Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: HOW-TO: Bosch/EDM Direct Link Cable (if you've been unable to DIY one so far)

  1. #1
    Junior Member minitechie_94's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    72
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
    Rep Power
    170
    Reputation
    70

    Default HOW-TO: Bosch/EDM Direct Link Cable (if you've been unable to DIY one so far)

    Hello all,

    It's been a long time since I have posted but wanted to share a breakthrough regarding the hard-to-find and often-sought "CC808" EDM/Bosch Direct Link Cable.

    A lot of people have probably followed this and then struggled with either flaky connections or complete inability to connect at all with either ALINK (DOS) or A-Link Plus (Windows).

    On all the different branded Arduino units I have previously tried (Freetronics, Duinotech, China clones) I had no luck even when in "tri-state" mode. I have also tried with TTL to RS-232 units and a previous TTL to USB unit with no luck.

    Today I decided to try again and picked up a different unit with switchable 3V3/5V logic input from Jaycar (part no XC4464) based on the FT232. After downloading the FTDI drivers from the product page and using the 5V input, ALINK immediately connected to my panel.

    No matter how you feel about these panels, there are still tons in the wild evidently. I was successful in using ALINK on a MacBook in DOSBox by using the serial port, able to Direct Connect to a Solution 880.

    The Solutions definitely use 5V TTL on the Auxiliary Module header for PC communication. Many cheaper serial adapters, whether to RS-232 or USB, and cloned Arduinos seem to use 3V3 TTL only which doesn't drive the Solution to respond. With the 5V logic, it established a connection, syncing the system time to the panel.

    The Auxiliary module pins go to the particular adapter as follows. Pin 3 from left on the auxiliary module header goes to RXD on the adapter, Pin 4 goes to GND, Pin 7 goes to TXD. I am currently unable to try the newer A-Link Plus software as I don't have a Windows PC or laptop handy at the moment, but the DOS ALINK software worked perfectly through DOSBox using the directserial module linked to my adapter's "tty" device.

    Whether you want to make a replacement cable for RS-232 or USB, it does seem that the Direct Link Cable was just as expected on here - it's a TTL to serial adapter with a pin header on one end and a serial port on the other. There is no other logic running as far as I can tell and I assume that it would be just as easy to use any other 5V TTL converter.

    I have done nothing else except use ALINK at this point in time - if I find anything regarding the protocols or using the codepad simulator or other functions I will post in this thread.

    Hope this helps anyone who was looking for one.
    Last edited by minitechie_94; 03-03-21 at 03:40 PM.

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to minitechie_94 For This Useful Post:

    jonnrichards (27-04-21),secure (04-03-21)



Look Here ->
  • #2
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    45
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
    Rep Power
    42
    Reputation
    230

    Default

    Didn't Sol880's use SDI2 BUS? In which case, surely you could use the IUI-SOL-ADAPTER Direct Link Adaptor and save yourself all the hassle of doing this? In any case, the 880's are now obsolete. Better to rip them out and put something decent in.

    Sorry - not meaning to be disparaging. It's great that you have the time, interest and motivation to put effort into this. A good learning process. I think your aptitude could better be served by investigating how to re-use the one-off defaulting chip for Solution 6000's

  • #3
    Junior Member minitechie_94's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    72
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
    Rep Power
    170
    Reputation
    70

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CT4 View Post
    Didn't Sol880's use SDI2 BUS? In which case, surely you could use the IUI-SOL-ADAPTER Direct Link Adaptor and save yourself all the hassle of doing this? In any case, the 880's are now obsolete. Better to rip them out and put something decent in.

    Sorry - not meaning to be disparaging. It's great that you have the time, interest and motivation to put effort into this. A good learning process. I think your aptitude could better be served by investigating how to re-use the one-off defaulting chip for Solution 6000's
    Its possible the ICP-CC408 does use a different bus, or something like an Ultima. The linked article used a Solution 16 and just about every second business or home I've been in has had some variation of an old Solution.

    The 880 and below that advertise the CC808 Direct Link Cable as an accessory have to support that basic 5V TTL "protocol" - not sure about baud rates but can assume there's no flow control or other stuff going on as there's only 3 lines. In my case, the USB serial port was talking directly to ALINK through DOSBox, just piped through the tty device. Its possible there's more going on but it's literally a 3-wire "protocol".

    Only reason I've made this post is because people are still seeking these cables as the old panels are so prevalent especially in residential use. The 880s (at least) are obsolete but if they're still functional work just fine - no bells and whistles and no monitoring if you have the NBN now, but fine for a local panel as I use mine for (using the programmable outputs and some keyswitch trickery I intend to add some automation capacity, hence why I did this in the first place).

    Also there's something seriously satisfying about programming the alarm in DOS with a mechanical keyboard clacking away like an 80's movie villain as opposed to the mushy keys and obnoxious beeps on the codepad - the girlfriend likes the sound of the clicky keys as well thankfully but that's enough not-so-humble bragging/snobbery for one post.

  • #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    45
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
    Rep Power
    42
    Reputation
    230

    Default

    For your reference, just about any panel with a dialler can work on NBN with a 3G/4G communicator (eg. Permaconn PM45, NESS 4G dialler, AAP ESL-2 4G POD, etc). A lot of these panels also supported programming via dialler - another way of doing it without the CC808 adaptor. I reckon you'd have far more satisfaction installing a Solution 6000, and programming that on your PC over IP. Integrate lighting, doors, sprinklers, etc. Has a pretty good app too.

    EDIT: I love my old-school keyboard

  • The Following User Says Thank You to CT4 For This Useful Post:

    minitechie_94 (05-03-21)

  • #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    3
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Rep Power
    0
    Reputation
    10

    Default

    This is just what I need, thank you!
    Have you got a link for the DOS ALink software? I cannot find it anywhere.

  • #6
    Junior Member minitechie_94's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    72
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
    Rep Power
    170
    Reputation
    70

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jonnrichards View Post
    This is just what I need, thank you!
    Have you got a link for the DOS ALink software? I cannot find it anywhere.
    I don't have a link online - I was lucky that I had a copy on an older PC that I backed up. But I have confirmed that it does work with the newer A-Link Plus from Bosch - just make sure your COM settings are correct obviously. I might upload a copy of the ALINK for DOS if I can find the copy I used, surely it's vaporware by now but not sure if it's against forum rules to do so.

    Glad I was able to help you in any case - was frustrating that most adaptors don't list 5V as many cheaper ICs seem to be strictly 3V3 now.

  • #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    3
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Rep Power
    0
    Reputation
    10

    Default

    Ok, thanks. I haven't had success with A-Link Plus so was hanging my hopes on the older version!
    My adapter switches between 3.3 and 5 so all good.
    Do you recall what you selected for control panel type? I can only see Solution 2000 and 3000 in A-Link Plus.

  • #8
    Junior Member minitechie_94's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    72
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
    Rep Power
    170
    Reputation
    70

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jonnrichards View Post
    Ok, thanks. I haven't had success with A-Link Plus so was hanging my hopes on the older version!
    My adapter switches between 3.3 and 5 so all good.
    Do you recall what you selected for control panel type? I can only see Solution 2000 and 3000 in A-Link Plus.
    Try this page:

    Once you get the right panel type you need to make sure your modem/serial settings are correct. Checking Device Manager is good as well to make sure your COM port is ready and configured properly for your adaptor. Then you need to make sure the subscriber ID is programmed correctly in the panel to ANYTHING BUT 0 and make sure the ID matches that in ALINK. This step is sort of buried but without matching, non-zero subscriber IDs, the panel WILL NOT connect.

  • #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    3
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Rep Power
    0
    Reputation
    10

    Default

    Thank you. Will give it a go on the weekend.

  • #10
    Junior Member minitechie_94's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    72
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
    Rep Power
    170
    Reputation
    70

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jonnrichards View Post
    Thank you. Will give it a go on the weekend.
    I'm not sure if it's required but I remember making sure the installer's codes matched - Bosch default is 1234 but not certain if your panel will have a different code, obviously. If you have issues connecting, try that as well because I think it might be a requirement.

  • #11
    Senior Member secure's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    W.A
    Posts
    782
    Thanks
    146
    Thanked 130 Times in 117 Posts
    Rep Power
    234
    Reputation
    2089

    Default

    Yeah I think the installer code and account code(Subs ID) need to match between panel and software to do connection.

  • #12
    Junior Member minitechie_94's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    72
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
    Rep Power
    170
    Reputation
    70

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by secure View Post
    Yeah I think the installer code and account code(Subs ID) need to match between panel and software to do connection.
    Always thankful, Secure! That would make sense to prevent wardialling - EDM seemed to be pretty progressive about securing (pardon the pun) their systems from telephone hackery

  • Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •