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Thread: Philps Airfryer HD9240 Dead

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    Default Philps Airfryer HD9240 Dead

    Hi all,
    Ok. Where do I start.
    Last year my trusty A/F just stopped working after cooking a meal. There was no sound, it turned off as normal.
    Next day, it wouldn't turn on!

    On opening It I found that a 47Ω 2W R1 had literally crumbled to bits. The one in the middle.
    Ah ha, I thought, a blown Fuse. Easy peezy...! Off to JayCar I plodded.

    They only had 2x 23Ω 1W (I think from memory). I then 'made' this R1 47Ω 2W.

    The A/F still had no power. And then a DOH! moment and I tested the other fuse R2 and that had gone, finding hairline cracks in it! Jaycar only had a 47Ω 5W 'block' left.
    Then I noticed that C6 - 10uf 50v had gone. J/C only had a 63v, so that was ok.

    When I had finished, I plugged it in with wide hopeful pride, and BANG! Smoke drifting up from underneath the pcb.
    With a lump in my throat I turned it over to see that D1 had blown itself up!

    I have managed to purchase the Correct Fuses/R's bought 5 of them!
    Thinking that the IC might have gone due to the bang, I got two of those!


    This is the website that I found after I replaced the R's and it still wasn't working.

    As it is, the 'dual' R's are ok. The white block R2 is gone and C6 is gone. Plus that D1





    Top PCB:


    Blown D1:


    5W R:


    New Fuse R's



    New IC's and Fuse R's:







    I'm off to J/C in a bit and will grab a few more C6's.
    Thanks people



Look Here ->
  • #2
    LSemmens
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    It's just done as intended, fried everything it could! Sorry, best of luck attempting the repair, I've given up on these sorts of things so cannot even offer anything helpful.
    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

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    GT250 (13-03-23)

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    Lsemmens, yeah it - now - looks worse
    I just don't like throwing away things that can be repaired with a bit of brain storming.

    I've had the fryer for a long time and the new ones are in their hundreds. Just seemed a simple Fuse, but (i know, I know), just seems at his time a bit bigger.
    Just have some time on my hands now, after a horribilis last year.

    Cheers,
    GT250.

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    The photo of the PCB shows you have fitted two 47 ohm resistors in parallel for R1, ergo 23.5 ohm.
    You have stated that you fitted two 23 ohm in series.

    Please clarify.

    I would also check the 68nf blue cap.
    Last edited by Reschs; 12-03-23 at 07:22 PM.

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    GT250 (13-03-23)

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    Hi Reschs,

    As for the two 47Ω's, yes I realised my mistake when I took them out on Saturday and checked them and that White 5W one. I just sat back and thought what a stupid thing to do!
    At the time I guess, I had that Parallel and Series thing going through my mind and was looking for 23.5Ω + 23.5Ω =47Ω 2W...



    I'll check that Blue Cap when I get back home later Reschs.
    BTW, do you think I caused the D1 to blow due my 23.5Ω mistake?

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    Ok, Reschs,

    Checked the Blue capacitor and it's reading 45.8nF
    A bit of checking, it looks as though it should be 22uF...?

    I have checked the other diodes and they seem to be ok.

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    Examine the viper16 datasheet ~ best I can tell from the pictures taken, it's using circuit as per figure 19 ... not hard =)

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    GT250 (14-03-23)

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    Ok WOTNOT, I'll grab it when I get back.

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    I'm going to get one of those Blue Caps...
    Slow boat from China. Element 14 postage is $$$

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    Ok, an update.
    The Blue cap was going to take to long (it was giving readings), so I decided to put what new parts in and see what would happen.

    Put the new IC in.
    Put the 10uf 63v C6 cap in.
    Put the new fuse resistors in.

    However, I was now faced with replacing D1...

    After my hopelessly feeble (have a stab in the dark), attempt to work out the polarity of D1, I made my wise choice by the schematic.





    So once my D1 was soldered in place, i attached everything back up!

    With safety glasses (ok Target +1.50 reading specs), on and a 1mtr extension lead. With baited breath, I flicked the socket switch to ON....

    Zip. Tote. Nada...

    Oh, well at least there wasn't a bang and on a positive note, no smoke...

    No digital display. 240v though the chassis, so powers going in and not blowing up

    Will do a bit more fiddling over the weekend. So just posting this to let you know that I've replaced what - at least I can do.

    Cheers,
    GT250.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GT250 View Post
    Ok, Reschs,

    Checked the Blue capacitor and it's reading 45.8nF
    A bit of checking, it looks as though it should be 22uF...?

    I have checked the other diodes and they seem to be ok.
    The capacitor appears to be 68nF 305V X2(mains rated)

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  • #12
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    Do you have DC Voltage at the output of the bridge rectifier ?
    Got to start at the basics.

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    Hi Reschs,
    I have found out that the Display has gone.
    I read somewhere that sometimes when the PSU goes it can take a display with it.
    I found a display for sale for $59+$10 p&p, so $69 all up.

    I put the DMM across the ribbon block pins and got 'readings' and one pin started the fan up.

    So with the cost of $69 and with the costs of buying the components, time taken to drive around and postage collections and yet still not sure if the thing will work as it used to. I have decided to not continue with it.
    I honestly don't have the skills to test the components in a reliable way as most of you guys can do. I just don't have it.

    In finishing, I'd like to say thank you very much for all the help I have received in this post.

    Best regards,
    GT250.

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    LSemmens
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    Good try, anyway GT250. Sadly, in this day and age, it is more economical to replace a device completely than it is to repair said devices.
    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

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    gulliver (27-03-23)

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    Don't throw it out yet.
    Another may turn up at work and provide the parts.

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    gulliver (28-03-23)

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