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Thread: Sliding Gate - Spring knob switch prong thing...

  1. #21
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    Hey sorry, for the late reply fandtm666,

    Thank you very much for the offer, but I'll try and get that other (looks like a direct replacement), limit switch pending delivery and I've yet to see a local gate company as well.



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    Quote Originally Posted by GT250 View Post
    Hi all,

    I have to weigh up getting a new motor - problem is I have 6 remotes! Not sure if they can be freq'd in, as a new motor would come with a couple different ones, and maybe a new piece of track...
    dont worry too much , all sliding gates need maintenance from time to time. you often get wear and tear on the racks when the concrete slab carrying the gate / rails moves in relation to the mounting of the motor. also you can get universal remote recievers which will take your new remotes and trigger your existing gate inputs.

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    GT250 (29-10-19)

  • #23
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    Not much of an update:

    Apparently, these 'limit switch', gate controllers were the rage, over 8 years ago...

    Nowadays (and I saw a few in action at the local gate company), they are all magnetic - basically like a reed switch.
    Cheapest one they had was $550 and install $300+gst. Install myself = no warranty!

    I found a local guy who has been dealing with gate controllers for over 25yrs and he's coming around on Friday. So I'll leave the new micro's in and reassemble the whole thing and let him work on it.

    As VroomVroom says, maybe they need some maintenance. It's certainly not had any since install.

    Anyway, I'll let you know what happens...

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    hinekadon (29-10-19)

  • #24
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    An update, and hopefully a final one!
    I think I have fixed it:

    And the reason is, is well (if it's still working in a few days after constant usage), stupid and; I'm not to blame for this bit - a molding issue in the outer case, coupled with the 'Up and Down' movement of the prongy thing mentioned in some previous posts.

    I'll cancel the guy coming out on Friday as I'm pretty sure I've got it. Fingers crossed...

    Tomorrow, I'll have to do some drawings to explain what I mean about the molding of the outer case...

  • #25
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    Hi all,
    First of all I'd like to thank everyone for your help and inputs.
    I know that my problem seemed stupid and the answer turned out to be easy. But one never knows if other people have this issue and never knew or got an option to 'look elsewhere'.

    The gate has been running for two days now. Seems to be ok. Two people have used it and not reported any issues.

    How I found out what was wrong:

    As I had just fitted the new micros and then the day after I decided to put the gate controller back together for this guy to come out on Friday, I tested it and it worked fine...
    I put the outer case back on and tested it and it screwed up!
    WTF>>>!!!
    Took of the case and it worked. Put case on and it worked, huh?, Case off worked, case on didn't work....!
    When I moved the spring by hand (Gate open half way and just using the remote to make the gate go backwards and forwards before the guide plates came into use), it all worked fine.

    In my leaning over, crying my eyes out, I noticed the spring 'flicking' as the gate came to its supposed stop, but still running onwards into the gear cog!
    Then I saw it!

    The spring due to its 'looseness/ gravity' was catching the vertical of the 'T' cut out of the outer case.

    So when the guide plate moved onto the spring, the spring was 'caught' from moving horizontally and as the guide pate moved more forward (with its angled design putting more pressure on the spring), this caused to spring to flick into the normal horizontal slot and the gate motor would stop.

    The time it took the spring to come out of the vertical part, was the cm's of travel to cause all the hassle.

    So I have glued a horizontal bar of plastic over the vertical area. Of course this means that I can't take the cover off as this plastic bar basically locks the spring into place. I'd have to remove the plastic bar to allow me to take off the cover.

    But as long as it works for another 2-3 years, I'm ok with that. I used a thick cable tie section 40mm in lenght. Hard wearing and it will never see any UV.

    Another good outcome: Once again the Austech Fourm is a great place to get ideas, admit ones failures, yet get the best result one can get with some of the best support out there.


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    lsemmens (31-10-19)

  • #26
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    good to see you sorted it

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