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Thread: LG 55LB6520-TB - Is it Going to be Worth it???

  1. #21
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    Hi all,
    I'll be picking it up today!!!!
    $10 cost.

    I'll be glad to get thing out of the building and on the table!!

    Johnno: I'm hoping (wishful thinking), that a HDMI source might give a solid (stay on display). At the moment the only display is on for 0.10 of a second, then goes blank for about 13015secs. So if I ever have to do a firmware update I'm going to have to get the display to stay on methinks.

    I'm hoping to use it as a Security Monitor (fingers crossed for a good screen on HDMI), as the TV looks to have been sold in Egypt (not now), or Saudi Arabi as it came in with an English Plug Type. It's 'Middle East' ish. So the Tuner might not even be our PAL or freqs.
    The AC socket is not the kettle type. It's the sort off a Dell P/S Round lumpy three triangular type - if that makes any sense!

    I found an old Logitech Harmony remote. I might see if i can get the codes for this TV. On/Off, Menu and AV/Source first to work i hope

    Cheers,
    GT250.




    Cheers,
    GT250.

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  • #22
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    that type of power lead is used on computer equipment often

  • #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT250 View Post
    So the Tuner might not even be our PAL or freq
    Had a moment to get curious about this ~ just supposing it was sold to the Egyptian market --- they do use PAL(BG) but as such it doesn't seem like anyone transmits on DVB-T there ~ it's all satellite based DVB-S sources. That'd make you wonder if the tuner section actually includes any DVB-T support at all (I could imagine the LG bean-counters getting uppity about including something that'll never be used). This is why when you see images of these places, there's no UHF/VHF antennas in sight, but instead a plethora of satellite dishes *everywhere* and anywhere you can imagine (like...on a pole hanging out bedroom windows =)

    I ?imagine? everyone's using DVB-S STBs to do receiving, and the recovered content is sent bv HDMI or suchlike to the teevee unit ; will be interesting to see what you discover.

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    Ok boys and girls, here it is!
    Pics are big - 5Mb. I can reduce size if need be, so let me know.

    Just a weird note: The screws heads have 'dimples' imprinted on them - Three dots, but on some, different places - didn't make a difference as to what they screwed into (only two types for the back panel - thin outer edges - but different dimple config, only four 'thick' for around the inner mounts).
    I was surprised at how little there was to this tv. Two boards! PS and Controller/Tuner.
    Two black speakers at the bottom and the cover for the 'joystick' control area. I have undone anything else yet.

    I include these pics.
    I have not plugged it in.
    All the caps look ok

    Tomorrow, I'll pop the stands back on and remove the lower panel that covers the joystick and ribbons from the tuner board.

    BEFORE: I plug it in, should I check the caps whilst in circuit? I don't have a ESR meter, so maybe I should just get a 'feel' for them?

    I'm a bit worried - ha ha - that it all looks so clean, no dust at all. The screen is totally unmarked, ner a finger print laddie...

    So here we go with the photo's...


















    I'm glad it's finally on my desk. Hard for me to explain the hassle to get it...

    GT250.

  • #25
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    Power it up, grab multimeter, check here first ;


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    Tks Wotnot, will be checking that late today.

    I start work early 5am so I'm in bed by 8. So i can't be working on this stuff from 6ish. So please bear with my early 'after night' replies.

    I did a quick check on the PS PCB and it's been made for various models. Under the three top right R's, there's a small Silver Solder 'dot' in the middle option. top is 47", middle is 55" and lower 50".

    Just a fast check these boards can be got from Aliexpress for $19USD new - and a few in Australia for about $80 used! So haven't spent too much time making sure they are the dead set correct versions.

    But where's the fun in just doing a board swap?

  • #27
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    so if that TV was only sold into the middle east , did someone go to the trouble of bringing it out here , when they migrated? Is it even 240V ?

  • #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by VroomVroom View Post
    so if that TV was only sold into the middle east , did someone go to the trouble of bringing it out here , when they migrated? Is it even 240V ?


  • #29
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    Ok. Some measurements done and - Flashing back light, which I assume is not good - lol!

    Vroom: When I typed the model number in it all came up 'around' that area and as it had a UK plug on it, I just put two and two together
    Where I work we do get a fair bit 'travelers' stuff.

    Ok. Not sure if this 14Mb video will work. Please let me know:
    EDIT:EDIT - Didn't work through Imgur - here's a G-Drive link.
    Hopefully, that works... LOL! You might have to Download it to see it... Sorry guys...!

    On turn on, the back light is flickering. Video is top right corner.


    On the 'Tuner' board, i found HDMI 1 (ARC) socket to be broken off the PCB at the front - I have now resoldered it - I thought all HMDI's were ARC...?


    I've found an old DVD player that shows the main screen, Hoping that on HDMI it might show up ok but after the flashing screen, maybe not...

    WOTNOT: I have measured that '18' connection: See below.

    Here are some Voltages... With power on.
    The 460v cap Big purple is reading 400vdc
    C802 & 801 350's (top left), are floating around 240-260vdc
    C224 & 219 160's (middle near top), are floating around 102-110vdc
    C805 200 (top middle), floating at 110-117vdc

    The thing in the lower right '12S-LP03' is reading 50vAC

    Double purple strip R 250v near 460v cap, is reading ZERO volts but Ω is ok.
    D603 next to purple R is 135vdc

    R246, 201, 228, top right are 24vdc
    R 202 is 12vdc

    WOTNOT:

    gnd & gnd are ok.
    12v is 12vdc and NC was 24vdc
    12v & 12v were both 12vdc
    PIDM2 and PIDM1 are both 2.4vdc
    Pwr on was 3.4vdc
    DRV-on was 3.5vdc

    Near the mains pwr, the Red fuse is ok.
    When I tested VA101 (next to the mains pwr - SVC 621-14), GND on ohms it was quickly pulsing, beeping.
    VA101 on the Blue leg was reading 1.4vAC and 2545vAC on the other leg which is close to the Red F.

    Overall, all the components look ok.

    That's all I can test this afternoon people. Please let me know what other avenue I can take..

    Hope your xmas day is a good one.
    Cheers,
    GT250.
    Last edited by GT250; 24-12-20 at 05:41 PM.

  • #30
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    Hi Guys.

    UPDATE:
    At the top of the board is a PB01 socket.

    Looking left to right: LED+ LED- is reading 135vdc.

    The other side LED+ LED- (next to the 200v cap), is fluctuating like crazy, down to 10vdc and all over the place - in time with the flashes.


    Does anyone live around Camden South NSW?
    I might have found a brand new PSU board. On eBay. Listing says only Pickup. Only a THREE times seller!!?? Wants $40 for it.
    Haven't tried to contact him. Awaiting to hear from you guys.



    Please note the Model Selection DOT for LGP55-14PL (top rightish) - looks correct.

    Aliexpress has a new board for $75aud - BUT MAKES BIG WARNING over the model section dot..!



    Different REV's but newer than the one I have...

    What do you think..?

  • #31
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    Sounds like a bad led in the backlight maybe.
    What if you pull the + wire from the plug for the right hand side led ? See if the tele will start then.

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  • #32
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    Pic of bottomside of PSU board may be insightful

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  • #33
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    Morning people...
    Whilst it was dark I decided to see the light show...

    I unplugged the 18 connector and the flashing stops!
    This cable runs to the 'Control Board' - so I may have been a tad premature about obtaining a PSU board

    Wotnot: I came across a LED Diver IC - which I assume is on the underside of the PSU board. I'm yet to undo that board, but will later in the day.

    LoopyL You mean this one...


    Guys, you wouldn't think that if the HDMI 1 socket was broken and 'arcing' away it could have damaged the control board..?

    Cheers,
    GT250.

  • #34
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    Here's some photo's of the underside of the PSU Board.

    Red arrow is where the LED connection goes. Middle is the driver IC.



    NB: Slight discolouration, due to heat? What is the component that is casuing that on the front side - that Black thing below the 160v caps ??


    All of board.



    I've had a close look at the components and they seem to be ok..!

  • #35
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    Thanks for the pics ....could just be the photo, but are these solder-joints ok? (center pin of mosfet, 4 pins left side of transformer)..they and a few others look hinky in the image





    I unplugged the 18 connector and the flashing stops!
    More clarity.... by flashing stops, do you mean backlights continue to run without flicker?

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    Double purple strip R 250v near 460v cap, is reading ZERO volts but Ω is ok.
    D603 next to purple R is 135vd this is sus as its a fuse
    I suspect that you may have your meter on the wrong part of the circuit Ie dc black lead goes to the neg rail not ground pos to what you want to test ?????unless you are testing inside the dotted line which has NO isolation from ground or 230v earth measuring between the neg rail and ground will give erroneous readings if the led back lights are flashing theres nothing wrong with them and your fault is in the p/s not the control bd thats only the load and when you disconnect it , it takes the load off the p/s and carries on as it should , have a little look at r112 where the board has changed colour you will have to unsolder one end to check it as its in the dotted area good luck don

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    As Don suggested, measure R112 and also check C112. Those mosfet solder pins do look suss. maybe touch them up and any other that look suss.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GT250 View Post

    LoopyL You mean this one...



    GT250.
    Yes, that's the one I was referring to.

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  • #39
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    Morning people
    Will be doing all this today


    Wotnot: Those solder joints are ok. Just the photo.

    Hinekadon: D603 is BYV10X 600P - :Ultrafast Power Diode. I'll see if there's any voltages on it.

    What - Where - is F1? Under the Purple Fuse, it says EL27.

    So F3 is a fuse and is Purple Double Striped - Rated for 3.17A?


    Are you saying that voltage should be crossing that F3 Double Purple Fuse? But I'm mixing up the DMMS negs and pos's??
    Will be looking at R112 and C112

    Johnno: I double checked and it just the camera angle, with a touch of shadow showing the 'black'.

    Loopy: Will disconnect that LED2 + connection - after I check that F3 fuse and R112 and C112.

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    Ok. Update, before i have to go and have lunch with the oldies...

    D603 on the rights side (near to the green R's), is reading 160vac and the left side 136vac

    The double stripped purple F3 or F101 is ok and reads 135ish vac and so onto LB111.

    R112 is reading 1.5MOhms

    C112 is 100uf and is reading 105uf.

    Have resoldered those mosfets points just for the heck of it.

    Loopy. Undid the LED+ (Blue wire) and the TV didn't fire up at all. No flashes. Put the blue back in and the tv acts as it did before. Flashes with the LG logo at the start etc.


    Thanks for everyone's help so far people.
    GT250.

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