Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 22

Thread: Anyone do Sharp microwaves here - with display issues.

  1. #1
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,077
    Thanks
    632
    Thanked 306 Times in 180 Posts
    Rep Power
    300
    Reputation
    4620

    Default Anyone do Sharp microwaves here - with display issues.

    Well, i bought a pristine looking great Sharp Carousel Microwave the other day. Model number R-480E(K) Nice black unit.

    Did some work for a lady and was told "brand new, never been used..".
    And if you opened it, it looked never used. So "ok" i said, "I'll knock you off a few smakaroos..".

    Had the manual and looked damn new to me. In fact, the glass plate and the insides looked as though it was a newbie. Not a scratch mark anywhere!

    Got it home. Told the wife "You have to thank me tonight for this" [mens talk ladies].
    So i plugged it in thinking my night had truely arrived with the saying 'every dog has his day' came to mind,,, and voilia!
    My wife says "I can't read the numbers..."!

    "What do you mean woman"?

    And as i poked my head around to the front of the Microwave, i saw death and destruction for my night....

    Yep! for sure, the LED panel is displaying its digits something like out of Alien...Damn!
    My wife was looking at me, with that "oh men" look!

    So how much is it going to cost and is it worth living - or hoping for...?

    From what i can tell, the buttons when pressed give out the beeps accordingly, the turntable turns and it heats the contents etc.

    Thanks, from the lonely cold man,,,,
    If anyone helps me, i'll send some photo's of my celebration night. But please be advised that she is not a young Shelia ,amd, OWCh! , Okk Damn I ddn't meanit,, ow,, isorry di crapp!....
    Last edited by GT250; 31-05-10 at 08:13 PM.



Look Here ->
  • #2
    Senior Member
    iwacelect's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    2,581
    Thanks
    858
    Thanked 663 Times in 434 Posts
    Rep Power
    367
    Reputation
    4190

    Default

    ohhh GT250, you should know to ask here before blowing all those moths in the wallet, mate it's gunna cost a fortune to replace the cpu pcb, cause thats what it'll be, now that you all F**K

    mate it most often cuased by a shit connection between the lcd display glass and the cpu pcb...

    got any idea about microwave oven before we start....

    cause i'm going to tell you to remove the cover and if your not quilified then i cant go to in depth.

    we used to take the display pcb out and using a heat gun and a pressure plate re-make the connection between the cpu pcb and lcd glass, mind you "NOT TOO MUCH HEAT AND NOT TOO MUCH PRESSURE" would be a good warning!

    all of that series had the same issue. the r-350s -480s all of the r series are/were crap for that very problem, I'm not a sharp agent at the moment but worked for one when it was a new model, for a new one (cpu pcb) back then (5 years +) it was > $200
    When I explained to the guy what avatar I wanted, that wasn't what I meant!

  • #3
    Senior Member
    best4less's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    7,684
    Thanks
    3,487
    Thanked 2,207 Times in 1,132 Posts
    Rep Power
    757
    Reputation
    15165

    Default

    Yep bloody fortune wouldn't botherr fixing her But like iwacelect said heat and presure can fix it SOMETIMES LOL

    But saying that if you are a straight forward micro user like heat for 5 minutes i would tell the boss to hit the minute button five times and push start LOL
    When you do things right, people won't be sure that you have done anything at all

  • #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    146
    Thanks
    67
    Thanked 21 Times in 10 Posts
    Rep Power
    201
    Reputation
    153

    Default

    Fixed a similar model with the same issue. As iwaselect mentioned, condensation destroys the connection between the wiring film and the lcd.

    Mine is a very primitive fix but it works and is still going strong after about 2 years.

  • #5
    Senior Member
    iwacelect's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    2,581
    Thanks
    858
    Thanked 663 Times in 434 Posts
    Rep Power
    367
    Reputation
    4190

    Default

    what method did you use krusty?
    When I explained to the guy what avatar I wanted, that wasn't what I meant!

  • #6
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,077
    Thanks
    632
    Thanked 306 Times in 180 Posts
    Rep Power
    300
    Reputation
    4620

    Default

    Thanks guys for the replies and iwacelect.
    Humm, do i know about MW's? Well no.

    Iwacelect, you mean the actual outside metal box case, i hope so Doh! Well, yeah! Or you mean 'another', internal case?

    I understand what you are talking about with the PCB, heat and pressure etc.

    As i haven't actually paid any cash for it, i'm prepared to have a go.
    I'll see if Krusty comes back with how he did his before i get the old screwdriver out.

    Can i 'pop' the front panel off, or have to get to it from the inside?
    Guess, i should just ask the obvious - how do i get to the display pcb?
    Is a hair dryer going to be good enough?

    Cheers.

  • #7
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,077
    Thanks
    632
    Thanked 306 Times in 180 Posts
    Rep Power
    300
    Reputation
    4620

    Default

    Ok Guys, have got the LCD display out of the MW. And i'm looking at the green PCB with a big black IC blob and a a zillion R's and C's on it. - connected via two ribbon cables - and abig fat ribbon to teh actual LCD panel..

    The PCB has BV302-2 and FA685DR.

    The actual LCD panel has some yellow and orange fluro tags on the sides and the rear of the LCD panel has a pale green backing....

    Could i kindly ask, what am i supposed to 'heat up'?

    Is it the actual LCD panel by itself, as in heat it through the back (pale green area)? Can't see me heatignthe actual LCD front face myself.

    If Krusty would tell all (i find it frustrating why someone posts a reply about "how i did it my way and it works great), yet doesn't help out by simply saying exactly how it was done.

    It's not paramount i get it repaired, but i guess it's one of those challenges and that "yeah!" feeling at the end...

    Anyway. the MW is all opened up. I have the LCD panel to fiddle and would like some tips on what needs actually heating and how to get it working ok, if possible.

    Thanks.

  • #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Port Lincoln
    Posts
    657
    Thanks
    145
    Thanked 362 Times in 179 Posts
    Rep Power
    263
    Reputation
    2205

    Default

    have a read here


  • The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Mysterex For This Useful Post:

    GT250 (02-06-10),weirdo (01-06-10)

  • #9
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,077
    Thanks
    632
    Thanked 306 Times in 180 Posts
    Rep Power
    300
    Reputation
    4620

    Default

    Well, thanks for the link Mysterex.

    Not sure if that's out of my league that machine LOL!!

    iwacelect, could you or Krusty let me know (besides the heat gun bit), how you apply pressure?

    Did you use a pad of some sort, fingers, a small paint scrapper and draw the blade across - any particular way or what??

    A credit card?

    Com'n i'm beggin here

  • #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Port Lincoln
    Posts
    657
    Thanks
    145
    Thanked 362 Times in 179 Posts
    Rep Power
    263
    Reputation
    2205

    Default

    In the past i've hobbled together a couple of improvised rework hot bars with pretty good success rates

    the first is made from a hair straightener element with bypassed temperature cutout and a small block of lead on top to apply the pressure

    the second is made from an old soldering iron and a 10cm length of 10mm copper pipe squashed flat in a vice with the soldering iron tip inside and then the side filed flat to give an even heated surface, i needed to add a layer of glass fibre insulating tape to stop the cable melting and sticking to the copper bar

    the hard part is trying to apply an even pressure and heat for a set amount of time...

  • #11
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    60
    Thanks
    23
    Thanked 20 Times in 15 Posts
    Rep Power
    195
    Reputation
    99

    Default

    I feel your pain GT250,

    back in the day we just replaced them under warranty, very expensive.

    Have had some success with a bar on the end of a soldering Iron, see the picture.
    It applies heat and pressure evenly over the ribbon cables area.

    Good Luck



    Last edited by droid; 02-06-10 at 03:05 PM.

  • The Following User Says Thank You to droid For This Useful Post:

    GT250 (04-06-10)

  • #12
    Senior Member
    iwacelect's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    2,581
    Thanks
    858
    Thanked 663 Times in 434 Posts
    Rep Power
    367
    Reputation
    4190

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by droid View Post
    I feel your pain GT250,

    back in the day we just replaced them under warranty, very expensive.

    Have had some success with a bar on the end of a soldering Iron, see the picture.
    It applies heat and pressure evenly over the ribbon cables area.

    Good Luck
    those pix are almost exactly what we made back then, it was 6 years ago.

    nice link mysterex, those things are worth a fortune, I've had some expierence with an ersa table that was fun, but at > $60k i wont be getting one soon!

    gt250, try knock up something like driod post pix of, and your heating the cable where it connects between the lcd to the pcb with "black blob".
    Last edited by iwacelect; 02-06-10 at 04:30 PM.
    When I explained to the guy what avatar I wanted, that wasn't what I meant!

  • The Following User Says Thank You to iwacelect For This Useful Post:

    GT250 (03-06-10)

  • #13
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,077
    Thanks
    632
    Thanked 306 Times in 180 Posts
    Rep Power
    300
    Reputation
    4620

    Default

    Thanks iwacelect - Jeeze, wish you had a easier name to type out

    Ok, i can see where i have apply the heat and pressure. Nice to see the picture of the soldering iron 'attachment'.

    But i don't have - and it's not going to be really feasible (plus i don't have workshop you guys might have to do this stuff), for me to go that far, just for a MW.

    Guess, i'm sick of out wasteful society and the MW is brand new. not a speck of dust anywhere and our MW has blown a globe nearly once a month...
    So it was just a shame, this might be out of my envelope to fix it.

    I'm talking to a mate over the weekend and see if he could think about nobbling up something.
    My misses hates me for getting involved in things like this. But she won't complain if i get it right!
    And if i get it right, i might get it - all right! Get it?

    Anyhow, here's the screen and i'll post back on the weekend on how it goes...

    Last edited by GT250; 03-06-10 at 07:04 PM.

  • #14
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    146
    Thanks
    67
    Thanked 21 Times in 10 Posts
    Rep Power
    201
    Reputation
    153

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by iwacelect View Post
    what method did you use krusty?
    Ummmm... a small piece of plastic with a small amount spongy packing sandwiched against the wiring and the LCD. The plastic is the screwed into the LCD backlight housing.

    It looked like shite but it did the trick......

  • #15
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    146
    Thanks
    67
    Thanked 21 Times in 10 Posts
    Rep Power
    201
    Reputation
    153

    Default

    Can you get a pic of the back of the actual housing?

    I'm not sure you could use my method with the PCB mounting to the plastic housing.

  • #16
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,077
    Thanks
    632
    Thanked 306 Times in 180 Posts
    Rep Power
    300
    Reputation
    4620

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Krustyone View Post
    Can you get a pic of the back of the actual housing?

    I'm not sure you could use my method with the PCB mounting to the plastic housing.
    Yeah, it's all plastic. Not a screw or any metal insight oneh LCD panel housing.

    I was thinking of using a normal iron, one of the mini ones and use tin foil as some sort of shield/insulator.
    Anyway, my mate is (hopefully), churning this over in his brain for the weekend.
    Cheers.

  • #17
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,077
    Thanks
    632
    Thanked 306 Times in 180 Posts
    Rep Power
    300
    Reputation
    4620

    Default

    Well, not to state the "bleedin obvious!", my mate chugs up and has a look - armed with his new Ozito Heat Gun... He looks at the lower brown PCB board in just a passing gaze, points and says "What's that"?

    I look and can see an area that looks very suspicously overheated... I get a slap on the head for stating this back to him!

    So i'm posting the pics to ask if any of you experts think that this might be the issue and not the lcd panel cable itself. Later on i explain why it might not be the cable.







    We hooked up the panel and pressed pretty hard on the cable to LCD connection and whilst we saw a few brief digit segments light up and disappeared, we couldn't get the digits to 'dance' around at all really.
    The LCD screen remained virtually blank.

    As Krusty said, he just applied packing and got away with it. I was pressing with thumb and nail fairly hard, with next to nothing difference.

    What do you think then about the 'burnt' area? I've yet to measure the R's but not sure if i should try and grab one of those Q1's... or if this 'dark' area is "normal' on this PCB?

    Cheers.
    Last edited by GT250; 05-06-10 at 04:52 PM.

  • #18
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,077
    Thanks
    632
    Thanked 306 Times in 180 Posts
    Rep Power
    300
    Reputation
    4620

    Default

    Humm, well the R's and Q's seem to be ok.
    Funny thing, if anyone can confirm this for me: There are two cutouts in the PCB directly under R1 and R2 - where the darkened area is.

    Am i correct that this area is meant to get hot and these cut outs are for air flow?

    I can post a pic if anyone wants more clarication.
    Thanks.

  • #19
    Senior Member
    mickstv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Age
    51
    Posts
    4,173
    Thanks
    2,225
    Thanked 2,404 Times in 1,392 Posts
    Rep Power
    681
    Reputation
    18426

    Default

    Hi GT250, The components in that darkened area are the regulator circuit for the processor ic which connects to the lcd module. Most likely the pwb has just discoloured due to the heat generated by the circuit. The fault will still be the display loom.

    Have replace heaps of these CPU units in lots of different models over the last 4-5 years.

    Mickstv

  • The Following User Says Thank You to mickstv For This Useful Post:

    GT250 (07-06-10)

  • #20
    Senior Member
    iwacelect's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    2,581
    Thanks
    858
    Thanked 663 Times in 434 Posts
    Rep Power
    367
    Reputation
    4190

    Default

    gt250, if you.ve got the manual check the value and the regulation of zd1, looks like it's a reference for q1's base, could check the voltage on both the collector and emitter, it could be dropping quite alot of energy across that transistor which will give off alot of heat, hence the dark patch
    When I explained to the guy what avatar I wanted, that wasn't what I meant!

  • The Following User Says Thank You to iwacelect For This Useful Post:

    GT250 (07-06-10)

  • Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

    Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •