Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Philps Airfryer HD9240 Dead

  1. #1
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    996
    Thanks
    585
    Thanked 283 Times in 167 Posts
    Rep Power
    277
    Reputation
    4160

    Default Philps Airfryer HD9240 Dead

    Hi all,
    Ok. Where do I start.
    Last year my trusty A/F just stopped working after cooking a meal. There was no sound, it turned off as normal.
    Next day, it wouldn't turn on!

    On opening It I found that a 47Ω 2W R1 had literally crumbled to bits. The one in the middle.
    Ah ha, I thought, a blown Fuse. Easy peezy...! Off to JayCar I plodded.

    They only had 2x 23Ω 1W (I think from memory). I then 'made' this R1 47Ω 2W.

    The A/F still had no power. And then a DOH! moment and I tested the other fuse R2 and that had gone, finding hairline cracks in it! Jaycar only had a 47Ω 5W 'block' left.
    Then I noticed that C6 - 10uf 50v had gone. J/C only had a 63v, so that was ok.

    When I had finished, I plugged it in with wide hopeful pride, and BANG! Smoke drifting up from underneath the pcb.
    With a lump in my throat I turned it over to see that D1 had blown itself up!

    I have managed to purchase the Correct Fuses/R's bought 5 of them!
    Thinking that the IC might have gone due to the bang, I got two of those!


    This is the website that I found after I replaced the R's and it still wasn't working.

    As it is, the 'dual' R's are ok. The white block R2 is gone and C6 is gone. Plus that D1





    Top PCB:


    Blown D1:


    5W R:


    New Fuse R's



    New IC's and Fuse R's:







    I'm off to J/C in a bit and will grab a few more C6's.
    Thanks people



Look Here ->
  • #2
    LSemmens
    lsemmens's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rural South OZ
    Posts
    10,230
    Thanks
    11,575
    Thanked 6,825 Times in 3,208 Posts
    Rep Power
    3033
    Reputation
    127760

    Default

    It's just done as intended, fried everything it could! Sorry, best of luck attempting the repair, I've given up on these sorts of things so cannot even offer anything helpful.
    I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message...

  • The Following User Says Thank You to lsemmens For This Useful Post:

    GT250 (13-03-23)

  • #3
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    996
    Thanks
    585
    Thanked 283 Times in 167 Posts
    Rep Power
    277
    Reputation
    4160

    Default

    Lsemmens, yeah it - now - looks worse
    I just don't like throwing away things that can be repaired with a bit of brain storming.

    I've had the fryer for a long time and the new ones are in their hundreds. Just seemed a simple Fuse, but (i know, I know), just seems at his time a bit bigger.
    Just have some time on my hands now, after a horribilis last year.

    Cheers,
    GT250.

  • #4
    Senior Member
    Reschs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Outside a few schooners
    Posts
    2,991
    Thanks
    832
    Thanked 2,017 Times in 1,000 Posts
    Rep Power
    865
    Reputation
    30638

    Default

    The photo of the PCB shows you have fitted two 47 ohm resistors in parallel for R1, ergo 23.5 ohm.
    You have stated that you fitted two 23 ohm in series.

    Please clarify.

    I would also check the 68nf blue cap.
    Last edited by Reschs; 12-03-23 at 07:22 PM.

  • The Following User Says Thank You to Reschs For This Useful Post:

    GT250 (13-03-23)

  • #5
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    996
    Thanks
    585
    Thanked 283 Times in 167 Posts
    Rep Power
    277
    Reputation
    4160

    Default

    Hi Reschs,

    As for the two 47Ω's, yes I realised my mistake when I took them out on Saturday and checked them and that White 5W one. I just sat back and thought what a stupid thing to do!
    At the time I guess, I had that Parallel and Series thing going through my mind and was looking for 23.5Ω + 23.5Ω =47Ω 2W...



    I'll check that Blue Cap when I get back home later Reschs.
    BTW, do you think I caused the D1 to blow due my 23.5Ω mistake?

  • #6
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    996
    Thanks
    585
    Thanked 283 Times in 167 Posts
    Rep Power
    277
    Reputation
    4160

    Default

    Ok, Reschs,

    Checked the Blue capacitor and it's reading 45.8nF
    A bit of checking, it looks as though it should be 22uF...?

    I have checked the other diodes and they seem to be ok.

  • #7
    Premium Member
    wotnot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Scenic Rim, SE Qld
    Posts
    2,799
    Thanks
    1,364
    Thanked 2,590 Times in 1,327 Posts
    Rep Power
    1170
    Reputation
    51810

    Default

    Examine the viper16 datasheet ~ best I can tell from the pictures taken, it's using circuit as per figure 19 ... not hard =)

  • The Following User Says Thank You to wotnot For This Useful Post:

    GT250 (14-03-23)

  • #8
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    996
    Thanks
    585
    Thanked 283 Times in 167 Posts
    Rep Power
    277
    Reputation
    4160

    Default

    Ok WOTNOT, I'll grab it when I get back.

  • #9
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    996
    Thanks
    585
    Thanked 283 Times in 167 Posts
    Rep Power
    277
    Reputation
    4160

    Default

    I'm going to get one of those Blue Caps...
    Slow boat from China. Element 14 postage is $$$

  • Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •