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Thread: Unruly Fridge - SAMSUNG SRS615DP

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    Default Unruly Fridge - SAMSUNG SRS615DP

    My SAMSUNG SRS615DP side by side ice maker fridge is very expensive to replace.

    The compressor switches off after it has reached the set temperature but does not switch on again.
    I have a power meter attached and it reads 35W in this non running state.

    After I disconnect it from mains and reconnect, the fridge boots up and the compressor runs normal at 180W until it reaches the set temperature (freezer -18˚C) then switches off and I have the 35W consumption again. It stays like that the whole night until I cycle the power again.

    The temperature of the compressor's body is about 40˚C after it has been running for an hour, which is normal.

    I am assuming it is stuck trying to run a defrost cycle but the 35W makes no sense.
    The power meter normally reads over 500W when it is defrosting.
    There are no fans running, no humming, totally silent in this state.


    Edit: Samsung apparently uses an Icemaker fill tube heater which could explain the 35W. I have switched off the ice maker and will wait what happens once it has reached the set temp, which I have reduced to it's minimum -14˚C to get a quicker result.
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 29-04-20 at 12:48 PM.
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    Yeah, the little ice maker pipe is hot when the compressor switches off and a defrost cycle starts at about 320W then drops to 35W and stays stuck.

    Turns out that it is wired parallel to the refrigerator heater of all things. I didn't know it had one.
    I thought there was only an evaporator in the freezer with heater and it blows cold air into the fridge section.
    The heater on the fridge side is OC.

    A bit rough is that the compressor then won't start any more if the processor thinks the defrost cycle didn't finish, shitty design, especially if it is only in the fridge section that never reaches 0˚C and would take months to ice up.
    A simple fault code in the display would suffice.
    There are ways to manually defrost and keep the fridge running like it was done 30 years ago.

    For now I replaced the NTC thermistor with a resistor at half the value on the PCB and hopefully trick the CPU until I get around to finding the heater wire, if it is possible at all.
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 29-04-20 at 05:39 PM.
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    Bazinga, a 1 cent resistor saved a $3000 Fridge and two weeks of food.

    The NTC(defrost sensor fridge side) had read 5.95kΩ at +6˚C and I replaced it with a 3.9kΩ resistor(gut instinct) and now the compressor powers up and works like a dream.
    Freezer side defrosts perfectly while there is no heater voltage on the fridge side and the ice maker pipe stays cold, which also gives me piece of mind.
    I don't need ice blocks in winter and there is a bucket of ice in it anyhow.
    I am certain I won't see any ice build up in the fridge side until next summer. By then I will have figured out something with the heater wire.
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 29-04-20 at 10:13 PM.
    Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
    Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
    Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...

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