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Thread: CTEK just killed my Battery

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    Default CTEK just killed my Battery

    It's just not my day

    Anyone ever suffered this?
    I had read about this prior to purchasing the CTEK, that they had killed Motorbike Batteries over night.
    Brand new CTEK MXS 5.0 with a Car and Bike setting (plus AGM and Recond)

    Motobatt AGM battery, 7AH, was fine yesterday morning, cranked bike ok.
    Connected the CTEK, selected "Bike" and "AGM" and "Recond", left it for 22hours
    (They suggest to "Recond" the battery once a year)
    Just disconnected it, tried bike, wouldn't even crank....

    Grabbed Multimeter, Battery now at 10.23volts...

    Overcharged and Damaged perhaps???
    Ive also had the CTEK connect to 3 other Batteries, 2 x 100Ah and another Bike (Standard LA)

    P.S. Perhaps i should not have selected "Recond" on the AGM Battery?
    It sends 15.8volts @ 1.5amps to the Battery (Manual says, Recond Mode for Calcium and Wet Cell, yet it is selectable for AGM also)

    I don't think AGM Batteries like going over 14.4volts or 14.7 in winter

    Have been using an old school 4 Amp charger for 30 years, never had a problem, ever....
    Even when i've left it connected for 24 hours.

    This does not look good:
    Last edited by ol' boy; 17-07-16 at 07:24 PM.
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    Otherwise known as VK4XA MaXiLeeCH's Avatar
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    One should NEVER use any chargers 'Recondition' setting on an AGM battery, it's a good way to kill em stone dead, particularly the smaller capacity ones. (I know, I learnt the hard way too)
    Sadly I don't think that there is much that can be done, save for purchasing a new battery and NOT using the CTek's "Recondition' mode it it again.
    MaXiLeeCH
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    Seems to be the case....
    Great, i just sent $118 to kill a perfectly good battery
    Which i'll now have to replace. Dam Battery cost more than the charger

    You'd think CTEK would have a "Programmed Lock Out" in the menu
    So when you select AGM, you are locked out of selecting the RECOND option.
    And they are, the "Experts" in Recharging and Maintaining Batteries.

    Worst part is, i do remember reading that they suggest the RECOND is for Wet and Calcium Batteries.
    Made a mental note not to do it to my AGM batteries......
    Mental Teletext is rooted also
    Last edited by ol' boy; 17-07-16 at 05:26 PM.
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    It sounds like you are on the right track, thinking that the problem is peculiar to AGM battery + Recond mode. I have an older version of the charger. I've been using it for a few years now without problems, although I've never used the recond mode.

    About once a month, I give my car's battery a top-up - anything from overnight to leaving the charger connected for a few days. The battery is over 10 years old, so the charger doesn't seem to be doing it any serious harm.

    Every three months I bring out my six spare 12v / 7Ah SLA batteries and top them up using the "motorbike battery" mode. Most of these are a few years old now and seem to be still in good condition.

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    Well, i hope this helps some others
    Looks like User Error on my part

    I just picked up the CTEK box, it says RECOND for "Wet and Calcium" on the back cover
    I knew i'd read it somewhere, doh!

    Obviously i was a bit excited charging everything i could find in the workshop.
    Worst thing is... I started charging on BIKE+AGM mode, then stopped it to deliberately put it in BIKE+AGM+RECOND
    Nice $200 mistake that was.
    Last edited by ol' boy; 18-07-16 at 07:20 AM.
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    The more i look at the Manual that comes with the CTEK MXS 5.0.
    The more it contradicts itself.

    As the Owners Manual and Retail Box i have does not tell you anywhere which setting NOT to use with AGM.

    Instead, it says "RECOND for use with Wet and Calcium Batteries"
    It actually says nothing about which Batteries not too.
    Ok, so i should have remembered that, but lets move on......

    Please see below, they even give you the 8 Stage Program walk through for AGM+RECOND for both Bike and Car??
    (why even publish it, if it is instant death for your AGM battery?... In fact, why isn't there a Clear Warning about the dangerous of )



    Worse is this.....



    Where it states AGM mode is for 14-160AH.... Hey, i have a 7AH AGM Bike Battery.
    So what happens when you Select Bike+AGM??
    Are you going to cook your 7AH AGM Battery?
    Last edited by ol' boy; 17-07-16 at 07:32 PM.
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    Going by their User Manual, you think these were Safe, Set and Forget Charger.....



    Its says NOTHING about not using AGM or RECOND together in the above.
    In fact, it tells you HOW to do it.

    So i'm not sure this is User Error?

    Anyone care to help me here. Is that how you read the above?

    I wonder how many people out there have killed their AGM batteries with this product?
    Especially the smaller Bike Batteries.
    Last edited by ol' boy; 18-07-16 at 01:28 PM.
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    You have dried out your small Agm batt also called vrla, remove top plate add rain/distilled water with. Syringe to top of plates, slow charge. Recond mode boils electrolyte to overcome stratification . In mobile application not needed. I have learnt batts the hard way_still learning. I have made my chargers/reconds/desulphators. The best charger I use is from a computer power supply with feedback resistor added to output to give 14,13.4,14.4,16v selectable.

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    Hmmm!!; I avoided buying one of these chargers, as I don't think 15.8v is a great idea for any 12v battery.
    Thanks for proving my point OB.
    Cheers, Tiny
    "You can lead a person to knowledge, but you can't make them think? If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the problem.
    The information is out there; you just have to let it in."

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    A dingo killed my battery! Just what I thought when I saw the thread title lol Sorry small minds lol

    ............Leroy :O
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    Yes, CTEK are trying to tell me, i have a collapsed cell (failed cell) in my Battery.
    That is interesting, as i didn't have one BEFORE i connected their charger.....

    Their response to that was "Often a failed cell will not become obvious until after a charge, so it is easy to blame to the charger, when its actually the battery"

    Or i could read that as, had i not used YOUR charger, my battery will still be fine
    As that has never happened using my old iron core 4 Amp dumb charger, on any battery in 25 years.
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiny View Post
    Hmmm!!; I avoided buying one of these chargers, as I don't think 15.8v is a great idea for any 12v battery.
    Thanks for proving my point OB.
    I actually got an email off CTEK Sweden this afternoon
    It is such a shame, that some mug punter for AU has to point out to them, what they should well and truly know about their own product.

    Here is the email replay from CTEK Sweden:

    Hi
    Thank you for contacting us.
    You have found a fault in our manual, and we will update as soon as possible.

    I understand your confusion, and I will try to explain.

    The MXS 5.0 has got 4 modes, this is for you to choose between.

    MC: this mode will charge with 14.4V and 0.8A – the low Amp will assure that smaller batteries (from 1.2Ah) will be fully charged but not overcharged.
    CAR: this mode will charge with 14.4V and 5A – the higher Amp will shorten the time to fully charge batteries from 14Ah.
    AGM: this mode will increase the voltage to 14.7 in order to fill AGM batteries to the top. Should be used together with MC mode for smaller batteries and with CAR mode for batteries from 14Ah.
    RECOND: should be used with wet batteries together with MC or CAR in order to prevent and repair batteries with stratified acid.

    To charge a small MC battery with CAR mode will in worst scenarios be like filling a coffee cup with the garden hose. It will be full but not in any good way.

    If you select MC + AGM your battery should be charged with 14.7V 0.8A.

    This is not enough to destroy a smaller battery.
    You have chosen the correct modes for your battery.

    If the battery after charge shows 10.23V – this is a sign that the battery suffers from at least one broken cell.

    The charger can’t break a cell, it will handle all cells equal. But if one cell are week you will most likely find out after a charge. And then it´s easy to see the charger as the problem.
    Why your battery has failed is hard to guess without testing it.
    Seriously!!!! I found a fault in their manual... come on, they sell millions of these around the world!
    How can one drop kick from downunder have found what millions around the world and their own international company couldn't?

    Sounds like standard deflection email to me, i'm sure they have had plenty in the past.

    Of course, in the end, it was all my Batteries fault.... silly thing.
    No mention that my Battery was fine before i used their charger on it Or that it would still be fine had i NOT used their charger on it

    In fact, the CTEK charger will tell you if your battery is dead and NOT charger... THAT didn't happen
    Nor did that happen after the CTEK killed it and tried to see if i could bring it back to life.

    CTEK in box with Windows Laptop... box heading for bin
    Last edited by ol' boy; 18-07-16 at 07:41 PM.
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    I have an older c tek and a newer one with the extra modes like yours. I've not used the regen on anything other than the failing lead acid battery last winter which is still in the crapodore. I've been happy with both chargers. Most of the time they keep the bike batteries going over winter. On a side note I have a lithium in one of the bikes and it keeps it charge very well!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Mix View Post
    You have dried out your small Agm batt also called vrla, remove top plate add rain/distilled water with. Syringe to top of plates, slow charge. Recond mode boils electrolyte to overcome stratification . In mobile application not needed. I have learnt batts the hard way_still learning. I have made my chargers/reconds/desulphators. The best charger I use is from a computer power supply with feedback resistor added to output to give 14,13.4,14.4,16v selectable.
    Thanks mate, i may as well try this, nothing to lose now.

    The CTEK Rep wants me to bring the Charger and Battery into them so they can test both.
    Not sure what there is to find, but i may as well see what they have to say.

    My biggest issue, isn't whats just happened (which has cost me $150 to $200), its more about my confidence to use it again.
    If this happens to my next Battery, i'm gonna be pissed off.

    P.S. This all started because of that 900CCA Federal Battery warranty claim
    If it wasn't for that, i wouldn't have purchased the CTEK to keep the replacement tendered
    Sometimes its better to just go to the pub!
    Last edited by ol' boy; 18-07-16 at 07:01 PM.
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeroyPatrol View Post
    I have an older c tek and a newer one with the extra modes like yours. I've not used the regen on anything other than the failing lead acid battery last winter which is still in the crapodore. I've been happy with both chargers. Most of the time they keep the bike batteries going over winter. On a side note I have a lithium in one of the bikes and it keeps it charge very well!

    Leroy

    Thanks Leroy

    I spoke to the CTEK Rep in Geelong today, she said, ultimately it wouldn't even matter what MODE i selected, or even if i selected CAR for a BIKE Battery.
    She told me the unit "Auto sensors" what battery you have connected and charged accordingly and it will not harm my battery.

    Well, thats a big call.
    Why have the settings then?
    Obviously i am just relaying what she said to me here, its not necessarily something i am about to believe.
    Last edited by ol' boy; 18-07-16 at 07:38 PM.
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    Batts these days can fail quickly where usually 1 cell grid goes o/c (pos). This is due to calcium lead alloy used in grid construction. Old batts. Used antimony, a side effect was high water consumption so low mai tenants batts don,t want it! Also antimony is scarce now &more costly! Overcharge promotes increased corrosion of grids, so, yes, a batt with advanced corrosion can fail quickly! Really, batts start to fail from time they are. Made, whether used or not!

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    Just a point on these CTEK Chargers for anyone looking to buy one.

    If you buy on-line, they are not covered by a warranty.
    It is the first question the CTEK Rep asked me.

    I purchased mine from Repco on Special, which is the same everyday price you will find them on eBay.
    But, No Warranty from eBay.
    Considering they come with a 5 Year Warranty, its something to keep in mind
    If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!

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    Quote Originally Posted by oceanboy View Post
    If you buy on-line, they are not covered by a warranty.
    It is the first question the CTEK Rep asked me.

    I purchased mine from Repco on Special, which is the same everyday price you will find them on eBay.
    But, No Warranty from eBay.
    Considering they come with a 5 Year Warranty, its something to keep in mind
    It makes no difference to warranty if you bought it online oceanboy (online store or 'buy it now' on eBay). As long at it was bought from a business you're covered under the ACL. Keep pushing, and if they don't come to the party lodge a dispute with the ACCC equivalent in your state.

    See here:

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    Quote Originally Posted by oceanboy View Post
    Just a point on these CTEK Chargers for anyone looking to buy one.

    If you buy on-line, they are not covered by a warranty.
    It is the first question the CTEK Rep asked me.

    I purchased mine from Repco on Special, which is the same everyday price you will find them on eBay.
    But, No Warranty from eBay.
    Considering they come with a 5 Year Warranty, its something to keep in mind
    Absolute crap, that rep needs to be sacked?

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    There are many reputable retail stores that are authorised sellers of CTEK products that also sell online, so I call bullshit on that warranty excuse.

    My guess is there are fakes being sold on ebay, with forged warranty cards.... that would make sense.

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