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Thread: Automatic Garage Door - Help pls

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    Default Automatic Garage Door - Help pls

    Not sure if anyone here does work in this field.
    I have a Automatic Technology Model: GDO-7 V1 Garage Door motor and it it just stopped working.



    I pressed the remote as per normal, the motor started, moved the door 1inch (opening) then stop and an audible beep and green flashing LED on the back off the Motor Controller.
    Checked the manual, it said "Obstruction or Jammed Motor".... inspected, cant see either, although it's had to prove as the drive chain is connected to the motor and its soft gears. So i don't want to use force.



    Ripped the covers off the motor and could not see nothing abnormal
    Removed the PC board, it has a fuse mounted on it, which checks out ok.

    At a bit of a loss now, its worked fine for years. Any ideas?
    Last edited by ol' boy; 26-05-14 at 10:36 PM.
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    Default Automatic Garage Door - Help pls

    Take it you've done the obvious and disengaged the motor and manually opened and closed the door to make sure it's not binding anywhere?

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    When was last time you lubed the chain?

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    Yes, the door rolls up and down with complete ease.
    Haven't lubed the chain at all, but a visual inception shows it is lubed (and by touching it)

    The motor did make a very strange noise for 1 second before it stopped, followed by a bit of relay clicking, then the Green flashing LED.

    It could be an overload cut-out, but i'm not sure how to check
    Or worse, the motor died.....
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    Do the motors have a starter capacitor?...maybe it's stuffed.
    Door openers often have nylon gears internally that can also strip out and jam the motor.
    Last edited by mandc; 27-05-14 at 07:31 AM.

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    if they are anything like the B&D Controlladoors motors do like mandc said and have a closer look at the nylon gears
    I've got two stripped ones here in my garage on my 'to do list'
    it might not be obvious at first but it could be jammed
    From memory about $90 for a repair kit
    Disengage the door and try running the motor without load if it still acts the same

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    Tried a "no load" run, same result.
    But i will look more closely.

    I have the identical unit in the next garage bay, so i could swap logic boards over, but i'm scared if its the motor in the defective unit, it may take out the other units logic board if i swap them over as a process of elimination.

    The light comes on and times out when you press the remote or door button on motor itself.
    Just no love with the motor ;(
    Last edited by ol' boy; 27-05-14 at 10:03 AM.
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    Default Re: Automatic Garage Door - Help pls









    I suspect these units are all very similar in construction?
    Anyway, about to disconnect the chain drive completely and see if motor runs.... I'm sure that will totally stuff up all the limit switches.
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    Progress and Outcome

    In short, its the logic board.

    Further info: Apparently after speaking with ATA they have had huge issues with the GDO7 roller door motor.
    You can purchase a replacement logic board for $240 to $300 and replace it.
    Or as they suggest, replace the whole motor for a GDO9 (V2 or V3) for $480 or $350 respectively (V2 has a 5 year warranty, V3 has a 2 year warranty)
    Local ATA rep quoted $500 to supply and install a GD09 V2 and set up door (good value i feel).

    Logic Board here:

    GDO9 v3:

    GDO9 v2:

    But, i'm not completely done yet, i'll check the logic board for dried joints, caps look good.



    Last edited by ol' boy; 28-05-14 at 03:34 PM.
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    Worn Bushes, dirty or worn commutator or the Thermal cut out has operated, I saw one that was inserted inside the armature winding so it didnt take much heat to trip.

    In that one it required replacing and to do so the armature had to be rewound...............I guess the idea was to prevent a fire if the motor got that hot when it failed which it might have without the cut out.
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    Motor runs perfect Gordon.
    Did a board swap, which make the unit work.
    Motor almost bent the mounting hardware its that strong.
    Logic Board it is :-(

    If anyone has any idea what I should look for on the logic board, I'm all ears... I don't even know where to start apart from a general inspection.
    Last edited by ol' boy; 27-05-14 at 09:36 PM.
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    I have just found out, the new GDO9 roller door motors have moved to a different remote control system (PTX-5v2)

    PTX-5v2 is not compatible with PTX-4
    Hence all the after market PTX-4 remotes including the ones we use for the second garage bay, are useless for these new motors
    The PTX-5v2 is also not backwards compatible. Meaning we'd have to keep 2 separate remote units each.

    Ahhhh, nothing is easy. But hopefully a heads up if anyone is in the same situation.

    PTX-4 Compatibility List below.......

    Last edited by ol' boy; 28-05-14 at 02:30 PM.
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    Yeah...when my old ATA crapped its main board it was more economical to get the GDO-9 fitted...It uses a belt not a chain so much quieter but as you say, the old remote was useless. The new motor is great but uses two shitty 12V bulbs to illuminate the garage. I had to replace them with high power LED bulbs to see anything when the door activated.
    Last edited by mandc; 28-05-14 at 03:01 PM.

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    Seems there are 2 GDO-9 models

    GDO-9 Dynamo Gen2
    GDO-9 Enduro Gen2
    Then there are Versions of each, IE: v1, v2, v3.

    The guy yesterday quoted me a GDO-9v2 which had a 5 year warranty and LED bulb?? I think its called the ENDURO? With a Belt Rail.
    The cheaper GDO-9 has a Chain Rail and only a 2 year warranty.
    Although i am confused, as the ATA website shows both models as being a Chain Drive with a Belt Drive as Optional.

    My question is, WHAT HAPPENS TO ALL THESE LOGIC BOARDS!!!

    At $300 a pop for a replacement, what is happening to all the ones that fail? Cos apparently nearly all of them do!
    Landfill? Or is some smart cookie replacing the common failing part and shipping them back out?
    Such a shame.

    I see no sign of refurbished ones, in fact, its hard enough just to find a genuine replacement.

    I guess they just toss the lot and sell new Motors with a warranty.

    If i could find the firmware, i'd re-flash my logic board, as i really cant see much wrong with it.
    Last edited by ol' boy; 28-05-14 at 03:18 PM.
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    Mine uses the belt to go to the garage door...no chain at all. It was installed around 18 mths ago so there has probably been design changes......maybe they found the belt system was crap ...by the way, it is a panel lift double door.

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    Thanks mandc, yes we are section-panel lift here.

    I cant even find a New GDO-7v1 to buy cheap? I cant even find a second hand one.
    And the idea of buying 2 new GDO-9 Enduro's for $1000 just so we can have 1 remote that does both doors is a dam expensive proposition.
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    just a thought , but can you replace just the one unit , then use some sort of 4 channel aftermarket relay board to drive the inputs to both motors?

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    PS1 & PS2 on the back of the PCB - the optical sensors - 1 side has an ir led the other an ir receiver photodiode/phototransistor etc

    firstly check that the sensors aren't blocked with debris - then test em...

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    Quote Originally Posted by VroomVroom View Post
    just a thought , but can you replace just the one unit , then use some sort of 4 channel aftermarket relay board to drive the inputs to both motors?
    Thanks VroomVroom, apparently i can run some cables from the new unit (GDO9) to control the existing unit (GDO7) in the other bay.
    Then control both units with the newer PTX5 remote that come with the GDO9.
    So it is an option.... Still undecided, but its looking like we are about to purchase a replacement logic board for $230.
    Last edited by ol' boy; 31-05-14 at 09:25 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mysterex View Post
    PS1 & PS2 on the back of the PCB - the optical sensors - 1 side has an ir led the other an ir receiver photodiode/phototransistor etc

    firstly check that the sensors aren't blocked with debris - then test em...
    Thanks Mysterex, they seem to be not blocked in anyway (i actually thought they may have been magnetic, so thanks for clearing that up)
    The motor has that 4 pronged paddle wheel that passes through them, perhaps its not close enough anymore?

    The problem does seem to somehow be related to that area of the logic board you mention though.
    Although in saying that, it will not let me manually jog the door UP or DOWN using the + and - keys, its just locked out.
    Last edited by ol' boy; 31-05-14 at 09:29 AM.
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!

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