I know a few people who have foxtel on internal walls, they ran conduit down the wall..
How is it currently all plugged in? Surely the installer hooked it all up and got it working before he left?
I have just had Foxtel IQ intsalled and the installer said I could not have the connection on an internal wall. My Foxtel poit is now on the opposite side of the room to where I what it. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can keep my TV where it is and extend the outlet to the other sie of the room?
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I know a few people who have foxtel on internal walls, they ran conduit down the wall..
How is it currently all plugged in? Surely the installer hooked it all up and got it working before he left?
maybe run a long cable and hide it somehow...
under the carpet?
or along the skirting boards?
Yes you could run Conduit around the walls, or
maybe you could run a cable just under the carpet, (in the corner) around the base of the wall,
to where you want your outlet to be, then install a "box type" wall plate
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if i were u Id call foxtel and tell them they did not install the outlet where you wanted it
I'm all for sticking to foxtel but sometimes its just physically not possible to put a point on an internal wall without making a lot of holes in the gyprock.
Is the house single or double story?. Can you get under the floor?
If it is single story can you get into the roof above the wall where you want the point? Tiled roof or metal?
If its single and you can get into the roof then you should be able to have the point where you want it.
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thanks all for your advice and comment. I decided to move the furniture even though I not all that happy about it.
The problem with installations to internal walls is the horizontal noggings, which in most cases prevent the cable from dropping down to floor level.
It can be very risky drilling through them with extension bits, as you don't know whats under them. There may be power cables, gas or water pipes, telephone, data or other cabling concealed.
Apart from the associated risk, it can also be very time consuming and difficult to access, with tight roof spaces, etc.
If there is under-floor access, then it's much easier to place an outlet anywhere you want.
OSIRUS (06-11-09)
But that's the problem with so many installers. They don't have basic residential construction knowledge to know that noggings are 70mm wide and deliberately offset to one side compared to the 90mm thick stud wall thickness. Unless you're feeding some very thick cabling you shouldn't have any problem with the 20mm gap. Just drill a hole in the top plate and drop a yellow tongue down.
I am a sparky as well as doing TV work and have been in the construction industry long enough to know that this statement is just plain wrong. I know that when I do any building work that I use 90x50mm for noggings turned on it's side so that you have a gap of 40mm to get down an internal wall but I can assure you from bitter experience that this is not the norm and that noggings are the same width as the stud but any sparky or tech worth their money will carry extension sets so they can drill through the nogging.
The trick is to drill three 25mm holes in the top plate, side by side.
One to shine a torch down, the second one to insert the extension set and the third one so that you can see what you are doing.
This will work in most instances but when there is a second row of noggings that is when you strike trouble, however a good tradie will always find a way to do the job.
Sigh, another sparky without a clue......
Sorry, but I do know my residential timber framing design quite well and when I see non-compliant work I would love to strangle the chippie/builder/building surveyor involved.
Sorry but if you did that a competent building surveyor would not approve it. Section 6.2.1.5 of the AS1684.2 standard specifically states that all required noggings must be of a width of no less than 25mm shorter than the stud thickness being used. Hence why reputable builders order 70x35 timber specifically for their noggings.I know that when I do any building work that I use 90x50mm for noggings turned on it's side so that you have a gap of 40mm to get down an internal wall
I have no idea where you got 90x50mm timber from as it isn't a standard timber industry product. The closest you'll get is 90x45mm seasoned timber or 100x50mm unseasoned timber.
Yes, some builders are too cheap and nasty to have adequate supply of 70x35 so they use 90x35mm instead knowing full well that it will make building services work difficult later on.but I can assure you from bitter experience that this is not the norm and that noggings are the same width as the stud
You do realise that when you put a hole or notch in greater than 20mm that you violate the structural integrity of the design? A designer has to compensate for that with either thicker members or much higher grades of timber.The trick is to drill three 25mm holes in the top plate, side by side.
It's not an issue these days for internal walls as they aren't load bearing if a common truss framed roof is used, but that hasn't stopped stupid sparkies without a clue turning timber members into swiss cheese with so many holes that there is hardly any timber left!
Last edited by satdancer; 06-11-09 at 03:46 PM.
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