I'm not familiar with the WH but it sounds similar to a VATS issue, like the PCM isn't getting the appropriate signal from the BCM?
Do you know anyone with a Tech2 who can plug into it?
Andrew
Just wasted 1/2 hour cranking the bloody thing. 6 cyl auto tried both P and N and all the bloody thing does is fire, the bloody engine management kicks in, and, of course, turns the starter motor off and the bloody thing is sitting there looking stupid! Ignition off, try again, exactly the same problem, it fires and then 1/2 second later it cuts out.
Any useful suggestions, I've already considered the alternatives
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I'm not familiar with the WH but it sounds similar to a VATS issue, like the PCM isn't getting the appropriate signal from the BCM?
Do you know anyone with a Tech2 who can plug into it?
Andrew
give the fuel tank a few bangs with a closed fist, sounds like a dodgey fuel pump, also check all battery connections are clean and tight
Last edited by Rick; 25-05-15 at 08:49 PM.
@Bigfella, that might have to be the solution, I live in a small town, so, if the local mechanic doesn't have one, It'll be a 50K tow to someone who does. I'm seriously considering purchasing a cheapie online, but am finding that there are so many variables that may, or may not, work with an Aussie V6.
@Rick; fuel pump is unlikely or it would not keep firing after 1/2 hour of crank and stall. As for Battery connections, Anything specific? If I can still crank after 1/2 hour I'd suspect that those connections are ok.
Have you tried cleaning the metal ring around the ignition barrel? or disconnect + battery terminal for 30 minutes? all worth a try
sounds like fuel pump or vats . next time you try to start it push the unlock button on the remote twice then start the car if it runs let me know and i will explain how to fix it) if not you need to see if the fuel pump is working.
to test if the pumps working the easiest way is get some one to turn the ign on while you listen at the back of the car (you should hear it run and shut off) .
Might be Crank angle sensor , or dead battery in key, but yes try disconnecting battery for 10 mins first .
So does it even start for just a second? (and then cut out)
Anti theft OK?
Spark tested?
Fuel pressure tested?
Once you know which of those 3 are the issue we may be able to narrow it down, fuel pressure look at the fuel pump, spark look at the CAS and immobilizer point to the key or antitheft.
get hold of some Aerostart , spray it down the air intake . if the engine runs on that you know the fault is fuel related.
if not maybe the immobiliser or the coil pack.
From memory I thought the oil pressure sensor was in the fuel pump loop, such that if it didn't 'pressure up' (faulty?) it would kill the pump.
It fires and then cuts out. I'm going to double check the fuel pump but, I suspect that that is ok. It has happened intermittently in the past (doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold) but has finally started and run fine with no other symptoms. This is the first time it has actually not started after a couple of minutes of crank/fire/stop.
Thanks all for suggestions, will try each one and report.
Bloody thing fired first time this morning and has been starting and running properly all morning. I went down to see our local mechanic and his OBDII scan tool will not scan it! But!!!! He has a new one on order that is expected by the end of the week! Hopefully that will work. I will think I've got a new car again as this new one is intended to replace the old one which was only a scan tool and this will also reset BCM sensors. Yippee, no more airbag light!!!!!
I had the same problem with my VT Commodore on and off.Had to ke ep the revs up and other foot on the brake so itwouldn't stall at the lights. Took it to my mechanic and he finaly found 1 coil had a crack and the second one a very weak spark.Reset the fault codes and it's running fine now.
I wish mine were that "simple". Once it's running, it's fine, just getting it to that stage is bloody frustrating.
Problems like this that come and go are bloody hard to track down too, like how can you diagnose something that's now running just fine?
My money would still be on a key > security system issue, did you happen to try it with the other key, or do you only have the one?
Andrew
Try replacing the main and fuel pump relays in the fuse box unde rthe bonnett. I have had a lot of vt in my shop with this kind of fault and it quit often is these relays
Tiny (26-05-15),VroomVroom (26-05-15)
It's been behaving itself for a couple of days. I drive up to town today and it has decided to run rough when it is idling but as soon as it goes under load it behaves. Can't wait for the scanner to arrive.
on my erlier model they replaced the imap and air intake valves[jets] from memory when they fixed the problem
lsemmens (28-05-15)
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