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Thread: Fridges

  1. #1
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    Default Fridges

    Hello,, anybody knows about a Westinghouse Aurora Moist Cold Cyclic Defrost, Fridge??? When I got it, second hand, ) it was running,fridge -15/freezer -35, so I got a new therostat, now only the freezer is working, -8C
    Any wiring diagram of the thermo would be helpfull,
    Thanks for your help,
    Gulliver



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  • #2
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    Sorry, seems to have gone to the wrong Tread

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    Sounds like either the evaporator fan is faulty (or maybe intermitent) or the defrost element is open circuit

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fernbay View Post
    Sounds like either the evaporator fan is faulty (or maybe intermitent) or the defrost element is open circuit
    Thanks
    the story is. I got another thermo, only 2 terminals,cut tne heating wire,now got the right thermo, the bottom freezer is getting to about - 8 and the fridge,top, no change,I need a wiring diagram for the thermo as I feel it is not a gas problem

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    Most frost free fridges I’ve seen have only one evaporator in the freezer section and cold air from that section is forced via a duct and fan to the normal part of the fridge. If that’s what you have then you need to make sure the freezer is getting down to the right temperature and if it is look at the operation of the fan that forces the cold air to the normal section and if that’s working for any obstruction in the duct.

    Re thermostats it sounds as if you’re using a generic replacement. Other than pin outs they come in two flavours one intended for the normal part of the fridge and one intended for the freezer. The type required is indicated by where the thermostats capillary tube runs to if it’s in the freezer your replacement also needs to be for the freezer. If you put a thermostat intended for the normal section into a freezer the fridge will most lightly not get cold enough as the range of the thermostat does not allow freezer to chill down to the right temp.

    If the fan etc is ok then you might want to think about getting a genuine part for the thermostat it will cost more but might save a lot of mucking about.

    There was a place in Melbourne that specialized OEM parts in Moorabbin that where really good but I can’t find their name or address at the moment if I do I will post it as they can cross reference your part.

    Lastly lots of fridges have the circuit printed on the back it might pay to have a look behind the fridge if you have not already done so. Normally that will only show the wiring diagram and might not indicate the actual pin numbers on individual parts however.

    Good luck

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    I thought the moist colds were a "normal" fridge not a frost free
    If it has a "plate" in the fridge part that is meant to get cold (but doesnt in your case) and the t/stat is run to it, then I would suggest shes out of gas. A lot of people will sell a fridge when it has lost gas by filling it up and it will seem OK for a week or two. Dad got caught 25 years a go with a freezer, same deal.
    As Sysrat says there should be a diagram on the back for the circuitry.

    EDIT don't ya love how we are Junior members again?? I might have to dye my hair back to black instaed of grey LOL

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    Look, It's a 'cyclic defrost', OK?
    that means it has either a 12 or 24 hour defrost timer.
    It needs to defrost.
    The evaporator is mounted in the freezer section.
    It has a fan that blows air over the evaporator (the cold coil in the freezer)
    that cold air is forced by fan to cycle around the freezer.
    It is also forced through a vent & into the fridge section where the temp is controlled by the amount of air flow. The amount of air flow is controlled by a knob that opens or closes a flap inside the vent.

    What happens is the defrost stops working.
    Usually because of a faulty (open circuit) heater defrost element or a faulty defrost timer (as I said above), or an open circuit (could also be intermittent) evaporator fan.

    If the defrost does not occur, then ice will build up on the evaporator.

    That causes two things to happen.
    1. the block of ice covering the evaporator (that has not been defrosted) grows. That blocks off the vent that allows cold air to flow into the fridge section, so the fridge gets warm.

    2. Ice is an extremely good insulator. The next thing that happens is the evaporator gets covered in a block of ice. Because ice is an insulator, the evaporator can not absorb the heat from the freezer section. This causes the temp of the freezer to rise.

    Some other facts.
    When thermostats fails, by design, they fail in the open condition, not the closed position. If it had a faulty t'stat, I would expect only the fan/light to operate, not the compressor.

    As for loosing gas.... the fridge is a sealed system. If it is low on gas, where did it go? is is possible to have a tiny fracture in the mullion tube that warms the rubber fridge door seals, but unlikely.
    The ozone protection act prevents re-gassing without pressure testing with dry nitrogen & repairing any leaks first. Typically a domestic fridge will not have any service ports to recharge anyway. A Schroeder valve would need to be added to the system after using a bullet valve to reclaim the refrigerant first.

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    Junior Member DMME's Avatar
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    Agree with 99% of what you say Fernbay , BUT Sealed systems do develop leaks(broken pipes, corrosion betweeen copper and aluminium etc) and the "bullet' fitting can be procured and used by unscrupulous people to "regas" the system.
    I did my electrical apprenticeship at "NESCA" in the customer service section and have seen it in the past (long past).
    Cyclic defrost normally is not frost free, it normally has 2 evaporators, one enclosing the freezer and the other a plate in the fridge.
    Generally they make a big song and dance about Frost Free in the name.
    Anyway without starting a Sh#t fight over semantics gulliver really needs to inspect the freezer section and see whether he has an ice block around a radiator type evaporator stopping it working, or a shrinking patch of condensation on the surround type evap.

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    It's just been pointed out to me by oscillator_1 that if it's a cold moist , it will have two evaporators - one for each compartment and the fridge evaporator is often exposed in them
    Most set ups are frost free with a timer as described above, but these operate differently apparently

    I've done some searching, but cant find much other that old dead ebay links

    Can you take a couple of pics of the inside, outside & motor sections so we can see exactly what it is?

    They will probably need to be put on an external host like photobucket as the site is still got a few weeks maintenance ahead of it

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    Thank you all,Fernbay and DMME for your trouble and research.A lot that has been said seem to apply to my fridge,
    It is in my holidayfarm up near Tamworth and hopefully I will go up there again on Australia Day.
    I've printed out all of your tips and shall take some pics of it,if I don't succeed.
    I am glad Austech is back again.Yes I feel like Ciff Richard too,Forever young,already 15 Posts,lol
    Thanks again,and I shall report back.Sorry 10 posts

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    Hmm, maybe we should have a appliances or white goods sub forum? It's only a matter of time till we become the one stop shop for repairing Dishlex again

  • #12
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    Re: The fridge on the Farm,finished up buying a new one.
    BUT, now I have a problem at home.
    Fridge compartment got warm, freezer is down to -32C.
    It's a LG GR-482 SF No Frost Express-cool.
    Fan in the freezer is working but nothing comes down to the fridge compartment,emptied everything out,pulled the plug for 5 hrs,still the same.
    I rung 5 repaires,3 of them wqant touch a LG fridge.
    I remember a Quote a few days ago about LG,No good.
    Any help would be appreciated as I had to move my beer out of the barfridge to store the essentials.
    Thanks.

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    These frost free units usually work by pushing cold air from the freezer to the compartment by a fan, baffles and duct work. I would be first checking to make sure the duct work is clear of obstruction (like beans, peas etc) and that the fan is actually pulling the air down into the cabinet. The fan in the freezer is more likely to be just a circulating one.

  • The Following User Says Thank You to olfella For This Useful Post:

    gulliver (15-07-12)

  • #14
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    Thanks.The fan in the freezer is working,the duct is clear.Is there a second fan in the fridgecompartment?
    I'll pull it apart again and have another look.

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