out there. Here's what's happening, after the fuse blow's & is replaced I have reversing lights when stationary.(tested up to 30 minutes) But soon after driving it the fuse blow's. Hence the question will it show up on a diagnostic tool which reads the computer

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    On rereading, its ONLY the fuse for the Reversing Lights that blows?
    If it is, how do you know its blown unless you select Reverse?

    According to my Gregory's Ford Workshop manual, Power is supplied via FUSE number2, BUT in the schematics, it shows the 'Inhibitor Switch A/T' looped around the Reversing switch.
    The wire colour code for both is shown as R/B.
    I know in an automatic you must be in either Park or Neutral for the engine to start, no idea if its even fitted on a Manual.
    I have no idea if this is a single switch for each use or a combined one, (never seen one) or where is mounted (usually on the Gearbox covered in crud) so could it be loose or 'leaking' or whatever??
    Except for the tap for a trailer, there is nothing else connected, according to the diagram anyway.

    The diagram has me confused as I cant see any the wires through the inhibitor switch but there must be because it breaks the circuit to prevent starting the car unless your in Park or Neutral..............
    Last edited by gordon_s1942; 23-01-18 at 01:10 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by gordon_s1942 View Post
    On rereading, its ONLY the fuse for the Reversing Lights that blows?
    If it is, how do you know its blown unless you select Reverse?

    According to my Gregory's Ford Workshop manual, Power is supplied via FUSE number2, BUT in the schematics, it shows the 'Inhibitor Switch A/T' looped around the Reversing switch.
    The wire colour code for both is shown as R/B.
    I know in an automatic you must be in either Park or Neutral for the engine to start, no idea if its even fitted on a Manual.
    I have no idea if this is a single switch for each use or a combined one, (never seen one) or where is mounted (usually on the Gearbox covered in crud) so could it be loose or 'leaking' or whatever??
    Except for the tap for a trailer, there is nothing else connected, according to the diagram anyway.

    The diagram has me confused as I cant see any the wires through the inhibitor switch but there must be because it breaks the circuit to prevent starting the car unless your in Park or Neutral..............
    I hear the fuse pop when driving, yeah in D gear so it may be the trailer connection it that's on the same circuit.

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    I had an EA that done this once.
    Believe it or not it turned out to be minor corrosion in the lamp socket itself.
    A good clean fixed it.

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    Hello hogwart

    If it's blowing the fuse while in drive i don't think it will be any thing at the rear i would pull the fuse and test every thing electrical in the car to see what else is not working as there is properly some thing else on the same circuit.
    More than likely it's a after market accessory.
    Also what size fuse is it blowing??

    Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteOx View Post
    I had an EA that done this once.
    Believe it or not it turned out to be minor corrosion in the lamp socket itself.
    A good clean fixed it.
    Yeah that bloody corrosion, I'm familiar with that problem & it was one of first things I checked, good call White Ox

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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Dave View Post
    Hello hogwart

    If it's blowing the fuse while in drive i don't think it will be any thing at the rear i would pull the fuse and test every thing electrical in the car to see what else is not working as there is properly some thing else on the same circuit.
    More than likely it's a after market accessory.
    Also what size fuse is it blowing??

    Cheers

    SS Dave
    The fuse is a 15A blue colour. Very occasionally the alternator comes on, both on starting & driving. Could be a red herring. There doesn't seem to be other problems thought I'll check. Ta

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    15 amp seems large for reverse lights only. 2x21watt lamps + 100% margin is around 7 amp

    SS Dave

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