I wish my heaters worked, mine failed to heat, but the LCD still worked, almost the opposite to the above.
Thanks for reminding me what else needs to be tossed in the Skip Bin today.... see ya Nobo!
Maybe there are differences in models. The timer is easily removed by depressing the plastic clips and lifting up. Very obvious when you look at it. Had no problem seeing the battery fitted to PCB. If it's old it will have leaked and F-d the board maybe. You will see it's values then. I soldered a NiCad type battery on fly leads. Stays charged for at least a year. All connections to the 240V wiring and relay need to be clean and tight and perfect condition. Large current being switched as seen when turning off at night with the flash of light.
Hi
i am in the u/k and have found this Forum.
in the uk Spares are by Creda and it would be nearlY £70 sterling for a new control unit.
I have removed tonight the control unit and hot wired the ac in direct to the Element hence can only switch on of or off (bypasses the on/off switch as well)
Looking at the circuit board on the underneath is a cylindrical tube with two wires connected to X1
the pcb has RA137TE103M2A
ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE PCB IS JUST A BLACK BLOB OF RESIN JUST OVER THE LCD DISPLAY CONNECTORS.
I am assuming the Tubular component is the Nicd battery and it is marked KDS1B
can anyone tell me what the voltage and make/model of Battery that was used on a flylead please.
Regards
Ken
I know it's been a while, but I need to dig this up again. Just got 3x Nobo E4EU panel heaters in with various faults.
One has battery leaked or some other corrosive substance on PCB, and the board is STUFFED at the bottom where the three surface mount transistors are.
The others probably just have bad little NiCd batteries and I can fix those, as the timer control panels are just non-responsive so won't activate the relay and turn the heater on. But spares seemed to have vaporised, no control PCB's available, and the timer control unit are £90! Geesh, they are just the same board as the old HPM power point timers!
Anyway, thinking of chucking it all and replacing it with an external Honeywell Mechanical Room Thermostat, something like a T48xx unit. But there's a LOT of electronics on that board for a thermostat....why? Does it PWM power to the element..is that why they are so efficient? Will there be a problem if I just switch full 240VAC power on/off to the element with an external thermostat? The customer just wants the heater to work (-3Deg here this morning), doesn't care about the timers. They would be happy to just switch it on/off at the wall and set a thermostat. I'll leave the safety fuse in the back panel connected in the circuit of course.
Can anyone comment on that who might be more familiar with these control boards than me? Does an external mechanical thermostat sound like a viable alternative to replacing the unobtainable Control Module PCB?
Last edited by Wiz.au; 20-06-17 at 11:19 AM.
I installed 6 of the Nobo Heater Type: E4EU123 - 097A1X about 10 years ago and all of them had thermostats that failed after about 3 years and there was no way to bypass the electronics and just use the as heaters.. seems ridiculous and I would never buy Nobo again.. seems like many other people have had this problem and yet Nobo doesnt offer a recall or fix... any idea how to fix it..?
ol' boy (23-05-20)
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