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Thread: NX12 and remote control panels =

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    Default NX12 and remote control panels =

    Hello guys,

    Just a query. We have moved into a new property and have an NX12 with remote controls, the remotes are worn and one has stopped working, they are an old NX304 remote alarming unit. I have downloaded the instructions and where the 2 button one will pair to the receiver, the 4 button one will not (battery ok)

    I have decided to bin the plastic worn ones and buy this new remote receiver and 2 transmitters called the Activor Long Range 4 Button Remote Control Kit for NX systems. These metallic framed remotes look nice

    I am an electronics engineer by trade so competent, my query is I do I need to just connect the wires from the receiver and learn the remotes or is there programming to be done on the NX12 to accept the new receiver? I am also considering running a cable to the garage operator so I can use a digital output for the received to open the door.

    Also I have purchased a few extra glass break sensors, I was going to use them in parallel will existing zones as almost at zone capacity. I cant see a problem with this as the only disadvantage is a faulty sensor in time will be harder to diagnose if a few are common up on a single zone, but the glass breaks do have a latched led indicator on the unit so I can see if they caused the fault. I have also checked adequate 12VDC power for these additional few sensors.

    Thanks

    Matt




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    Regarding the new remote kit, the remotes should aleady be learned to the receiver. What you will need to do is force enrol the device on the bus once you've connected it appropriately. You'll require the installer code to do so, or default the entire system and program from scratch.

    *8 [INSTALLER CODE] 0# 915# {wait for beeps} EXIT EXIT

    As for your break glass detectors, almost all security devices are NC meaning if you connect them in parallel, you'll require all devices on that zone to activate before tiggering the zone. Not ideal if someone breaks only one window and you have 3 devices on the same zone. If you must install multiple devices on the one zone, they should be installed in series such that any device activating will trigger the zone.

    That should get you started.

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    Activor remote kits connect directly to the NX BUS ( where codepad is terminated). The wires from Activor remote Red=+ Black= - and Green = Data

    The remotes should already be enrolled into reciever, sometimes you may need to go in then out of program mode to enroll the reciever.

    I would suggest not to parallel devices.

    You can run a Figure 8 cable from garage door motor to activor remote reciever, it has 2 onboard relays that are activated by the 2 bottom button on remotes.

    Best of luck
    Best Regards,
    TechHQ

    Leave positive feedback if you are happy with my response!

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    Being a NX12 it can have 6 zones using Single EOL or Dual EOL Resistors.

    Or it can have 12 Zones with the frist 6 zones using a single 3.74K Single Resistor and the last 6 zones using 6.98K Single Resistor.

    So depending on how many zones you currently have you might be able to use zone doubling.

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    Thank for all your prompt replies. - great community

    Sorry, it was a late night , yes Normally closed so they would need to be in series rather than parallel.

    They are using 11 zones so as new sensors will be in series I will already have the EOL resistor. The original alarm installer had most of the EOL resistors in the control panel, not really End of Line - hope any potential burglars aren't clever enough to strip back insulation and short the cable.. Least I did notice that he did have the resistors in some of the PIRs. that would be EOL for that zone.

    Thanks Bet2Win about the different resistors, I was confused at first as only 6 zones on the circuit board but a 12 zone system. Got the circuit diagram that shows this different resistance to separate 1-6 and 7-12. I did have 1 spare zone and the only problem I found was (unlike the good old days) Dick Smith don't sell resistors these days, in Jaycar the closest I can get to 3.74K is 3.9K - not sure if this will be too far out and don't want false alarms...
    The only 3.74K I can locate is on ebay from the states :|
    Last edited by matt_in_perth; 16-04-12 at 11:24 PM. Reason: additional info

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    The 3K9 should be fine, they have a pretty good tolerance either way

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    Thanks Adrock about the resistor advice.

    The programming (Installer) code is not the default 9713. I have called the installer and they will not give this out over the phone. Want to charge a $200 callout fee (I understand if they need to make a visit they will have to charge for time).

    I think I will reset the unit and program myself, then least I will have control over the settings.

    I assume after a reset most of the function default settings will work, I will set up system time, entry zones (Feature 18 = 1) , partial zones (Feature 18 = 15) the panic zone to (Feature 18 = 26). Change master code, setup user codes etc
    Re-enter my mobile number to call.

    Is there anything else I have to consider thanks

    Matt

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drift View Post
    You'll require the installer code to do so, or default the entire system and program from scratch.
    I assume this is 971300 within 10 seconds of power up - is that correct Drift. Thanks

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    Yes that's correct, but there's a whole lot more you'll need to program than what you've mentioned above. Reporting characteristics including phone numbers, dial attempts, events to report, swinger shutdown. Then theres zone types per zone, various options in F22 and a few other items that require attention. It's not hard once youve done it a few times but one wrong button press without understanding what you've done could see all manor of odd things happen. You could of course default and start again every time thy happens but it gets tedious after a while.
    Last edited by Drift; 17-04-12 at 01:13 PM.

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    ok thanks Drift.
    Anyone know if there is a way to read the setting without a installers code?

    My control panel doesn't have an LCD display. I was looking at the DL900 software if this allows you to read the settings without an installer code. Is the com port (where the keypad connects to) RS232 or do you need some special programming lead?

    Thanks

    Matt

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    No way to do so without the installer code. With no LCD, the data is presented in either binary or segment status depending on the feature number. The software won't allow access without a dongle and even then, you require the download access code which is 8 digits long. The bus is also RS485 with a twist.

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    Just though I would post saying that the transmitters worked ok without the Installer code

    I will be installing the few glass breaks this weekend then think I will get a company to change the zones so all the glass breaks and door switches are partial zones and not the PIRs so we can set at night and the little ones will not set it off

    Do you know if someone like the RAC security will be able to program this if they dont have the installer code or do you think they will have a programmer for the NX/Hill alarm systems? I dont want to go back to the original installer as they really done a poor install and not polite when I called them

    Thanks again

    Matt

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    Glass breaks? Do you have curtains, blinds etc? Do you have reeds on your windows/doors?

    TBH, you're better off with shatterpoints or shock sensors than trying to cover a large number of windows (or even single windows for that matter) with a break glass detector. Yes the work to a degree but the only thing that sets them off is the glass being smashed. Not cracked, smashed. Unless you get dirt cheap units that'll go off everytime someone coughs or sneezes.

    Regards doing your own installation work, unless you're a licenced cabler it's illegal. You'll also likely experience a fair amount of apprehension from most companies you seek assistance from for programming your own installation work. The bigger the company, the less likely they'll help. They've seen it all before and know all too well the sort of problems that they may face when they're on site and would much prefer to have done the job themselves. Not necessarily for the coin, but so they know precisely what's been done.
    Last edited by Drift; 27-04-12 at 08:00 PM.

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    No these are not crap ones, they are GE ShatterPro 3 that are highly rated Industry leader in the states.

    We have a glass panel at the side of the door that is close to footpath and prime target. The whole house is tiled as well that makes glass break ideal.

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