I'm surprised there isn't one already shred.
There must be 1000's of these boards out there.
And what happens to them??
1. Simple part replacement
2. Re Flash the board
Can't be much more that goes on...
It doesn't look like there is much on the door controller to go wrong. A microprocessor, a radio receiver, a few relays and photo-interrupters. If the motor is unplugged, can you hear the relay contacts close when you operate the remote control?
If you can suss out the problem, you might be able to start a business offering exchange boards for $200 each
[EDIT: just re-read the first post - sounds like the motor relay is pulling in reliably]
Last edited by shred; 31-05-14 at 03:39 PM.
I'm surprised there isn't one already shred.
There must be 1000's of these boards out there.
And what happens to them??
1. Simple part replacement
2. Re Flash the board
Can't be much more that goes on...
If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!
did you test the sensors with a multimeter with diode test? compare the readings between the 2 as usually only 1 fails
the other things to check are those smd electrolytic capacitors - have they leaked?
C18, C30, C29 - the smaller the size electro the nastier and more corrosive the electrolyte that leaks from them
run a cotton bud around em and see if there is any yellow/green on the tip or touch the terminals with a hot soldering iron and if it smells like cats piss its leaked
they usually eat through any copper traces or via going under them or close by
Last edited by Mysterex; 31-05-14 at 04:30 PM.
ol' boy (31-05-14),VroomVroom (01-06-14),weirdo (31-05-14)
Visually they looked fine, but i will try what you said. Thank You for the suggestions.
If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!
The problem is a SMD resistor that is too small for it to handle the current over the long term. It just needs to be replaced with a higher wattage (suggest 1w) takes 5 mins to drill 2 new holes and a bit of careful soldering. This is the most common fault with series 7 ATA Control boards. It basically causes the motor to more or less cough, burp and suddenly stop (a totally random event) and you can just hear it make clicking sounds upon attempting to open/close.
The bad resistor is actually open circuited by years of slight overloading causing its toll. The reason you can hear the relays clicking on and a second or so later it clicks off as the SCR is not getting the gate current it needs to fire up hence the controller chip detects this and shuts off the power to prevent further issues - good design. This fault is a very common yet cheap to fix - cost me $0.24 total but 3hrs total troubleshooting including on the phone to ATA.
Oceanboy, How did you end up solving your garage motor problem in the end?
Last edited by SpeaktheTruth; 06-07-17 at 04:08 PM.
The way they probably wanted
Bought a Brand New Garage Door Motor
Yet, i did keep the board out of the failed unit.
The second Garage Door (same motor that failed in the first), is still going strong some 3 years later.
Worst thing now, is our 2 Garage doors now span 2 different technologies, meaning the key fobs are not compatible with each other.
Thank you for posting, i knew it would be an easy fix, but it was outside the scope of my abilities.
If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!
Hi
Saw a post about the faulty SMD resistor problem with the securalift V7 boards.
Mine just recently stopped working and i've faulted it to the board. I tried resoldering all the connections with no luck.
My guess is it's the resistor that has been mentioned by "SpeaktheTruth" on this forum.
I cannot PM due to lack of posts but im hoping someone can help me locate the faulty reistor?
I've attached a photo of the board if anyone could just circle the resistor i can get to replacing it.
Thank you,
Lucas
ol' boy (13-02-18)
Lucas,
I've moved your post here as it's directly related to the post you referred to and it sounds like the same/similar fault.
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