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Thread: Testing Shark Shield Freedom 7

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    Default Testing Shark Shield Freedom 7

    Looking at buying a second hand version of the above, I understand older versions cannot/will not be repaired by the company, and with some use/abuse, the unit may look OK but not perform. I do not wish to purchase the company tester prior to my purchase, but would like some advice on testing with a multi meter, to me it looks like the unit is charging up a capacitor or 2 then discharging. I have an electronics background so am OK safety wise with testing Hi voltage, Hi uf capacitors. Either reply on the forum or PM me.

    (Background: Have a 1/2 cabin Boat, but when towing our Tandem Van SWMBO now no longer wants to tow our boat so either bring a Yak with electric motor and Lithium Battery or 3m inflatable with small HP 2 stroke. SWMBO considers I am shark bait in the yak or inflatable)

    Thanks Peter



    and more info:
    Last edited by PeterInSa; 30-11-22 at 06:47 PM.



Look Here ->
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterInSa View Post
    Looking at buying a second hand version of the above, I understand older versions cannot/will not be repaired by the company, and with some use/abuse, the unit may look OK but not perform. I do not wish to purchase the company tester prior to my purchase, but would like some advice on testing with a multi meter, to me it looks like the unit is charging up a capacitor or 2 then discharging. I have an electronics background so am OK safety wise with testing Hi voltage, Hi uf capacitors. Either reply on the forum or PM me.

    (Background: Have a 1/2 cabin Boat, but when towing our Tandem Van SWMBO now no longer wants to tow our boat so either bring a Yak with electric motor and Lithium Battery or 3m inflatable with small HP 2 stroke. SWMBO considers I am shark bait in the yak or inflatable)

    Thanks Peter



    and more info:
    Watching that Video puts my bullshit detector into overload.
    He talks about two nodes when there is only one cable. He proceeds to place the probes on two different points on the same cable.
    If there are two actual cables in the loom, then they are looking for a voltage switching between the two.
    A multimeter will show this. As it is pulsing, no accurate voltage will be measured. Unless your meter has a peak hold function.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reschs View Post
    Watching that Video puts my bullshit detector into overload.
    He talks about two nodes when there is only one cable. He proceeds to place the probes on two different points on the same cable.
    If there are two actual cables in the loom, then they are looking for a voltage switching between the two.
    A multimeter will show this. As it is pulsing, no accurate voltage will be measured. Unless your meter has a peak hold function.
    There are two electrodes, one near the top, and one at the bottom of the cable (hence why he coils the cable so the two electrodes are side by side). And the tester is simply detecting that a pulse is actually being produced. I don't see any bullshit to be alarmed about.


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    Quote Originally Posted by bob_m_54 View Post
    There are two electrodes, one near the top, and one at the bottom of the cable (hence why he coils the cable so the two electrodes are side by side). And the tester is simply detecting that a pulse is actually being produced. I don't see any bullshit to be alarmed about.

    I did say "If there are two actual cables in the loom" . Should have said electrodes.
    Bullshit detector still active as to the usefulness of this device.
    Happy to be wrong.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reschs View Post
    I did say "If there are two actual cables in the loom" . Should have said electrodes.
    Bullshit detector still active as to the usefulness of this device.
    Happy to be wrong.
    Yes, the efficacy of the device is questionable, even though the theory says it should work. Here's a test the University of WA did a few years back, which concluded the device works most of the time, but not 100% of the time, and is limited to within a very small radius.


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    Re ( limited to within a very small radius.)
    A good thing and a Bad.
    Good: if using it while fishing, with line more than 4m from the Yak or inflatable it will not scare the fish/squid away.
    Bad: Would like more than say a 4m distance between me and a Great White.

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    An earlier study by the South Australian Research and Development Institute also found the device was effective in deterring great whites, but noted it didn't "deter or repel this species in all situations, nor did it repel all individuals".

    And user reports back this up. A South Australian abalone diver told CHOICE he knew of two people who had been attacked while wearing a Shark Shield.

    Put my money on something like that, banking on it saving my life? Obviously you're skilled enough in the water, to ensure you're only around the 2 sharks species it's been able to prove it sometimes works for?
    So you won't feel like making a warranty claim when a Bull shark or Grey Nurse takes your leg off, because this device hasn't been proven to work with those species...any of the time?

    It's like buying a bullet proof vest that's only been proven to stop one or two types of rounds....some of the time =)

    Save your money, and buy accident/life insurance instead.

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    Re (An earlier study by the South Australian Research and Development Institute also found the device was effective in deterring great whites, but noted it didn't "deter or repel this species in all situations, nor did it repel all individuals".

    Just the GW's that are around me. I wan'r live life to the fullest... with legs.

    Just purchased a unit from Cash Converters (90days warranty) with charger for $350, not the latest version its a GU1000B not the GU1000C. WA resident's with $200 rebate from state Gov. unit costs $449.

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    Getting back to your original question.
    Use a multimeter to test it.
    Probe on each electrode and you should see a pulsing voltage.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reschs View Post
    Getting back to your original question.
    Use a multimeter to test it.
    Probe on each electrode and you should see a pulsing voltage.
    LoL... no no no, you can't do that! A person's life may hang in the balance!

    That's why you have to use their dedicated tester (and don't include any instructions of how to test it with a DMM).

    By connecting their dedicated tester, it simulates the load of both electrodes being submersed in ocean saline water, which triggers the unit into action, blinking the lights on the dedicated tester...

    ...so....

    ...what you need is a 60litre plastic garbage bin filled with ocean, submerge both unit electrodes into that, and then get your DMM probes and measure for any voltage.

    How much voltage?...who knows, trade secret, and you better take that DMM measurement under water, just to be sure.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wotnot View Post
    LoL... no no no, you can't do that! A person's life may hang in the balance!

    That's why you have to use their dedicated tester (and don't include any instructions of how to test it with a DMM).

    By connecting their dedicated tester, it simulates the load of both electrodes being submersed in ocean saline water, which triggers the unit into action, blinking the lights on the dedicated tester...

    ...so....

    ...what you need is a 60litre plastic garbage bin filled with ocean, submerge both unit electrodes into that, and then get your DMM probes and measure for any voltage.

    How much voltage?...who knows, trade secret, and you better take that DMM measurement under water, just to be sure.
    The original request was to find out if it is working or not. Go/No Go.
    My suggestion covers that only.

    A full test as per manufacturer's specifications can only be done with their test procedure documents.
    Your assumption of the complexity of their tester is very generous.

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    Your assumption of the complexity of their tester is very generous.
    Generously sarcastic actually =)

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    Here is an Amazon review that shows how to reliably test it without any equipment:



    The reviewer speaks of a LIGHT electric shock.
    I can't imagine such a device would be for sale if it were capable of dangerous electric shock.

    These weak electric pulses would explain why it doesn't always work. It is more like an electric field that causes the shark discomfort, not 'electrocute' it.
    A hungry shark in rage would probably not notice it and just go for the beef!

    I would consider a kevlar reinforced neoprene suit. Not 100% reliable either but more likely to REDUCE the risk of serious injury.
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 11-12-22 at 06:25 PM.
    Update: A deletion of features that work well and ain't broke but are deemed outdated in order to add things that are up to date and broken.
    Compatibility: A word soon to be deleted from our dictionaries as it is outdated.
    Humans: Entities that are not only outdated but broken... AI-self-learning-update-error...terminate...terminate...

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    ..aka: 'the placebo effect' =)

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