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Thread: Kenwood Food Mixer - No Power - Mint Cond - Dead.

  1. #81
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    Right.
    nomeat - no 240vac, got it! And the CRO Probe was on 10x.

    Tested (out of board), the .33uf cap and it reads .031uf.
    The R205 read 51Ω
    The Cxxx 470uf 16v - read 454uf
    Also tested the yellow cap at the A and N and it read .99nF (had 1.0uF).

    On the front board - off board - I tested C105 as Skepticist mentioned and it read 9.9nf.


    Also R104 read 99Ω.

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  • #82
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    who enjoying this ???? I am
    . Please treat people as you would like to be treated yourself.

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    Double checked that 0.33uF cap?
    If it's only 1/10 of the marked capacitance (0.031uF) then that's the culprit right there with 10 x the intended reactance
    All the other components are well within their tolerance range
    Last edited by Skepticist; 14-02-19 at 05:10 PM.

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  • #84
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    0.031F !!! What a difference taking it out of board and a '0' makes


    [QUOTE]Also tested the yellow cap at the A and N and it read .99nF (had 1.0uF).[/QUOTE]

    Are you sure? It is much smaller than the 0.33F but must endure the same mains voltage. I would have expected 0.1F from that size.
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 14-02-19 at 05:34 PM.
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  • #85
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    I assumed that should been .99uF but it pays to make certain always

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    Sorry guys...
    Yeah, Typos. Big cap was 0.31uF and the little yellow one was 0.1uF.

    It's annoying to be checking all these items (that normally should be), responsible for the no power, yet they are reading ok.

    How about I order a PS board $48 and see ?

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    That 0.33uF X2 cap is about the only component that could throttle the voltage without being completely obvious so it would be worth replacing it as they only cost a dollar or two just to be certain it's not somehow intermittent or voltage/temperature related. Until the actual cause of failure is located there can be no certainty of the correct action required to fix it.

    Have you tried running the motor to see if its in good shape?
    I know it 'moved' when you bridged the triac terminals briefly but it would be very inconvenient to spend $100 or more replacing all the electronics only to find the motor needs replacing as well.

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    OK, I'll source a 0.33uF.
    Is this one ok on eBay 253811263401 - different colour and brand though.

    What seems to be an original is from the UK (got to buy 2 qty), $15 delivered. 183509298121

    Alibaba $US .01cents each!! 100qty though, LOL!!!

    Anyone got one of these in their drawers...?

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    The Ebay one should do the job - has all the right numbers. The only potential issue is the physical size but it will prove/disprove the existing cap as the problem at least.
    Element14 has a fair selection of X2 caps and way cheaper but the issue is the postage cost which is waived if your order is over a certain figure ($35 I think). RS components might be better for a small order like this (fast too)

    Element14 range:
    They deliver in a day or 2 if the component is in local stock, somewhat longer if it comes from an overseas warehouse
    Last edited by Skepticist; 15-02-19 at 06:12 PM.

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    if you are in Sydney or know some one they can get one from wagners $2





    Last edited by fandtm666; 15-02-19 at 07:44 PM.

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    Tried RS components, delivery is free and next day but you have to buy 10 caps so $17 including GST
    Element14 will supply 1 cap next day but shipping charge (vie Toll) is $13 unless you order over $45 worth of components so 10 caps from them is all up around $23 inc GST, or 1 will cost near $15.

    Pressure is on to buy a bag of stuff

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    Many thanks for the links people.

    I'll order one today and hopefully it will arrive early next week.

    Cheers.

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    The new cap arrived today.
    Ordered Sat afternoon by phone - told to be processed on Monday. Arrived Friday afternoon.

    So tomorrow morning, I'll pop it in and see if Skepticist is correct...
    Obviously, I can't keep ordering these single components bit by bit due to sheer $cost and time. The cap read 'ok' anyway. However, I am lead by the experts
    I've got the screws, bolts, bits and bob's everywhere - going to be a challenge to put it back in one piece LOL!!!

    nomeat: Yes, I have left the 'probe sticks' on the PIC for future testing

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    Not many components in that simple power supply and that cap has got to be the major suspect being the most critical part of it. The other parts (zener, diode, resistor) are easily obtained if it comes down to that.

    Fingers crossed

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    It Works! Well, sort of....

    Put the new cap in and when I slid the power slide to the first position the motor started spinning!!! YIPPEE. However, it starts and stops

    Spins up, then winds down, spins up, winds down....
    In the video (for some reason no sound plays), you can't hear the motor starting up and spinning down - which I assume is a loss of power.

    I noticed a spark from the (I think), commutator, every time it started the motor. So you will have to use your imagination as the vruumm, deeerrrr, vruumm, deeerrr, cycle as you can time it to the copper windings turning.





    So why would a cap @0.316uF not do anything but a new cap @0.334uF make it work? Seem such a small difference.
    Last edited by GT250; 23-02-19 at 12:22 PM.

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    thats interesting gt that means that the triac is firing and stopping the firing again repeat /repeat we will have to get to the bottom of this , then you can make some scones ????lol the cap is charatistic of a fail cap so dont worry about that , have to make sure the 5v supply isnt falling off next step which will turn off the triac and produce the shown effect .
    . Please treat people as you would like to be treated yourself.

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    Maybe it just needs a load for the speed regulator to work. You mentioned the first speed, how about the others?
    Otherwise check the wiring carefully (continuity test all the way to the PIC board), focus on the hall sensor and that it's positioning hasn't moved, no soldering splatter on the PCBs when you replaced the cap and other parts.
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 23-02-19 at 01:07 PM.
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    Breakthrough at last
    The commutator looks a bit scored in the video and that's easily remedied if you want to dismantle the motor.
    The 'pulsing' could be due to the type of speed control it uses and running it with no load
    IE the PIC fires the triac until the hall sensor indicates the right speed then cuts the power until the speed falls below the set threshold then applies power to accelerate the rotor again. With no load (like a batch of cake mix or whatever) the rotor is accelerating above the speed setting.

    Maybe try mixing a batch of scones or just a bowl of water with it to see if it's more stable in operation on various speed settings

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    If you have access to an ESR capacitor tester it might reveal the problem but there's no doubt now that the original cap has major issues.

    Only the lowest speed setting was mentioned - does the motor speed change with different settings?
    Last edited by Skepticist; 23-02-19 at 01:20 PM.

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    Ok.
    There's no more 240VAC running around the whole thing. I tested a few places on the PIC board side that were 240VAC before, now there isn't - but I'm still going to be careful

    The probes on the PIC (nomeat), are now reading 4.8VDC

    The Hall sensor hasn't seemed to move It's glued in and the PCB board is located by two big bolts to the motor housing. Can I move it manually when the motors going without damaging anything?

    When I put load on the rotating head it doesn't' prevent the stop/start.

    When I move the power slide up the motor does spin with more power (greater revs), but then still stops, then restarts...

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