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Thread: Fridge how to lower temperature

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    Wrong way -- more resistance not less

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    Your other option is to replace the resister with a pot

    you can then tweak the temp as needed

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnie5 View Post
    Your other option is to replace the resister with a pot

    you can then tweak the temp as needed
    Thanks for that, the fridge already has a temperature controller with 1 to 6 settings and if possible I would like to use that.

    I think once I get the resistance in the "sweet spot" this will be all good

    thomo

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    Just get a couple more 9k resistors and put them in series. That will then raise the resistance to 27K.
    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

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    Just been to Woolies this morning and their Deli display cabinet shows -0.7 degrees C.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gulliver View Post
    Just been to Woolies this morning and their Deli display cabinet shows -0.7 degrees C.
    Factoid time wrt commercially produced beers ...it's usual to introduce into the product flow (dosing), an enzyme derived from paw-paws to lower the freezing point of the product to around -4 C (@ 1bar), to assist in processing (passing through pumps, heat exchangers, the carbonating unit etc), to help prevent the product foaming and icing up dimple plates. This quality of controlled foaming becomes important later on, when it comes to filling containers with beer (cans/bottles in particular, not so much kegs), to achieve correct fill volume whilst minimizing any air (oxygen) from being picked up/trapped in the container (tolerance down at 0.2ppm dissolved O2), in the time it takes for the bottle/can to come off the filling machine, and get to the crowning/closure machine to have the lid put on, all the while ensuring you don't lose the carbonation level of the product at the same time =) If you ever want to stump someone with the question "what's the last thing added to a bottle of beer before the lid goes on?", the correct answer is 'a high pressure squirt of filtered and de-airated water'

    Anyhow, point is commercially produced beer in AU is mostly all based of high gravity brews, blended back with 60-70% water, and in essence it's that dilution with water, that the production process is designed to correct, and the edible antifreeze is part of that equation. The design spec we worked with entertained a chilled serving temp of 0-4C ..yes, highly engineered product...this had to do with the degree of degassing, and the amount of head produced if the product was poured or dispensed from a tap. They engineer every aspect of it ; some beer types, you'd have to dose with a seaweed based thickening agent, just to get them to produce a head like they should (heavy draughts, stouts etc).

    Once OP adds the calculated resistor value, he should be fine - if he wants to PM me his snail address, I'll send him one

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    I have 9 and 4.7 K resistors thats all my local shop had and I tried 9 + 4.7 yesterday and on 2 it was -1.1 and on 3 about 3.6 and being Midstrength it was freezing at that.

    I will try 2 x 9K today. I like to run it overnight after making changes. There is also a difference in temp from top to bottom that need to be allowed for.

    Did a bit too much sampling yesterday but in search of perfection I will keep trying

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    Quote Originally Posted by RedXT View Post
    I have 9 and 4.7 K resistors thats all my local shop had and I tried 9 + 4.7 yesterday and on 2 it was -1.1 and on 3 about 3.6 and being Midstrength it was freezing at that.

    I will try 2 x 9K today. I like to run it overnight after making changes. There is also a difference in temp from top to bottom that need to be allowed for.

    Did a bit too much sampling yesterday but in search of perfection I will keep trying

    Ah yes, lite/mid strength beers...different part of process, post filtration...ie; instead of sending the bright beer to packaging/racking plants, it'd go to a holding tank to be processed by the DAB plant - 3 stage vacuum distill the alcohol from a portion of the bright beer to a buffer tank, and then using a controlled 3-way blend valve, combine this liquor with water and raw bright beer to hit the product alc/vol spec, and recarbonate as necessary. Net result is a dilution of the antifreeze component, and now with nearly 90% water content instead of full strength beer's 60-70%, hey presto you get beer iceblocks =)

    This 6 position temp switch - is it definitely electrical, or physical (vent choke)?

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    Quote Originally Posted by wotnot View Post
    Ah yes, lite/mid strength beers...different part of process, post filtration...ie; instead of sending the bright beer to packaging/racking plants, it'd go to a holding tank to be processed by the DAB plant - 3 stage vacuum distill the alcohol from a portion of the bright beer to a buffer tank, and then using a controlled 3-way blend valve, combine this liquor with water and raw bright beer to hit the product alc/vol spec, and recarbonate as necessary. Net result is a dilution of the antifreeze component, and now with nearly 90% water content instead of full strength beer's 60-70%, hey presto you get beer iceblocks =)

    This 6 position temp switch - is it definitely electrical, or physical (vent choke)?
    Definitely electrical it has a choke vent for the freezer

    Yesterday with the 18K resistance it ran really good, controller set on 3 it ran at about 1deg and on 4 around -2deg at the bottom shelf. Stocked up with beer around 8PM and ran overnight

    This morning with controller still on 4 it was back to 1deg so I will turn it up to 5 and see what happens



    cheers thomo
    Last edited by RedXT; 12-09-21 at 10:23 AM.

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    5 was too much and went to -4 by 3:00pm and freezing everything so its back to 4, I will leave it at that for a few days to see how it goes

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    Well after a few days still set to 4 all seems good, running around -1, -2 deg C, beer is not freezing. This also allows me to easily turn the temperature back down

    I haven"t tried it but I reckon if I turned it back to 1 It would run around +3, +4 that I started at.

    Thanks espicialy to Wotnot and others for you're input. If you are ever in Kilmore you know where to get a cold beer

    Cheers Thomo

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    Quote Originally Posted by RedXT View Post
    Well after a few days still set to 4 all seems good, running around -1, -2 deg C, beer is not freezing. This also allows me to easily turn the temperature back down

    I haven"t tried it but I reckon if I turned it back to 1 It would run around +3, +4 that I started at.

    Thanks espicialy to Wotnot and others for you're input. If you are ever in Kilmore you know where to get a cold beer

    Cheers Thomo

    Good to hear it worked out ~ so what was the final resistor value you used, 18K?

    I'd actually calculated an equivalent resistance for the thermistor spec, and pretty much ignored the temp control action/resistance (and not knowing where it was in circuit), so it doesn't surprise me the arrived at value is less than what the maths said =)

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    Quote Originally Posted by wotnot View Post
    Good to hear it worked out ~ so what was the final resistor value you used, 18K?

    I'd actually calculated an equivalent resistance for the thermistor spec, and pretty much ignored the temp control action/resistance (and not knowing where it was in circuit), so it doesn't surprise me the arrived at value is less than what the maths said =)
    Yep 18K and u need to run for 24hrs or more after changing resistance for things to settle

    And there a few variables that u can't allow for such as the accuracy of the bloke doing the measuring etc
    Last edited by RedXT; 19-09-21 at 01:47 PM.

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