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Thread: Ford AU11 front wheel bearing replacement

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    Default Ford AU11 front wheel bearing replacement



    I want to replace the drivers side front wheel bearing but how do you remove the Locking Tab??

    The Gregory's doesnt show or mention it at all.
    *********EDIT**********
    I just rang the local Ford dealer and they quoted $35 for it and none in stock !!!
    I only paid $50 for the hub so if its reusable, it will be.

    Avise certainly required here.
    Last edited by gordon_s1942; 10-05-10 at 03:03 PM.
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    Just undo it,there's no locking tab.The spindle is tapered,like the nut on Lasers rear hubs.You have to obtain a new washer nut,cant put the old one just in case it collapses..

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    This is the nut and it still looks like a Locking Tab plus Ford spares when I rang quoted me $35 for it.
    Click on the thumbnail and let me know if you still think thats just a simple nut, also it's approx 30mm + in diameter.
    Last edited by gordon_s1942; 10-05-10 at 06:04 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by gordon_s1942 View Post


    This is the nut and it still looks like a Locking Tab plus Ford spares when I rang quoted me $35 for it.
    Click on the thumbnail and let me know if you still think thats just a simple nut, also it's approx 30mm + in diameter.
    It's an assembly, to be precise a front wheel drive hub and nut. You need a commonly available 36mm front wheel drive nut socket - dont do what half of the first timers do and peel it apart, the cage is very hard to remove after that.

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    You will need a pulley if the hubs bearing is rusted/binding to the hub.
    Sometimes they just pull out without problems, other times they dont.

    Socket size is 36mm (as already mentioned).

    Always replace the washer nut, just like you should use a new cotter pin on the traditional wheel bearing nuts cage.

    Dont forget to torque the nut to specs when tightening it.

    Make sure you give the brake discs a good clean inside where they contact the hub to avoid brake shudder due to the disc not sitting flat against the hub.

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    This isnt a front wheel drive vehicle.
    It's an AU11 Ford station wagon, Sept 2000 build
    This 'socket' you mentioned, it just slips on normaly and undoes the nut with that 'Cage' thing still there??
    And what about putting on again?
    According to Ford, its worth $35 on its own.
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    Yes, slip the socket on and take the nut off.

    Replace it with a new one, its just good practice just like its good practice to use a new cotter pin on traditional hubs.

    When putting it back on use a torque wrench.

    Check your Pm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gordon_s1942 View Post
    This 'socket' you mentioned, it just slips on normaly and undoes the nut with that 'Cage' thing still there??
    Yes.
    I'll post up a photo of the socket I bought so I could do my AU XR8 ute if you like?

    And like it or not the same wheel hub will be a design or part that is use across more than the AU, it's just as likely to fit another ford product of similar weight and age like the mustangs and taurus. Why make three parts when three time as many of one in a production run will do? I'd be fairly sure PBR did this with brake masters and slaves in the 70's and 80's too; ie one casting and then just chuck the boring bit up the guts to get the manufacturers specs for them, they all look alike to me regardless of holden ford or valiant.

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    While I was at Gosford (14/18 May) I managed to get the bearing changed over.Free to as I managed to get a mechanic friend of a relative to do the job.
    The Nut that had so bothered me came off at a lot less pressure than the 304nm (200 foot-lbs) the book claimed it was torqued too.

    The hub only needed a couple of taps to free it from the axle.
    There is lateral movement in the bearings but at 204 Thou and being hit square on I am not surprised.
    There feels to be a slight roughness when the bearing is rotated but I think its not really too bad.
    Unfortunately it has not removed the intermittent clicking that seems to be comming from around that area so I am wondering if the universal joint on top of the steering rack could be doing it.
    Typical process of elimination where clicks,clanks,clonks,squeaks and groans emanate from isnt it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by gordon_s1942 View Post
    While I was at Gosford (14/18 May) I managed to get the bearing changed over.Free to as I managed to get a mechanic friend of a relative to do the job.
    The Nut that had so bothered me came off at a lot less pressure than the 304nm (200 foot-lbs) the book claimed it was torqued too.

    The hub only needed a couple of taps to free it from the axle.
    There is lateral movement in the bearings but at 204 Thou and being hit square on I am not surprised.
    There feels to be a slight roughness when the bearing is rotated but I think its not really too bad.
    Unfortunately it has not removed the intermittent clicking that seems to be comming from around that area so I am wondering if the universal joint on top of the steering rack could be doing it.
    Typical process of elimination where clicks,clanks,clonks,squeaks and groans emanate from isnt it.
    In all my experiences with bearings there is two rules to checking.
    No 1 Bearing rotates freely, no roughness or binding
    No 2 No excessive play in bearing or wear marks.

    Could be ball joint or tie rod end and possibly steering rack.



    Cheers
    Last edited by officemanager; 21-05-10 at 06:16 PM. Reason: typo

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    Quote Originally Posted by gordon_s1942 View Post
    There feels to be a slight roughness when the bearing is rotated but I think its not really too bad.
    Unfortunately it has not removed the intermittent clicking that seems to be comming from around that area so I am wondering if the universal joint on top of the steering rack could be doing it.
    .
    No bearing roughness what so ever should be evident when rotating the hub without the disc rotor or caliper fitted (in case its the pads rubbing on the rotor).

    That clicking sound could still be the wheel bearing or even a stone or pebble caught in your tyre treads, and yes the universal joint for the steering, slop on your steering rack, steering rack being loose on the front end, etc, etc .

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