Hahaha, I love electrical threads.....
Just need to remember the fuses/rcd/breakers are there to protect the house wiring circuits not what is plugged into them.
Last edited by Uncle Fester; 15-02-16 at 11:09 AM.
Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
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bob_m_54 (15-02-16)
Very many years ago after I first moved into this house I had an electric stove fitted and it was 'Hard Wired' in with a 50 amp fuse.
The stove was nothing special with the usual 4 elements on top (spiral, not solid), a Griller and the Oven.
Even though this was all new wiring from meter to stove, the electrician advised not to turn everything on at once.
After replacing three stoves over the next 30 odd years as the elements burnt out because they 'didnt make that type/style' anymore, I went LPG and today the Fuse sits empty (fuse wire removed) and the cable just runs sits under the house.
Many times over the years I have wondered if it could be converted to a 15 Amp line for those kind of appliances but as the 'real need' never sort of occurred, the idea was put into the 'Round~to~it' file for 'Ron'.
My concern with using 15 AMP outlet for a 10 AMP devise is if it developed a fault, would it take longer to blow the Fuse and this could be dangerous?
I stand unequivicably behind everything I say , I just dont ever remember saying it !!
Last edited by sublib25; 15-02-16 at 01:30 PM.
It all depends on the fault.
1 single amp of electricity going along the wrong path can cause a fire. Therefore in essence it does not matter if your 10A device is on a 15, 20 or 32A breaker the 'fuse will not blow'.
On the other hand if we have a short then all three breakers will trip.
My personal view on this is: If it is on an RCD, the likely hood of a fault in an earthed appliance causing it to trip may be higher due to earth leakage before a large fire breaks out .
In case of an oven that is fully out of metal and can not burn, then any small flames inside should be retarded and assuming the earth connection is not damaged, electrocution unlikely.
Burning food is a different story especially if it has a grill but before the flames get to the internal wiring it is probably too late for a breaker to trip.
Last edited by Uncle Fester; 15-02-16 at 03:02 PM.
Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...
Some really funny responses in this thread.
Some are total BS too
Simple answer to the OP's question is NO.
Non Simple answer, can go on for a while
But people should remember, Circuit Breakers are there to protect the house wiring, not whats plugged in to power points etc.
The OP's description does raise a few questions straight off the bat.
A 32Amp Circuit Breaker controlling a 15Amp SPP.
If it is a 32Amp breaker, the wiring must be 6mm (not smaller).....
Thus the whole circuit is rated at 32 Amps, yet the 15Amp pp is not
So.... are we using the 15Amp pp as a physical current limiting device by way of design?
My guess is it's a combined circuit, that also does some electric hotplates as well as the oven, but i may be wrong.
Last edited by ol' boy; 15-02-16 at 07:20 PM.
If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!
Tiny (15-02-16)
.. double post
Last edited by ol' boy; 15-02-16 at 07:09 PM.
If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!
Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...
exactly
If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!
The circuit was installed by a licensed electrician about 10 years ago when the kitchen was installed and I had the board upgraded from ceramic fuses to breakers. It was checked 3 years ago when the board was again upgraded to the current standard when we had solar installed.
It's a dedicated circuit and yes all 10 amp power points are on 20amp breakers.
If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!
My guess is it's a dedicated "Oven Circuit" with 6mm and a 32A fuse or breaker. But only the OP can confirm it anyway.
It seems to be common now that a 15A Power Outlet is used instead of hard wiring the oven in, like they used to be. Ovens usually/often come with a flex lead and a 15A or 10A plug on the end, but the manual will often give directions for removing the flex and hard wiring if desired.
Your 15 amp power point should have a 16 amp Circuit breaker or fuse as does a 10 amp power point circuit so you would be fine to just plug it in and use it. If your 15 amp power point has a 32 amp fuse then the fuse needs to be replaced with the correct size (I would use a C/Breaker).
I am a Victorian A Grade Electrician and Contractor
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