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Thread: Professional sat install advice

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    Senior Member oyama's Avatar
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    Default Professional sat install advice

    Hi All,
    I have a little problem mate has asked me to install satellite dish dual lnb. Problem is how in the hell do i run cable in brick veneer do i run cable outside the wall using conduit or inside both sounds ugly???

    Was thinking of using a diplexer for TV/Sat but he want to outlets

    have done many double brick this has got me beat. hence needing professional advice.

    on another note what's the norm for cable run from sat to the outlet leaving couple of meters spare would lets say 10m be enough obviously single story

    Sorry ppl forgot to one important thing horizontal and vertical studs

    Cheers
    Last edited by oyama; 08-10-09 at 12:04 PM. Reason: Misleading



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    Wink Cable runs.

    Quote Originally Posted by oyama View Post
    Hi All,
    I have a little problem mate has asked me to install satellite dish dual lnb. Problem is how in the hell do i run cable in brick veneer do i run cable outside the wall using conduit or inside both sounds ugly????

    Was thinking of using a diplexer for TV/Sat but he want to outlets

    have done many double brick this has got me beat. hence needing professional advice.

    on another note what's the norm for cable run from sat to the outlet leaving couple of meters spare would lets say 10m be enough obviously single story

    Cheers
    G'Day Cobber,
    I'm not a pro, but perhaps a couple of suggestions.
    Clarify whether you mean a dual output LNB or a twin/dual out. The second requires two cables. Either way you could use the diplexer on one for the Terrestrial. You can split the Sat/TV at the outlet or under floor.
    Running under floor with the outlets on the skirting board may be easier.
    As for the length of cable, why not buy a 50 metre roll, trimmer, crimper and F6 connectors. Always handy to have and works out a hell of a lot cheaper in the long run. Also the feed holes can be smaller by fitting the F6s after feeding through.
    Others may have more suggestions, but that's a start for you to consider.

    Kindest Regards, " The Druid ".



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    Senior Member oyama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer4life View Post
    G'Day Cobber,
    I'm not a pro, but perhaps a couple of suggestions.
    Clarify whether you mean a dual output LNB or a twin/dual out. The second requires two cables. Either way you could use the diplexer on one for the Terrestrial. You can split the Sat/TV at the outlet or under floor.
    Running under floor with the outlets on the skirting board may be easier.
    As for the length of cable, why not buy a 50 metre roll, trimmer, crimper and F6 connectors. Always handy to have and works out a hell of a lot cheaper in the long run. Also the feed holes can be smaller by fitting the F6s after feeding through.
    Others may have more suggestions, but that's a start for you to consider.

    Kindest Regards, " The Druid ".


    Thank again matie always helpful, yes dual output

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    Wink Still a cavity there.

    Quote Originally Posted by oyama View Post
    Hi All,
    I have a little problem mate has asked me to install satellite dish dual lnb. Problem is how in the hell do i run cable in brick veneer do i run cable outside the wall using conduit or inside both sounds ugly????

    Was thinking of using a diplexer for TV/Sat but he want to outlets

    have done many double brick this has got me beat. hence needing professional advice.

    on another note what's the norm for cable run from sat to the outlet leaving couple of meters spare would lets say 10m be enough obviously single story

    Cheers
    You dont have any problems like I.
    Hardiplank constructed house (no cavitys)

    With your brick veneer you should still have a cavity to utilise.
    Cheers Marty

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    Brick veneer is the easiest type of wall to run cable in, as there is a cavity between the brickwork and the frame.

    If you've been able to run cables in double brick previously, brick veneer should be very easy for you.

    Cable length will obviously depend on the distance from the LNB to the wall outlet.

    Up to 30 metres is ok. Ensure you use RG6 Quadshield coax.

    If you can install two separate runs of coax without using diplexers/separators, it would be preferable, as there is an insertion loss using them and especially with satellite, keeping the amount of devices and even joins in a cable run to a minimum will provide the best possible result. eg: use a separate coax for terrestrial FTA.

    I agree that fitting the connectors after running cables makes it much easier, especially getting up/down wall cavities.

    Crimped and compression connectors are far superior to twist-on types.

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    Exactly marty 17, what the hell is he talking about.
    Brick Veneer is a dream job! Cavitys all round.

    You don't get any easier in the whole industry, even easier than double brick as you don't even need a drill.

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    Senior Member oyama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oceanboy View Post
    Exactly marty 17, what the hell is he talking about.
    mmm
    brand new house 2months old, it has (horizontal and vertical studs) not sure on the terms. other side of the house clean cavity no problem.

    no cable will run through, being a new house no cable to be visible

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    With brick veneer, you run the cable in the cavity between the frame and brickwork, not through the frame itself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtv View Post
    With brick veneer, you run the cable in the cavity between the frame and brickwork, not through the frame itself.
    thanks for the tips will check it out over the weekend can you tell I'm a newbie BUT always willing to learn.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oyama View Post
    thanks for the tips will check it out over the weekend can you tell I'm a newbie BUT always willing to learn.
    well i tried again on Saturday no joy 3hr's later had enough, turns out the the builder installed sound deadening insulation because they live next to the main road, they called the tv antenna bloke in on moday and he also failed so no tv on that side of the wall.

    i installed a sat on Sunday for a mate double brick 1.5hrs job done & we where sitting drinking beer for the rest of the day now that's productive.

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    Fact or fiction but I was told where timber framing is used there are 2 ways of getting through the 'Noggins' (horizontal).
    One is to lift the row of tiles above the top plate and drill thru it, then using extenions, drill down and thru the noggin. Then KEEP going down to the bottom plate, PUSH, not drill to the bottom plate.
    Ceilings are 8 feet or 2 metres ? Then cut SMALL hole for a wall plate in the Gyprock and GO-FISH for the drill rod. space between studs is about 450 mm or 16 inches ? Tie a cord on drill end and LIFT carefully.
    Tie cable to end of cord and thread down.
    Before you drill thru the top plate, find the 2 studs and decide where to drill down like 75 mm from one so you can find the rod more easily.
    Now providing you dont electrocute yourself and others, suffer from Vertigo, smash things or do anything else silly, you could drill the hole big enough to insert a piece of conduit down in case you ever need to add in the future.
    And LEAVE the cord (fishing line,whatever that wont rot) in place for RON !!!.
    Some houses there can be a gap between the ceiling and the walls so you may not need to drill the top wall plate.

    The other is the same start but find the noggin from inside the house and CUT a slot (NOT THROUGH the noggin, get your cable down and thru and plaster over the slot in the wall using one of those wall repair kits.
    Again you could insert a piece of conduit for later use
    If its a corrugated roof, tough luck.
    BTW, I dont suggest either of my ideas unless you own the property or are on damn good terms with the owner/landlord.
    Also none of the above methords have been tried by me so if the house falls down or you evicted for malicious damage.....................................
    PS, dont forget to clean up after because even though SHE wants HER TV, the mess made is generaly unacceptable and they will whinge endlessly.
    Last edited by gordon_s1942; 20-10-09 at 04:58 PM.

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    If you have a "yellow tongue"they use on floorboards,and it's single storey,you should be able to do it.Cut the hole for you outlet,push the tongue up along the brickwork,take some tiles off above,that's it.Hope that helps,I've done it.
    That's right, another idea,which I have done,get the Stanley knive and cut the gipprock at each nogging,feed the cable through and patch it up.
    Last edited by gulliver; 20-10-09 at 05:01 PM.

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    are you talking about an external wall of the house or an internal wall between 2 rooms in the house?
    iam a bogan

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    Quote Originally Posted by oyama View Post
    well i tried again on Saturday no joy 3hr's later had enough, turns out the the builder installed sound deadening insulation because they live next to the main road,
    Strange, i thought they use sarking between the brickwork and any insulation to hold the stuff in and provide a water barrier as well as extra insulation.

    You should be able to fit a yellow tongue strip up the wall in the cavity between the sarking and brickwork, sometimes some brickwork mortar can stick out and make it a little difficult.

    What type of sound proofing is it, glass wool, foam batts? Must be something that is water proof.

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    In this state at least (NSW), from what I have seen of housing estates I THINK that the sarking sheet is the minimum requirement on the outside walls, adding batts or other material inside the cavity is I think is up to the builder or home buyer if they are having the house built.
    I am not sure about ceilings, whether they consider the sarking under the roof material is sufficient or ceilings must be done as well.
    I know if I was building I would want insulation put into the cavity apart the sarking.
    And I would insulate interior partition walls too for both sound and climate.

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    I agree with you Gordon, the idea is you should not have a soundproofing/insulator contacting the brick work and the plaster board in case any water inside the cavity should the drawn to the paper covered plasterboard.
    I always assumed the sarking being the bare minimum as an insulator would also be used to keep any sound proofing/insulator off the brickwork.
    Therefore there should be a cavity, even just a membrane between the wall filling and the brickwork.

    Just my thoughts on the matter.
    Last edited by Godzilla; 20-10-09 at 08:28 PM.

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    That's right Godzilla.
    Brick veneer as mentioned by others is one of the easiest walls to retrofit cables in.
    It can be hard though if the panel you want your new cable in is a bracing section.
    Thin ply is nailed usually near corners of the building onto the external side of the studs making it hard to get a cable through to the inside of the wall.

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    Yep, your right there Weirdo, i have it around the front of my place but i found a largish hole through the brace board was needed placed a little higher than the hole in the plaster board to help the yellow tongue work into the cavity.

    Pain in the butt to get the hole high, big enough and work the yellow tongue through.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gordon_s1942 View Post
    I dont suggest either of my ideas unless you own the property or are on damn good terms with the owner/landlord.
    Also none of the above methords have been tried by me so if the house falls down or you evicted for malicious damage.....................................
    I have installed and setup sat in brick veneer before its just this one has pissed me off to no end. with mine i needed to beef up the frame to hold 40" for the plasma and used 60mm pvc tube to hide the cables.




    Oh well always willing to learn, thanks for all the tips guy's

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    Wink Rain can drive through a single brick wall.

    G'Day Cobbers,
    What I have observed.
    Many years ago, on a block of flats in Manly, Sydney, I witnessed driving rain spraying through a single brick wall, on a stairwell access to the roof. I would not have thought it possible, but convinced me that sarking is imperative on a brick veneer. Possibly explains why I have seen feature brick walls painted.

    Kindest Regards, " The Druid ".


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