Reply With QuoteWhat makes you think its not charging, is the alternator light on, on the dash?
Or is the light off but the battery not holding charge to crank over?
VT No Charging
I have a VT v6 thats not charging.
I took it to the auto elec and he said the alternator is rooted, and he didn't have one, So he was going to rebuild my one the next week. But I got a new one in the mean time and put it on and its still not charging.
Anyone had this problem before and know what the problem could be ?
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What makes you think its not charging, is the alternator light on, on the dash?
Or is the light off but the battery not holding charge to crank over?
Light is on in the dash and I have check with multimeter 11-12v
Check fusible links between alternator and battery .
Anyone used jumper leads lately and created a bit of smoke and sparks .
Originally Posted by pieces
NO its been running fine up to when the light come on
Have a close look at the wiring that plugs into the alternator and follow it.
They are known to burn out when you have a bad alternator or battery.
Check the wires for damage and continuance with a multimeter.
Start the car and check the voltage on the alternators output terminal, check it at idle and at 2000 rpm.
Also check for the same results at the battery.
My money is on burnt/broken wiring. (Edit if your new alternator is not also fried.)
Last edited by Godzilla; 04-02-10 at 09:18 PM.
is there a way to test the alternator to see if its OK ?
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bzz7P3qNHcE]YouTube - How to Test Alternator Voltage Output (AutoUpkeep.com)[/ame]
My suggestion is to repeat the test in the clip also directly at the output terminal at the alternator in case you have a broken or shorted wire as i suggested earlier.
Did the new alternator come with a new regulator or did you use the existing regualtor?
Yep I done that today its was only 11-12v at the battery and the same at the out let terminal on the alt (with car running)
came with a new one,, I also took it out to see if there was anything wrong with it all looked good, I had a look at the old one too can't see any problems with it..
thinking I just wasted my money on a new alt
Last edited by DND; 04-02-10 at 09:55 PM.
I'd be looking into the fusible link (70Amp) and cable contact points.
Last edited by intelliGEORGE; 04-02-10 at 10:04 PM.
Back to checking for continuance in the wiring, damaged, burnt wires, blown fuses etc.
Did you check directly at the alternator output and not at the battery as i mentioned also?
The whole idea is it will prove if the fuse is blown or a wire is not active.
It seems in some models the idiot light doesnt always work as you think.
My AU didnt when the alternator died. The first thing I knew was the radio turned itself off with the engine running as we were driving.
Because the battery was so low, the computer went into 'save' or 'Limp' mode and turned off the radio and the blinkers, never tried the horn.
Apart from using a Voltage meter which is more readable, fire up the engine, turn on everything electrical, go to high Beam and Rev the engine to see if the lights brighten.
If they dont, it aint charging.
With a voltage meter on the battery, engine at idle it will flick as you turn ON things like the fan, A/C as it adjust to the load.
Then with HIGH beam on, engine at idle, it most likely will read under 11/12V but SHOULD increase as the engine is Rev'd up to around 13/14V.
If it dont, then you have a problem.
Many years ago I had a Morris 1500 with a seperate diode pack on the bulkhead. The Diode that controlled the dash indicator light blew and for over a year I drove the car with the red light blazing away but the battery still charged. It had nothing to do with the charging circuit so I never replaced it.
Sounds like fusible link heres a couple of checks to do.
Pull plug from alternator it has 2 wires white and brown.(regulator wires)
White wire should be live 12v all the time (fusible linked )
Brown wire is warning light powers up with key on through dash light warning.
The last wire b+ ( large red wire on back of alternator should be live all the time ).
Cheers and good luck
Blade
White wire is 12v
Brown is 0v untill you turn car on
B+ 12v
then I turn the car on and turned fans highbream on and the volts dropped to 8 on the battery.
I done a check on the wires all look good what I could see, most of it is covered by hard plastic cover.
Also done oms test all good but for brown wire (but it is running to dash light)
This new alternator you you put in .Is it new or new as a re-co one ????
Is it the correct alternator plug might be the same.
Also check the engine is earthed to the battery .
Make up a test light using a headlight globe ( draws heaps of current ) and check. Put one lead on the B+ on the alternator and the other on its casing .
Lamp should be glowing brightly depending on the charge left in the battery Now with the above connected
Put the multimeter's leads across the battery take note / then across the B+ and casing on the alternator and take note of the difference.
Well I took it to an auto elecO today he said its stuffed, and had to put the rectifier and regulator from my old alternator in it to get it going $182 later its working
Godzilla (05-02-10)
So who is selling DOA "new" alternators to unsuspecting punters?
Got another problem,
I had to drive down to old bar yesterday in the rain its about 1hour away, had the wipers, headlights and A/C on. Got down there and stopped on the side of the road Idling for about 20-30min then turned car of for 5 mins then when to start it again and the sucker was flat,
Anyway I got a jump start and drove it home (no lights or a/c on) pulled in to the shed, I put the tester on the battery (while it was still running) and its was 13v with the car off the battery voltage is 12v.
I'll have a better look at it today
So the question is what Voltage should it be when under load ?
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