Pulley/Belt Assembly

**osci** · 12-06-11, 02:27 PM

Hi All,

Your not going to farking believe what happened just now, I started the car, there was a bit of a backfire, I heard a metal type noise.

When I lifted the bonnet this is what I found?

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and this

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forgot to add this, the most telling!!

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I'm not sure what this what pulley/belt housing is called? I thought it may be the belt tensioner assembly? is this correct?

anyway i can get another for $40 from the wreckers....any advice on this is greatly appreciated, cheers

**osci** · 12-06-11, 03:08 PM

forgot to add this, the most telling

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**Godzilla** · 12-06-11, 03:13 PM

Its your serpentine belt tensioner.

No big problem, the tensioners are available at all Ford wreckers, just make sure your belt was not damaged and when putting it back make sure the belt sits correctly in all the grooves.

Now lets talk about your backfire.....im guessing LPG?

Change your leads to LPG quality ones and get some XR6 plugs in the engine ASAP to minimize backfiring, most times its ignition related.

There is a good chance the backfire triggered your belt problem.

**osci** · 12-06-11, 03:58 PM

Far out GZ, The wreckers just dropped off the part and I now have the belt tensioner in place but I have no idea which way the belt wraps around the 4 or 5 pulleys

I'm certainly not losing sight of the LPG problem & back fire...but I'm buggered if I can work which way it goes around the pulley's?

**bop** · 12-06-11, 04:24 PM

there 'should' be a map under the bonnet.

if not have a look at page 6

Brian

**Godzilla** · 12-06-11, 04:28 PM

From a Ford forum.

Yes as in the post above there is normally a diagram under the bonnet.

Make sure the belt sits on all the pullies correctly, run your hand around them, especially the one on the harmonic balancer and Alternator pulley.

**osci** · 12-06-11, 04:54 PM

Originally Posted by bop

there 'should' be a map under the bonnet.

if not have a look at page 6

Brian

Originally Posted by Godzilla

From a Ford forum.

Yes as in the post above there is normally a diagram under the bonnet.

Make sure the belt sits on all the pullies correctly, run your hand around them, especially the one on the harmonic balancer and Alternator pulley.

I can't thank you two enough, I looked on the bonnet and there the diagram is located, I made doubly sure the belt wasn't damaged and was sitting in the groves correctly, I carefully turned the motor to try and make sure the belt was/is travelling correctly, I then started the engine (sphincter clamped tight) and all seems ok...

**gordon_s1942** · 12-06-11, 11:13 PM

Should I tell him that apart from the tensioner spitting the dummy, that the plastic wheel on the power steering pump can collapse without warning ??
El cheapo wheel but you cant replace it so you up for a new pump.

**osci** · 12-06-11, 11:46 PM

Originally Posted by gordon_s1942

Should I tell him that apart from the tensioner spitting the dummy, that the plastic wheel on the power steering pump can collapse without warning ??
El cheapo wheel but you cant replace it so you up for a new pump.

I did notice that plastic wheel

another job coming up me thinks down the track

**Godzilla** · 12-06-11, 11:49 PM

Plastic fantastic.

Its just as simple to just replace the whole pump and bleed the air out of the steering system.

If memory serves me correctly Gordon is a expert at repairing the leaks in the AU connectors too.

**admin** · 13-06-11, 11:10 AM

Originally Posted by osci

I then started the engine (sphincter clamped tight) and all seems ok...

You dont want one of them to let go !

**Godzilla** · 13-06-11, 11:35 AM

I was more worried that he might post pics of that too.

**gordon_s1942** · 13-06-11, 12:28 PM

Yes Godzilla, I fixed that so and so leak by smashing the rack and crushing the offending hose completely which made me glad I had just put up with the leak and not replaced it earlier.
I still have the unused nipple sitting in the lounge room on a glass tray as a bloody ornament.
Getting a new pressure hose is no problem but try finding the return hose, no one then had any.
I think I eventualy scavanged one from an earlier Ford (1990's?) and 'tailored' it to fit.
Even after getting hit hard enough on the Drivers side front wheel,my fault I didnt give way, it never threw the body out of alignment so when the rack etc was replaced, the wheel alignment has remained true after some 12 months.

One thing I did replace though was the wheel bearing which appeared to have taken the full brunt of the impact, there was a bit of movement in it when compared to the new one but I feel it would have lasted for quite some time but I didnt want to take the risk.
The hardest part was finding a 35/36? mm socket and I just reused the same torsion nut again, so far so good.

**fandtm666** · 24-10-11, 06:57 PM

well this thread has come in handy it helped and even more so with godzila's help

BUT

yep BUt like everything i touch these days i started the car and all good then all of a sudden BANG

turned car off and had a look and the fkn pully on the water pump had come off so now i am of to get a new water pump tomorrow and replace that as well.

I HATE CARS

**Godzilla** · 25-10-11, 09:16 PM

On a side note with Diavalos problem, in case someone else hits it, the water pump pullies are plastic and a press fit, you can buy the pulley separately however to fit it correctly you need to remove the pump and press the new one back on, rather than try to hammer it on near the radiator while the water pump is still fitted.

Water pumps are sold new without the pullies fitted, however most aftermarket manufacturers offer a option that costs a little more with the pulley fitted already on, you need to ask this while buying.

As an example a new pump from ford comes without the pulley pressed on, they will sell you the pulley separately but assume you will be using your old one which needs a pulley kit to be removed.

Pretty much a head fvck.