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Thread: 10 amp plug into a 15 amp socket

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    Hahaha, I love electrical threads.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob_m_54 View Post
    My oven 15A outlet has a 32A fuse..
    Just went out and had a look at mine...same. 15A oven plug, but fuse (old wire type) is 32A. At least thats what the insert says, I am no judge of the wire.
    The fact that there's a highway to hell and a stairway to heaven says a lot about the anticipated traffic flow.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob_m_54 View Post
    Hahaha, I love electrical threads.....
    It does bring out the zealots.

    Highly entertaining.
    "The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom." - Issac Asimov

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    Just need to remember the fuses/rcd/breakers are there to protect the house wiring circuits not what is plugged into them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sublib25 View Post
    Just need to remember the fuses/rcd/breakers are there to protect the house wiring circuits not what is plugged into them.
    ... and I thought RCDs were there to protect humans accidentally 'plugged' into them, silly me
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 15-02-16 at 11:09 AM.
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    Very many years ago after I first moved into this house I had an electric stove fitted and it was 'Hard Wired' in with a 50 amp fuse.
    The stove was nothing special with the usual 4 elements on top (spiral, not solid), a Griller and the Oven.
    Even though this was all new wiring from meter to stove, the electrician advised not to turn everything on at once.
    After replacing three stoves over the next 30 odd years as the elements burnt out because they 'didnt make that type/style' anymore, I went LPG and today the Fuse sits empty (fuse wire removed) and the cable just runs sits under the house.
    Many times over the years I have wondered if it could be converted to a 15 Amp line for those kind of appliances but as the 'real need' never sort of occurred, the idea was put into the 'Round~to~it' file for 'Ron'.
    My concern with using 15 AMP outlet for a 10 AMP devise is if it developed a fault, would it take longer to blow the Fuse and this could be dangerous?
    I stand unequivicably behind everything I say , I just dont ever remember saying it !!

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    Default 10 amp plug into a 15 amp socket

    Quote Originally Posted by nomeat View Post
    ... and I thought RCDs were there to protect humans accidentally 'plugged' into them, silly me
    Yes I'm wrong again,
    The RCD prevents stray current to earth.
    I believe everything else to be factual.
    Most breakers are rcd combos nowdays.
    Just trying to explain that fuses/ breakers are to protect the house wiring.
    Last edited by sublib25; 15-02-16 at 01:30 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gordon_s1942 View Post
    My concern with using 15 AMP outlet for a 10 AMP devise is if it developed a fault, would it take longer to blow the Fuse and this could be dangerous?
    It all depends on the fault.
    1 single amp of electricity going along the wrong path can cause a fire. Therefore in essence it does not matter if your 10A device is on a 15, 20 or 32A breaker the 'fuse will not blow'.
    On the other hand if we have a short then all three breakers will trip.

    My personal view on this is: If it is on an RCD, the likely hood of a fault in an earthed appliance causing it to trip may be higher due to earth leakage before a large fire breaks out .
    In case of an oven that is fully out of metal and can not burn, then any small flames inside should be retarded and assuming the earth connection is not damaged, electrocution unlikely.
    Burning food is a different story especially if it has a grill but before the flames get to the internal wiring it is probably too late for a breaker to trip.
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 15-02-16 at 03:02 PM.
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    Some really funny responses in this thread.
    Some are total BS too

    Simple answer to the OP's question is NO.

    Non Simple answer, can go on for a while
    But people should remember, Circuit Breakers are there to protect the house wiring, not whats plugged in to power points etc.
    The OP's description does raise a few questions straight off the bat.

    A 32Amp Circuit Breaker controlling a 15Amp SPP.
    If it is a 32Amp breaker, the wiring must be 6mm (not smaller).....
    Thus the whole circuit is rated at 32 Amps, yet the 15Amp pp is not
    So.... are we using the 15Amp pp as a physical current limiting device by way of design?

    My guess is it's a combined circuit, that also does some electric hotplates as well as the oven, but i may be wrong.
    Last edited by ol' boy; 15-02-16 at 07:20 PM.
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    .. double post
    Last edited by ol' boy; 15-02-16 at 07:09 PM.
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!

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    Quote Originally Posted by oceanboy View Post
    S
    Thus the whole circuit is rated at 32 Amps, yet the 15Amp pp is not
    So.... are we using the 15Amp pp as a physical current limiting device by way of design?
    ...but don't we do the same situation when we have 10A socket outlets on 20A circuits, as found in many domestic installations?
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    exactly
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!

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    Quote Originally Posted by oceanboy View Post
    Some really funny responses in this thread.
    Some are total BS too

    Simple answer to the OP's question is NO.

    Non Simple answer, can go on for a while
    But people should remember, Circuit Breakers are there to protect the house wiring, not whats plugged in to power points etc.
    The OP's description does raise a few questions straight off the bat.

    A 32Amp Circuit Breaker controlling a 15Amp SPP.
    If it is a 32Amp breaker, the wiring must be 6mm (not smaller).....
    Thus the whole circuit is rated at 32 Amps, yet the 15Amp pp is not
    So.... are we using the 15Amp pp as a physical current limiting device by way of design?

    My guess is it's a combined circuit, that also does some electric hotplates as well as the oven, but i may be wrong.
    The circuit was installed by a licensed electrician about 10 years ago when the kitchen was installed and I had the board upgraded from ceramic fuses to breakers. It was checked 3 years ago when the board was again upgraded to the current standard when we had solar installed.

    It's a dedicated circuit and yes all 10 amp power points are on 20amp breakers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob_m_54 View Post
    Hahaha, I love electrical threads.....
    Try posting a network cabling thread in whirlpool, then watch them come out of the woodwork

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    Quote Originally Posted by mi_tasol View Post
    It was checked 3 years ago when the board was again upgraded to the current standard when we had solar installed.

    It's a dedicated circuit and yes all 10 amp power points are on 20amp breakers.
    For new homes, its been 16amp for power circuits for quite a while now, i long while in fact.
    So upgraded to current standard.... Well, upgraded to the existing standard at least
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!

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    Quote Originally Posted by oceanboy View Post
    Some really funny responses in this thread.
    Some are total BS too

    Simple answer to the OP's question is NO.

    Non Simple answer, can go on for a while
    But people should remember, Circuit Breakers are there to protect the house wiring, not whats plugged in to power points etc.
    The OP's description does raise a few questions straight off the bat.

    A 32Amp Circuit Breaker controlling a 15Amp SPP.
    If it is a 32Amp breaker, the wiring must be 6mm (not smaller).....
    Thus the whole circuit is rated at 32 Amps, yet the 15Amp pp is not
    So.... are we using the 15Amp pp as a physical current limiting device by way of design?

    My guess is it's a combined circuit, that also does some electric hotplates as well as the oven, but i may be wrong.
    My guess is it's a dedicated "Oven Circuit" with 6mm and a 32A fuse or breaker. But only the OP can confirm it anyway.

    It seems to be common now that a 15A Power Outlet is used instead of hard wiring the oven in, like they used to be. Ovens usually/often come with a flex lead and a 15A or 10A plug on the end, but the manual will often give directions for removing the flex and hard wiring if desired.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob_m_54 View Post
    My guess is it's a dedicated "Oven Circuit" with 6mm and a 32A fuse or breaker. But only the OP can confirm it anyway.
    As he did in Post No. 1
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob_m_54 View Post
    My oven 15A outlet has a 32A fuse..
    Your 15 amp power point should have a 16 amp Circuit breaker or fuse as does a 10 amp power point circuit so you would be fine to just plug it in and use it. If your 15 amp power point has a 32 amp fuse then the fuse needs to be replaced with the correct size (I would use a C/Breaker).

    I am a Victorian A Grade Electrician and Contractor
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trigger351 View Post
    Your 15 amp power point should have a 16 amp Circuit breaker or fuse as does a 10 amp power point circuit so you would be fine to just plug it in and use it. If your 15 amp power point has a 32 amp fuse then the fuse needs to be replaced with the correct size (I would use a C/Breaker).

    I am a Victorian A Grade Electrician and Contractor
    He would have a seperate Oven and Cooktop combined, hence the one circuit with 32 Amps.Just plug the 10 amp plug in and that should be the end of it. I'm also a licensed electrician.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trigger351 View Post
    Your 15 amp power point should have a 16 amp Circuit breaker or fuse as does a 10 amp power point circuit so you would be fine to just plug it in and use it. If your 15 amp power point has a 32 amp fuse then the fuse needs to be replaced with the correct size (I would use a C/Breaker).

    I am a Victorian A Grade Electrician and Contractor
    Nope, it's a dedicated oven circuit.... it's fine... Edit: OK, oven cooktop combined.... and it's still fine.. :-)
    and I'm not an Electrical Contractor....
    Last edited by bob_m_54; 20-02-16 at 01:59 AM.

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