That type of pot is essentially sealed. You can try flooding it with CRC 226 or similar. Do not use WD40.
Next step is to loosen the screws that hold the sections together and get the lubricant in.
Ultimately remove and pull apart and clean.
Got a Pioneer VXS-D503S AV amp with dirty volume pots.
By the schematic it appears that it's five pots in one.
The volume is also remote controlled using a motor see photo. I don't have the remote.
Just want to get in and spray the pots. They will be the squarish section of the control. Any ideas how to get inside ?
Service manual See page 16 :
Last edited by loopyloo; 05-08-19 at 09:08 PM.
Look Here -> |
That type of pot is essentially sealed. You can try flooding it with CRC 226 or similar. Do not use WD40.
Next step is to loosen the screws that hold the sections together and get the lubricant in.
Ultimately remove and pull apart and clean.
loopyloo (06-08-19)
Wait before you possibly ruin high end pots with sprays or attempts to take it apart !
I see an electro right next to it and possibly more elsewhere that might be faulty and creating a DC path over the pot.
This can cause noise while you adjust it.
Last edited by Uncle Fester; 06-08-19 at 10:46 PM.
Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...
Yellow is the motor.
Blue is just hold downs for the pot.
Red is the pots. That's a lot of solder joints for just five pots.
Now I need to get these wires out of that white connector to remove the volume board. I can unclip each end and lift them a bit but then feels stuck, don't want to force it. How does that clip work ?
loopyloo (06-08-19)
loopyloo (06-08-19)
Yes the scratchyness is intermittent and turning the pot several times only removed some of the noise.
I imagine buying a new pot would be out of the question. They'd prob want to sell me the entire board and then there'd be availability and enormous pioneer price to consider, so I'm not even entertaining that notion.
Given the age of the amp, chances of getting a Pot out of Pioneer would be almost as good as the chances of me becoming a multi-millionaire in the next few minutes. They're more likely going to try and sell you a new amp. Good luck with the cleaning, and I'd be looking at the caps. If they can be easily swapped, I'd do that just to eliminate one potential source.
I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...
loopyloo (07-08-19)
Last edited by loopyloo; 07-08-19 at 01:20 AM.
lsemmens (07-08-19)
Shame on you
I have never thrown an amp away in my life, at least not without scavenging all the useful parts.
The oldest hifi amp I have is a 2x50W from Braun from 1969, weighs abut 20kg !
...and yes I am too lazy to replace EVERY electro-cap in it, there are 100's and they already started to fail in the 1980's.
This would be the closest to a valve amp in sound. It has huge output transformers with that big warm sound that you could clip without it sounding nasty, ideal for the hard rock I listened to back then. Could beat any 2x100W (true RMS) and connected to my folded horn cabinet just with a 50W 15"Heco speaker, the old paint would crumble down from the 4.5m high ceiling when I bought my first CD (It's a kind of Magic from Queen) and magic it was when it looked like it was snowing inside the room.
So that CD together with that amp was a 'break-through' experience that I wanted to share
Anyhow the message: Don't throw good old stuff away if you are a passionate hobbyist/tinkerer and I see you as such.
I would just solder out that ribbon connecter if you cant lift the cap off, then it is one way.
Last edited by Uncle Fester; 07-08-19 at 11:57 AM.
Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...
hinekadon (07-08-19),Uncle Fester (07-08-19)
To remove the ribbon cable you push on the retainer it's spring loaded.
Death smiles at everyone. Grumpy old men smile back.
loopyloo (08-08-19),tristen (08-08-19),Uncle Fester (08-08-19)
hinekadon (16-08-19)
The volume control is made up like this.
Only had to separate the layers a little to get the spray in. Easy !
Hope it works ok when I reassemble it.
Last edited by loopyloo; 16-08-19 at 09:29 PM.
Managed to insert some spray and put it all back together with no problem, then I turned to pot back and forth lots of times before turning it on.
It still crackled, but this time I hear it crackling even while not turning the volume.
Very strange how it would crackle for up to 10 secs then suddenly fade to quiet, then after maybe 5-6 secs it would start crackling again. That repeated a few times.
I noticed dolby was on, so turned it off and the crackling stopped immediately. It would also crackle with simulated stereo turned on.
After a couple of minutes playing with it, the crackling stopped altogether. Even after leaving the amp unplugged overnight, when I tried it again the crackling was gone. I guess it just needed some saturation.
Guess I'll just have to consider it fixed.
The 2 buttons that when on caused the crackling to happen, "dolby" and "simulated surround".
Last edited by loopyloo; 18-08-19 at 10:44 PM.
Looks like you have two faults.
The scratchy volume and a noisy transistor.
The noisy transistor, or IC, in the surround circuitry.
This will be heat related and chased down with freeze spray and heat source.
loopyloo (20-08-19)
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