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Thread: Ssanyong Musso 1998 all wheel drive wagon

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    Default Ssanyong Musso 1998 all wheel drive wagon

    I'm looking for a workshop manual or info for it. I'm needing to replace the front yoke/uni joint & unsure how to pull it apart. It's not your normal spider type. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.



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    holy ugly cars Batman , i've not even seen one of things on the road since 1998 .

    when you say its not a spider type is it a Birfield type CV joint sort of thing? does it have internal wire circlips? might not be able to see them under all the grease.

    are they a copy of some other car that you can get a manual for , like a Terracan or something?

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    A new Cv is going to be worth more than the whole car - I can see why you are trying to fix it yourself - will save having the write the thing off.

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    I think A Daewoo Musso was a rebadged Ssanyong so that might be a possibility. IIRC they were based on a Mercedes of some variety.
    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

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    Quote Originally Posted by lsemmens View Post
    I think A Daewoo Musso was a rebadged Ssanyong so that might be a possibility. IIRC they were based on a Mercedes of some variety.
    The motor was built under license from Mercedes i believe but dont think any other component is Merc.

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    Show us a pic of the joint that you cannot understand, i may be able to advise on how to tear it down.

    Or at least just remove it and take it to a place that rebuilds them.

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    The shaft is to be taken out tomorrow the 10th & I'll post a pic.
    Quote Originally Posted by Godzilla View Post
    Show us a pic of the joint that you cannot understand, i may be able to advise on how to tear it down.

    Or at least just remove it and take it to a place that rebuilds them.
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    It should look like below pic, with C clips retaining the caps

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    Quote Originally Posted by hogwort View Post
    The shaft is to be taken out tomorrow the 10th & I'll post a pic.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
    On the close-up you can see a split in the boot, hope it can be repaired as there's no listing as a spare part. There is only a small movement in the joint, about a mm when twisting the shaft in opposite directions.

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    I used on of these on a boat drive there shouldnt be any play in the joint if there is it will come apart and you can replace the balls ( standard size) THEY ARE DIFFERCULT TO DISMANTLE BUT YOU HAVE TO TURN IT UNTILL ITS FREE AND IT TAKES A LITTLE TAP AND IT COMES APART ? IF YOU ARE NOT CONFIDENT THEN GET SOMEONE WHO IS !!! you will have to grind the burs off the center ball housing or it will growl ? these are very small burrs and you need a pencil grinder to get then off the outside of the ring and keep it very clean grease after reassembly not before replace the boot any way several co,s make all sizes so they are easily obtained

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    looks like a conventional CV joint , remove the boot and there should be a large internal circlip holding the balls and joint into the "cup". Mitsi uses similar for the fronts on all the IFS models

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    Yes its a CV, hardie spicer will be able to supply the boot and even rebuild it for you as can any driveshaft rebuilder.

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    ok now ?

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    Headache. It'll be a 2 wheel drive for a while. Also needs rear brake pads & possible brake master cylinder. Now where the hell can u source one of those
    Quote Originally Posted by hinekadon View Post
    ok now ?
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    supercheep for pads and kit for master cylinder take old ones with you and do match

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    Quote Originally Posted by hinekadon View Post
    supercheep for pads and kit for master cylinder take old ones with you and do match
    Ok thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hinekadon View Post
    supercheep for pads and kit for master cylinder take old ones with you and do match
    Bought & fitted rear pads but brake pedal still fades. I took a pic of my master cyl but the couldn't match & no kits in stock. Checked hand brake shoes, they're ok though hand brake ineffective. Hand brake lever only does 4 clicks b4 it becomes really hard to pull problem buying it after it's been sitting for neer 2 years.

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    I would strongly flush and replace brake fluid and bleed brakes

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    Dont waste your time rebuilding the master if you have not done it before or know to check if the bore has a mark and if you know how to hone it out, just drop a new one in, Repco should be able to get them.

    As Rick said, start with bleeding.

    Also check if the discs are heavily rusted the brakes can feel spongey.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Godzilla View Post
    Dont waste your time rebuilding the master if you have not done it before or know to check if the bore has a mark and if you know how to hone it out, just drop a new one in, Repco should be able to get them.

    As Rick said, start with bleeding.

    Also check if the discs are heavily rusted the brakes can feel spongey.
    I've rebuild a few & understand the pitting issues & having to re hone so I feel comfortable putting a kit in. I clamped off the rear brakes & the pedal wasn't as spongy tho with more pressure it was going down more & didn't go solid. The motor was on. Clamped all brakes & pedal was solid, motor on.

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