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Thread: Power Assist Bike - ex Stolen

  1. #21
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    I have been following this thread with interest.
    Now I have to ask, Uncle fester, what is this electric tractor you speak of ? tell us more.



  • #22
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    how are the police going to know if you have more than the legal 200W on an Ebike? how would they measure it? I think 300w is plenty according to bikes ive ridden in Japan , and that kills the battery life

  • #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by loopyloo View Post
    I have been following this thread with interest.
    Now I have to ask, Uncle fester, what is this electric tractor you speak of ? tell us more.
    I think I first mentioned it here:



    There are more posts in that thread describing it a bit and I also posted it somewhere else in a different thread somewhere.

    I haven't been with it since last autumn. First I had no access to the property because of the bushfires, then came Covid.
    Now with the restrictions eased I have to wait for the next school holidays.
    I can only hope the LiFePO4 battery bank is not stuffed. Normally self discharge is not an issue for at least a year but I have no clue what the battery management system might be doing as it has an always active low current balancing function. I do have a connector strip to disconnect all the cells but left it connected(difficult access) as I never expected to be away that long.
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 17-06-20 at 03:15 PM.
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    Hi people,

    I have ordered the new Throttle Twist Hall grip. $70 delivered.

    The original plastic housing is broken, missing half of the four screws and who knows what else went on?

    At least I will get a proper fitting 'module' and I will know the wires and the hall are ok.
    So the next step will be hoping that the connections are the same at the controller end, but if not then a bit of 'splicing'

    Can I ask what sort of 'splicing' or 'connecting' clamp/clip would you recommend, as the area inside the frame housing is pretty tight...?

    Once again thanks to everyone and to you Uncle Fester (UF), for the advice so far..

    I see the controller is 'listed' at 12A, but from my reading these measurements are to be taken with a piece of salt. And as UF says the motor is a tiny one and at the end of the day, this wasn't meant to be a 'project' bike.
    I just want to get it working as it was designed to do.

    So will sit back and wait for the new grip...


    Cheers,
    GT250.

  • #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Fester View Post
    I think I first mentioned it here:



    There are more posts in that thread describing it a bit and I also posted it somewhere else in a different thread somewhere.

    I haven't been with it since last autumn. First I had no access to the property because of the bushfires, then came Covid.
    Now with the restrictions eased I have to wait for the next school holidays.
    I can only hope the LiFePO4 battery bank is not stuffed. Normally self discharge is not an issue for at least a year but I have no clue what the battery management system might be doing as it has an always active low current balancing function. I do have a connector strip to disconnect all the cells but left it connected(difficult access) as I never expected to be away that long.
    Ha ha that's ingenious.
    and who would have thought (except you) to use linear actuators in that way.
    So it's radio controlled then ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by loopyloo View Post
    Ha ha that's ingenious.
    and who would have thought (except you) to use linear actuators in that way.
    So it's radio controlled then ?
    RC, ride on and eventually autonomous. This is for me to knock myself out(hopefully not literally) purely for experimental fun. I pretend I am building a Mars rover or something.
    It is a big shame that I rarely get the chance to go to my bush retreat.
    I need to replace the driver circuit for the steering actuators as they overshoot because of their motor inertia. I had already designed and built last year the new driver board that shorts them when they are off and before they are reversed and now has it's own PIC micros dedicated to deal with this but as said I couldn't get there.
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 18-06-20 at 12:40 PM.
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    Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...

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  • #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT250 View Post
    '

    Can I ask what sort of 'splicing' or 'connecting' clamp/clip would you recommend, as the area inside the frame housing is pretty tight...?

    Cheers,
    GT250.
    I would only use solder and heat shrink tube, especially if it is a tight spot.

    I stay clear from those joiners that cut into the insulation and also probably weaken the wire and promote corrosion. They also use up a lot of space.
    Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
    Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
    Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...

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    Hi all,
    The new Twist grip arrived today.

    And of course - the connections don't fit the original connections - whom would have thought..

    In the below: 1 brown is from the OLD twist grip, going into 2 green the speed controller.
    3 is the OLD twist grip going to the speed controller 'block'. Disregard the Green plastic stuff - bad photo work!




    Next photo is the NEW Twist grip connection and the OLD twist grip.
    1 going to the Speed controller is a Green so I assume the White (from the new twist grip), is ok?




    And just to make it all a bit harder, the cable runs are enclosed by welded brackets! Photo is towards the front of the bike, there is another to the rear..




    Now: I can do all the 'connections' and see if the thing will run.

    However, I have to accept as Uncle Fester mentioned a bit ago, if the speed controller is stuffed - I'll have to get a new one.

    Plus NEW speed controller will more than likely have different connections again...! Oh fun!

    So as is, I'll do my best to wire up the new Twist grip tomorrow and see what happens...

    Cheers.


    EDIT: The new Twist grip had a single Brown connection block- which did fit - the old 'Green' connection block.
    Last edited by GT250; 22-06-20 at 06:09 PM.

  • #29
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    Hi all,
    Well good news... All working...

    I was going to have the cables from the new twist grip just 'hanging around' to at least see if it was going to work and if the speed controller was ok.

    I was JUST ABOUT to start snipping and splicing the new hall connector wires to the old BIG block hall connector on the controller - from the old hall grip, when I decided to just remove the old hall grip and cables and go through the hassle of threading the new hall grip - before a test.
    Good job I did!

    Turns out the BIG block connector wasn't to do with the hall grip, and most fortunately the speed controller's hall connection was compatible with the new hall grip.

    The supplier had warned me that the new hall twist, may not fit the speed controllers hall connection(s) - But it did


    Operation is quite interesting:

    The First turn of the Key lights up the display.
    This mode (when turning the grip does nothing). However, once you start to pedal it moves off - albeit full speed, not related to the gear or how fast you pedal..? When you stop pedaling, it takes about 5 seconds to cut the power.
    Strat pedaling again and the cycle (ha, ha, PUN), repeats.

    The Second turn of the key lights up the display and then one can just twist the grip and it moves off (no pedaling required). More twist greater speed...!

    Applying either brake cuts the power. Front brake is on the Left hand side!!!???

    Not much power. I'm 89kg and it struggles to get up an average hill (Can't define 'average', sorry . On the flat it's happy up to 20+ kph.
    So all done people.

    My thanks to everyone who gave advice and a special thanks to Uncle Fester.


    Cheers,
    GT250.

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    great news mate , well done. those modes of operation aren't what I would be expecting , but as long as you know what they do it will make longer journeys easier. or just chuck a milk crate on the back and use it as a grocery getter

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  • #31
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    Now it's time to test out the range of the thing. See how far you can get without having to put in too much effort.
    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

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  • #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT250 View Post
    Hi all,
    Well good news... All working...


    Not much power. I'm 89kg and it struggles to get up an average hill (Can't define 'average', sorry . On the flat it's happy up to 20+ kph.
    So all done people.

    My thanks to everyone who gave advice and a special thanks to Uncle Fester.


    Cheers,
    GT250.

    Well done

    That power confirms that it is likely legal to use in AU. I always need to pedal uphill.
    The iMortor only gets up to 13km/h up my 'average' hill before it gets strenuous to pedal, my old and heavy Sachs Elektra Classic can manage 18km/h up the same hill freshly charged but I have 'modded' it slightly, old Nicads replaced with higher voltage LiPos and a CPU cooler fan directly over the motor which is not a hub.
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 25-06-20 at 08:11 PM.
    Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
    Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
    Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...

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