Will this Work, Micro Inverters with my spare panels

[Mr 672A]

I was given ( a carton of Beer) 8 X190 Watt Solar PV panels (1575X810MM) complete with the alloy rails, the Gal brackets for the truss, the clamps to clamp the panel to the rails and all I what I want to is charge 2 X 2200 Va CyberPower UPS like the one on ebay possible two complete circuits one for each UPS. "eg" One Solar panel, one Micro Inverter, one power point for one UPS X 2 systems .


Now I know the Panels are DC and give you the specs.
Max power =190W
Open Circuit Voltage =44.85V
Short circuit Current =5.62 Amp
Rated Voltage 37.20V
Rated Current 5.11 Amps
Max Voltage DC 1000 Volts

But I want to buy 2 Micro Inverters for two panels (one for each panel)
Will one of these micro inverters with one Solar panel charge the 2200VA Cyberpower Value 2200ELCD Line Interactive UPS ( PS I will have a dedicated 240V GPO Next to the UPS for each circuit.)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/175328570887?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D7770 08%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D202207 05100511%26meid%3Dde8e144136a24b1aa7803006fcac0b3a %26pid%3D101524%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D1753285 70887%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3D RecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid= p2380057.c101524.m146925&_trkparms=pageci%3A4f9930 e6-b25f-11ed-8a91-ea8c7ba85f01%7Cparentrq%3A771f70181860aa7148c8ccc6 ffffc94c%7Ciid%3A1

I can get the above Micro Inverter cheaper (use for 230V)

[Uncle Fester]

Simple answer:
No

Complicated answer:
What you are showing are grid-tie inverters. Forget that. You have to get that all approved by the energy provider and done by professionals. For a grid-tie system it would make more sense to use all the panels and a full size inverter but I doubt the installers will even use your Ebay stuff.

If I understand correctly you want to charge a UPS which is already an inverter but with a battery.
So what you might want is to charge that battery.

If you can access that battery and connect it's terminals with one of these connected to your solar panel :

you are good to go.

If you want to run the UPS off-grid you need an external battery and an inverter capable of the power the UPS can handle, that would be very expensive.

Edit:
The batteries in a typical UPS are not very large. A standard PC might run 30-60 minutes. Even only a single 180W panel might be a bit overkill for them.
It might help if you explain why you want to do this.

[Mr 672A]

Simple answer:
No

Complicated answer:
What you are showing are grid-tie inverters. Forget that. You have to get that all approved by the energy provider and done by professionals. For a grid-tie system it would make more sense to use all the panels and a full size inverter but I doubt the installers will even use your Ebay stuff.

If I understand correctly you want to charge a UPS which is already an inverter but with a battery.
So what you might want is to charge that battery.

If you can access that battery and connect it's terminals with one of these connected to your solar panel :

you are good to go.

If you want to run the UPS off-grid you need an external battery and an inverter capable of the power the UPS can handle, that would be very expensive.

Edit:
The batteries in a typical UPS are not very large. A standard PC might run 30-60 minutes. Even only a single 180W panel might be a bit overkill for them.
It might help if you explain why you want to do this.

Sorry Fester I must have confused you.
Option one that might be no good

Option 1/
I have a Solar system on the house now but the one I'm talking about NOW the new one is completely away from the grid, "eg" does not come close to the power of the house. It like if you live in central Australia and the closes power for you is 500 miles away. Once again I want a complete separate system away from the house power supply. I will have 2X Solar 190 Watt Panels, 2X Micro inverters, 2X AC 2.5MM cable and 2X 240V power point that will deliver with 230V during the day only and have 2X UPS power supply. That it. Again not connected to the house or the grid.

Option 2/
Fester way of doing this. See we had three times in the last 18 months that we had no power in the street and possibly in the future we might get more of this events so if this is you what will you do totally off grid to get 230-240V AC in you house on a completely separate power point just to run my Satellite TV room, say 2x 24 inch LCD Monitors + two Satellite or possible more Decoders, Charging Mobile Phones if the towers are still working (there batteries can be flat to so no mobile phone too) once again yes run a two or three small 24 inch LCD TV, 3 Satellite Decoders, Possible A radio, and basic essential of life like 240V appliance that does not use much power in Watts.
As you know I have 8X190 Watt Panels and that's it, so how will you go to do this project yes better capacity will be good, (Possible forget my UPS) buy bigger batteries. Now I agree using the UPS could be no good because the battery capacity is no good as you have said a typical Computer with a 24 inch LCD Monitor will kill the UPS battery in one hour or little more.
Once again what will you do, Again use my Solar 190 Watt Panels what else do I need to buy to do this project if I decide to go ahead. I'm will of spending $1 to 2 K on this
Thanks Fester

[Mr 672A]

Had a look at my 24 inch monitors, they use 27watts @ 230V AC even i use 3 of them that is 81 watts total with 3 Satellite Decoders with 240V to 12 Volt DC power pack. I say in exaggerating total of 100W @ 240 V with the sat positioner/tracker so I say a load of 200W max with the tv's for 4 to 5 hours (don't fully discharge the batteries) at Night only so change the battery or batteries during the day and watch the tv around the world during the night. Remember I have 8X 190 watt panel with this spec.
Max power =190W
Open Circuit Voltage =44.85V
Short circuit Current =5.62 Amp
Rated Voltage 37.20V
Rated Current 5.11 Amps
Max Voltage DC 1000 Volts

[Uncle Fester]

This should be suitable for an off-grid/backup power system for that load in your price range:

2 of these LiFePO4 batteries wired parallel for 12V -
80% DoD is totally fine with these and they have a built in BMS.

An 800VA inverter -

This solar charge controller -
+ highly recommended bluetooth dongle to optimise for LiFePO4 (float 13.6V, absorption 14.4V 1h, equalisation off) and monitor charge state, etc -

and most importantly a qualified electrician to install this.

You need to include the cost for the correctly rated wiring, certified solar circuit DC breakers, enclosures and how you intend to bring the power into the building.
This must be discussed with the electrician.

Unfortunately those panels have a very high OC voltage so you can only connect 3 in series to the solar charge controller. There is one for 250V but that will break your bank.

You can connect 3 panels in series and a second group of 3 in series, then parallel together using y-cables and correctly rated diodes (10A would work, better 20A)
This will give you about 135V input for the 150V rated solar charger.
You can't match the other 2 panels that are left over but 6 panels will do the job.

[Mr 672A]

and most importantly a qualified electrician to install this.

You need to include the cost for the correctly rated wiring, certified solar circuit DC breakers, enclosures and how you intend to bring the power into the building.
This must be discussed with the electrician.

Unfortunately those panels have a very high OC voltage so you can only connect 3 in series to the solar charge controller. There is one for 250V but that will break your bank.

You can connect 3 panels in series and a second group of 3 in series, then parallel together using y-cables and correctly rated diodes (10A would work, better 20A)
This will give you about 135V input for the 150V rated solar charger.
You can't match the other 2 panels that are left over but 6 panels will do the job.

I'm a retired Electrician and have done some work on Solar Systems or fixed ours (dead panel).
Yes I work that out before I read your post as 4 Panels is too high (180V) for max Solar Controller that is rated at 150V DC and as you say the panels OC is to high to start with as typical 190 Solar panel at 44.85V so 4 of them is out of the question but 3 equals to 135V which is just under the controller max at 150V. Say I can do the lot under or on $2000. The total is with two batteries is $1653 plus buy those two Y cable connectors and 2 Solar panel Isolaters next to the panel itself.
Good Job when it gets colder as working on hot days is no good with my low BP
Like I said before just say to test If I had a constant full load of 200 Watts running my Sat gear and other and have 2X fully charged LiFePO4 batteries wired parallel for 12V how long will it last until Low battery voltage cut-off will come on.
I Could be wrong but is it 12 Hours for 2X100ah Batteries in parallel

Thanks Fester you are great asset for knowledge.

Y Connectors.

[Uncle Fester]

Like I said before just say to test If I had a constant full load of 200 Watts running my Sat gear and other and have 2X fully charged LiFePO4 batteries wired parallel for 12V how long will it last until Low battery voltage cut-off will come on.
I Could be wrong but is it 12 Hours for 2X100ah Batteries in parallel

I ran some tests a while back with a similar priced LiFePO4 battery using a 100W load on a single battery
and got a tad over 100Ah from fully charged to 10V cut off after about 12hours
So you are correct.
This is because the capacity of Lithium batteries is much less load dependent than Lead acid.
Occasionally discharging to 0% after a few cloudy days will not harm them, just not make it a habit.

You get a far longer service life by charging only up to 90%. This applies to all Lithium batteries
including the one in your phone.
You can set absorption the same as float (13.6V) in that solar charger I suggested to roughly achieve that.
I usually keep them charged at 10%-90% to get my 80% duty cycle.

Yes those Y-joiners but don't forget 2 of these diodes. One each on the positive side of each group before the Y:

[Mr 672A]

You can set absorption the same as float (13.6V) in that solar charger I suggested to roughly achieve that.
I usually keep them charged at 10%-90% to get my 80% duty cycle.

Yes those Y-joiners but don't forget 2 of these diodes. One each on the positive side of each group before the Y:

I will never go below 10% charge even that the batteries can handle it. Whats is the reason why to have the diodes in series of each group, Is it to stop back EMF and or just a fuse?

[Uncle Fester]

I will never go below 10% charge even that the batteries can handle it. Whats is the reason why to have the diodes in series of each group, Is it to stop back EMF and or just a fuse?

If one side gets shaded and the other not, you may have some power from the sunny side flowing into the shaded side without the diodes.

You might say there are no trees or anything that could partly shade the panels where you have them located very high.
I say you most likely still have birds. I know from experience that one load of excrement from a bush turkey (of which we have many) placed strategically over an individual cell can break the link of the whole series.

[Bigfella237]

~ an individual cell can break the link of the whole series.

Which is a big plus for micro-inverters.

[Uncle Fester]

Which is a big plus for micro-inverters.

???

An inverter (for off grid systems, which is what we are talking about here), no matter how small, is not directly connected to the solar panels.
It's role is to convert a lower relative stabile DC voltage from the battery to AC mains voltage.
There are some inverters with built in solar chargers but they are high power and usually very expensive or utter crap (as I have personally experienced).

What you probably mean is utilising several small (low rated) solar mppt CHARGERS, one for each group of solar panels. In extreme case one for each panel.
That way if they are all individually partly shaded you would always have the optimised power conversion from each strand.

Generally it is a good idea if you have panels shared on the west and the east of the roof to use two mppt chargers or one with 2 true inputs, rather than these blocking diodes.

However for 5Grubbish's low power setup, the increased cost is not worth it and he has more solar power than he needs to charge the suggested battery capacity.

[Mr 672A]

If one side gets shaded and the other not, you may have some power from the sunny side flowing into the shaded side without the diodes.

You might say there are no trees or anything that could partly shade the panels where you have them located very high.
I say you most likely still have birds. I know from experience that one load of excrement from a bush turkey (of which we have many) placed strategically over an individual cell can break the link of the whole series.

Yes understand now. Very, very early in the morning say Summer at 22/12/any year the longest day of the year or the shortest day of the year in Winter when the Sun comes up say 6 am in the morning all panels will be block but say by 6.30 am the sun gets higher panel 2 and 4 will have the sun but when the Sun reaches say 6.45 am all panels will have the Sun. The same goes in the arvo but the other way around. I'm blessed for sun on our Solar PV System. The Main Solar panels for the House is the same.

[Mr 672A]

I say you most likely still have birds. I know from experience that one load of excrement from a bush turkey (of which we have many) placed strategically over an individual cell can break the link of the whole series.

Luckily we have no bin chicken our way and the only big bird we get is magpies and that it. Rarely we have crows but at the same time I look at the panels every now and then to see what shi.t or big shi.t is on them

[Bigfella237]

??? ~ What you probably mean is utilising several small (low rated) solar mppt CHARGERS, one for each group of solar panels. ~

No, I'm talking about one micro-inverter per panel, such as an Enphase system (see here: )

Each and every panel has it's own inverter. If one panel stops producing for any reason it does NOT affect the output of any other panel(s), every panel's output can be monitored uniquely, and you can replace panels individually with pretty much any replacement panel, no need to replace groups of panels at a time and no real need to match groups of panels together.

The only downside, that I can see, is the price. And yes, they are significantly more expensive compared to your typical inverter.

[Uncle Fester]

No, I'm talking about one micro-inverter per panel, such as an Enphase system (see here: )

Each and every panel has it's own inverter. If one panel stops producing for any reason it does NOT affect the output of any other panel(s), every panel's output can be monitored uniquely, and you can replace panels individually with pretty much any replacement panel, no need to replace groups of panels at a time and no real need to match groups of panels together.

The only downside, that I can see, is the price. And yes, they are significantly more expensive compared to your typical inverter.

Well did cover that situation above:

???

In extreme case one for each panel.
That way if they are all individually partly shaded you would always have the optimised power conversion from each strand.

I would still suggest to use individual solar chargers powering one larger inverter, certainly more price efficient but achieves the same.

There seems to be a bit of confusion when people say inverter but mean a grid tied inverter coupled with the inbuilt solar charger.