I had Ford disable the smart charging feature on my Ranger so that it behaves like the óld fashioned' alternators. This then allows you to use a traditional type battery isolater and not worry about using DC to DC converters. KISS.
Leroy
Hi VroomVroom,
Pajero NW 2014
I see if I can post a photo of the shunt clamped to the negative battery terminal.
The heavy earth cable is first the after the flat metal shunt there is a removable plug with 4 wires,
If you unplug this then you get an error light come up on the dash panel, dont know if it affects the charging current though.
Sometimes you are the pigeon, sometimes you are the statue.
I had Ford disable the smart charging feature on my Ranger so that it behaves like the óld fashioned' alternators. This then allows you to use a traditional type battery isolater and not worry about using DC to DC converters. KISS.
Leroy
Blackbiro (20-01-19)
HI all,
PICS OF THE NEG BAT TERMINAL THAT'S NO BS.
[IMG][/IMG]
The heavy earth cable is connected to the bottom of the shunt and goes to chassis .
Around the shunt is a metal core like that of an electricians clamp meter that can measure current flow.
Coming out of the core is a plug with four wires which I assume carries the info to the ECM computer and varies the charge current according to the voltage drop across the shunt.
(Also notice the Hyundai battery that Mitsubishi Service installed recently.)
Next step-auto electrician.
Too old for this.
Sometimes you are the pigeon, sometimes you are the statue.
lsemmens (20-01-19)
sorry not a shunt . a quick connect . for a shunt there has to be two wires and milivolts are measured across a resistance and fed to another volt meter calibrated to read the current thru the resistance who ever told you it was a shunt is an egg-nor-anus are you convinced yet ????? thanks for the photos and clearing it up . Now getting back to your battery not charging . do you have a mulitmeter ? if so disconnect the aux battery and put the meter across the battery terminals as you start the engine the voltage will drop untill the alternator kicks in and senses the drop in voltage then the increase in voltage is your source of current to get the battery voltage up to where it should be to start the car again should you need to. turn of engine without charging the battery and reconnect the aux battery you will notice there is a reduction in the charge rate as now you have two batterys sharing the charge , so long as you get rid of the crap you have been sold and parallel the batteries there is no such thing as a smart alternator , they all have voltage regulators on then to work as normal . if you want to totally seperate the batteries install another alternator to charge the aux batteries . Hope this helps don
It's a battery current sensor (although not a shunt) for battery charge control input to the ECU, which controls the alternator output. So the guy who told you it was a shunt, used the wrong terminology, but had the right idea in what it does.
Further:
from here:
So the bcdc1220 isn't really suitable for your vehicle as it can drop the alt voltage to below 12.7V. The BCDC1220-IGN or BCDC1220-LV is a better choice.The standard BCDC range will operate on voltage
sensing alone in
vehicles that the alternator voltages does not regu
late lower than 12.7V at any time, such as standard Fixed
Voltage Alternators and
ECU Controlled Temperature Compensating Alternators. The wider range of BCDC variants are applied
in vehicles fitted with ECU
Controlled Variable Voltage Alternators.
Last edited by bob_m_54; 21-01-19 at 08:19 AM. Reason: extra info
how can that be any thing but wrong when the center tap of the 3 phase diodes are all gounded to earth . there is no ecu controll over the charge rate as they are all voltage devices so cannot control current from the ecu
yes incorrect terminology used to confuse the bs bobs rite its only used to disconnect the battery for storage as i said in my previous post "its a connector " nothing more , some body has a ring thru your nose and leading around for their pleasure biro !! this is a quote from the posting by bob m
It is well known that the Redarc BCDC In-Vehicle Battery Charger is the best solution to charge auxiliary battery banks to
100%state of charge while on the move. The BCDC will overcome voltage drop when the auxiliary or house batteries are a
considerable distance from the charging source, and boosts low output voltages from ECU Controlled Temperature
Compensating Alternators to your auxiliary battery. Temperature Compensating Alternators have been used primarily in
the Toyota range of vehicles fitted with D4D common rail diesels since early 2000s.
as you will see they are trying to sell a product
the ECU they talk about is simply the regulator on the alternator not your engine computor as i said on a previous post . some brute sales man has said "boy a regulator on a alternator now thats smart "yeah yeah its been done since the 1930s .as far as temperature compensating is concerned more bull shyte as this is achieved by the diode stack heating up and as a result the charge rate drops because of the temp going up "temp goes up so does resistance "
Last edited by hinekadon; 21-01-19 at 08:47 AM. Reason: more
@hinekadon read this.
And this:
It's not the alternator current that is controlled, but the alternator output voltage, via the ECU.
hinekadon (22-01-19)
thanks bob !!there were a few puzzling things being quoted in the post . there is a hall effect transistor which is a current devise as it controls the regulator of the alternator , ( theres a mistake when they state it controls the discharge ) whilst i cant be sure i would assume this is connected to the engine control unit so as to adjust the idle rate if the battery is down for fuel effiency purposes as quotes in the blurb , if the ecu was to control the charge rate then there would be no need for a regulator on the alternator at all but it has one ???? hall effect transistors are common in industrial motor control protection and are quite a good reliable device lately the have become popular in clamp-on amp meters and they change their bias as the magnetic flux increases to conduct more . the post was about not charging a aux battery from the engine start battery and putting a pile of other stuff into the car to make it do it . regardless of the ecu or the other devices involved the battery if it was connected with jumper cables it would charge the aux battery dont you agree ????? therefore paralleling the batterys is the way to go and forget the fancy shit thats come up and if you dont want to charge it disconnect it . Lots of fun tho Isnt it don
Yes, I agree that it doesn't control discharging as stated in the second link, but it does control the charging voltage, via the ECU. The reason I posted was to correct the terminology about a shunt. But anyway.
If it was me, I'd use a dc-dc charger that could handle the low voltage of the alternator, something like the BCDC1225-LV or IGN. But also fit decent sized wiring to the whole process. 8B&S or 6B&S even.
Dunno Bob, i think i would use some of the jumbo speaker cable its bigger and very flexible to run around cars and boats but not many have clicked on to it any way not my concern I just dont like pulsed battery chargers as they tend to eat batteries life and are a source of rf noise which has to be suppressed making them more inefficent as well I have chucked away many of those type of things and gone back to the old way to find the batteries last a hell of a lot longer cheers don
As I mentioned in my earlier post, the latest Redarc model BCDC1225D works with standard, smart and temperature-sensing alternators.
It does not require a separate ignition connection, or an external relay for solar changeover.
It gives priority to solar input, and automatically switches to alternator when solar output is insufficient.... and even combines solar and alternator voltages simultaneously.
There's also the 40 amp version BCDC1240D.
The operating/installation manual is available .
LeroyPatrol (22-01-19),tristen (22-01-19)
I recently fitted a dual battery system to my son-in-law's Landcruiser, so he could have lights and a fridge in the tray box. I used the Intervolt DCC Pro, which is a nice little charger, and very flexible to fit and use. It's limited to 25A though, but for a 100Ah battery, it works well. He paid $270.00 for his, but he knows someone in the business, so got a pretty good discount. Can be setup as Voltage sensing operation, or IGN wire controlled. Has a built in MPPT solar charge control. Has nifty little LCD display and control panel that is mounted remote from the charger. It does need to be reprogrammed for the battery type and charging mode if you disconnect the start battery, but that takes about 20 seconds. Oh and if you Google a vid on it, and see the Yank bloke whinging about the poor connector quality for the display, he's full of crap and must be a bumbling idiot if he stuffed them up on his.
I don't know if this post has been resolved and if it hasn't, you should have a look at the victron energy Cyrix Battery Combiners. I use these products exclusively because they work, are reasonably priced and are very reliable. Their solar regulators are also a very good product.
Bookmarks