Hi guys, continuing on with AU2 wiring issue

**hogwort** · 31-08-17, 01:45 PM

No reversing lights/ blowing fuses issue. I checked loom from front piller to rear lights, including wheel arch & all good. What I'm after now is a wiring diag for the Au2 wagon or a schematic of the reversing wiring. Thanks again all.

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**vnboost** · 31-08-17, 04:53 PM

And

Hope these help.

**gordon_s1942** · 31-08-17, 07:14 PM

I had a weird problem with my AU2 wagon losing Cruise Control when trying to set it.
It was very erratic, either by refusing to accept the setting or dropping out after a period.
I have no idea if this was the cause or not but I found the Brake light mounted on top of the rear door had blown. The glass was almost black.
When I changed the globe, no more problems with Cruise Control !!!

Not long after I bought the wagon in 2004, (2nd hand, 100K + on speedo) I blew a couple of either brake or Tail light filaments on the Drivers side (I think it was the Brake one) so I replaced both sides with an LED type and both are still functioning after more than 10 years.
The LED's were bought from Dick Smiths and cost me between $8 and $10 each, not cheap when compared to a normal globe but after some 14 years, they were worth it.
True or false I heard a story that if the interior light blows or is removed, it can affect the engine immobiliser !!! Sounds weird but with electronics and faults that can happen, who knows??

Another thought, the rear wiring runs behind the panel that also holds the jack and wheel brace etc so make sure the wiring hasnt been damaged by them.

**mtv** · 31-08-17, 08:46 PM

Lamp failures (apart from vibration) are often caused by poor connections, in particular, earth.

This causes a current draw increase on the lamp filament, drastically causing premature failure.

It's unlikely to be that high to cause fuses to blow, though.

**hogwort** · 31-08-17, 09:34 PM

Originally Posted by gordon_s1942

I had a weird problem with my AU2 wagon losing Cruise Control when trying to set it.
It was very erratic, either by refusing to accept the setting or dropping out after a period.
I have no idea if this was the cause or not but I found the Brake light mounted on top of the rear door had blown. The glass was almost black.
When I changed the globe, no more problems with Cruise Control !!!

Not long after I bought the wagon in 2004, (2nd hand, 100K + on speedo) I blew a couple of either brake or Tail light filaments on the Drivers side (I think it was the Brake one) so I replaced both sides with an LED type and both are still functioning after more than 10 years.
The LED's were bought from Dick Smiths and cost me between $8 and $10 each, not cheap when compared to a normal globe but after some 14 years, they were worth it.
True or false I heard a story that if the interior light blows or is removed, it can affect the engine immobiliser !!! Sounds weird but with electronics and faults that can happen, who knows??

Another thought, the rear wiring runs behind the panel that also holds the jack and wheel brace etc so make sure the wiring hasnt been damaged by them.

I'm feeling your pain brother, wirings not my strong point tho I know bad earthing an issue. I've had to rewire a few trailers with earthing problems. Cheers & thanks for posting.

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**hogwort** · 31-08-17, 09:41 PM

Originally Posted by mtv

Lamp failures (apart from vibration) are often caused by poor connections, in particular, earth.

This causes a current draw increase on the lamp filament, drastically causing premature failure.

It's unlikely to be that high to cause fuses to blow, though.

The strange thing is I can let it idle about 5 minutes after replacing the fuse & it's fine. Take it for a drive then put in reverse & I can hear the fuse pop.

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**mtv** · 31-08-17, 09:48 PM

Originally Posted by hogwort

The strange thing is I can let it idle about 5 minutes after replacing the fuse & it's fine. Take it for a drive then put in reverse & I can hear the fuse pop.

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Did you replace the reversing switch you asked about some time ago?

**hogwort** · 31-08-17, 09:55 PM

Yeah tho one from the wreckers. I know the risk but I decided it was worth it, well $ wise. I would like to find out how to test it.

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**vnboost** · 31-08-17, 09:57 PM

You most likely have a short to ground after the switch.

**hogwort** · 31-08-17, 10:02 PM

Not clear on the mobile so open up the lappy tomorrow. Cheers

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**hogwort** · 31-08-17, 10:23 PM

Originally Posted by vnboost

You most likely have a short to ground after the switch.

You read my mind!! It's a nightmare of cable's & without a hoist double that.

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**VroomVroom** · 01-09-17, 08:59 AM

if the faults in the harness , then try running a single wire direct from the switch to the reverse lights. , cutting away the reverse wire at both ends.
some cars have a reverse feed going into the ECU so may not be possible but its an option to get you out of trouble.

**vnboost** · 01-09-17, 10:59 AM

Take out both reverse bulbs out and use a multi meter in continuity mode (preferably one that beeps) one end of the multi meter to ground and the other to the center pin of the bulb holder (+ve)

If you have a short to ground it should beep immediately, while its beeping wiggle the harness that contains the reverse light circuit back to the reverse switch and hopefully you can find your short.

If you cant find it disconnect the switch and that should tell you if the short to ground is in the switch.

**lsemmens** · 01-09-17, 11:13 AM

The first thing I'd do is unplug the switch and then go for a drive and test. If all is well, then the switch is the culprit, if you still have problems, of course you then have to start chasing wires.

**vnboost** · 01-09-17, 01:46 PM

Originally Posted by lsemmens

The first thing I'd do is unplug the switch and then go for a drive and test. If all is well, then the switch is the culprit, if you still have problems, of course you then have to start chasing wires.

It the problem is downstream from the switch then removing it will not confirm switch failure.

**hogwort** · 01-09-17, 01:52 PM

Yeah kind of figured that, tho hey I'm clutching at straws with this one

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**lsemmens** · 01-09-17, 07:32 PM

All a switch does is turn on and off, it's easily bypassed by a bit of wire. Typically all they do is switch an earth however, automotive designers might have them switching power, which, in this case appears to be. By disconnecting the switch you, at least, prove the circuit to the lights. You could then bypass the switch with a bit of wire, which would then prove the rest of the circuit.