Someone on AliExpress has a 16 way dsq sw but don't like NZ address
Sure you could get dsq 10 sw some time ago but seems to have gone
I stopped making diagrams years ago. When I die it will come with me because to make a diagram of my set up its just impossible. Just imagine 8 X 24 inch monitors in the lounge room, all controlled by HDMI Switchers + HDMI Matrix Switchers one 8k 85 inch tv, at least 10 Sat Boxes, Vu stuff and cheap Chinese boxes, other switch boxes Plenty of HDMI Cable, plenty of cat 5 and 6 cables, 9X Spaun MultiSwitches that have 8 ports on them, one computer, total length from left to right its 7.6M in length and all controlled by 4 X i7 computers in the computer room )5 mtrs away) and 3 of them have 2 X RTX 3080ti and 1X 3090ti working together. Yes I have had some issues with my complicated system most was fixed by me but this one that effects DISCqC Switching that Switch either 1.0 2.0 mode and 1.1 mode 8X DISEqC switch have (3 off them in circuit, impossible to get the 16 porter so 8 will do) is the worst ever. Look at my photo then multiply by 2 cabinets and the 85 inch telle is in the middle, yes this extreme and very complicated.
I have decided to buy another Universal Prime Focus KU LNBF and cut the horn out and use it to my 10700 lnb, I could change all my Ku Dishes to Universal but for the moment I want to stay with 10700 although Horizan 3E at 169 Deg is using Universal freq I will wait until there are some good feeds on it.
I'll get one of this a cut it and fit it to a 10700 lnb
Last edited by Mr 672A; 08-05-24 at 02:16 PM.
Someone on AliExpress has a 16 way dsq sw but don't like NZ address
Sure you could get dsq 10 sw some time ago but seems to have gone
If you have a look at the Photo of the Back of Cabinet 1 yes 1 not 2 as I have two identical cabinets full of wires and other on the back and on cabinet 1 (Photo) you will see the DiSEqC 1.1 on the back but its a 8 porter not 16 porter so what I really need is 9 as I have 9 dishes and 9 Spaun Multi Switches so one of my Dishes misses out but I can live with that but can use it on all of my monitors if needed.
Tomorrow I will buy a cast iron box that repels RFI and EMF and fit it out with rotary switch 12 position and take my time of wiring it up so once in the computer room if I need to get another satellite I will have to go into the Lounge room and turn the knob to the desired Satellite.
But a the same time I will still modify a prime Focus Scalar ring to be used on a 10700 LNB because I dont know if the modded lnbf will work ok to stop the issue that I have.
Hi Mr 672A
Here's my other Two LNB's which i used for Optus C1 Fox/Austar/Aurora/Vast Prior to the Optus10 Upgrade
This was running via a 4 Meter Ku Rated Orbitron Dish.
The MTi AP8 was my early LNB which was Brilliant but only gave me the Single Output - So wasn't really ideal for Watching H/V Simultaneously.
I later upgraded to the Invacom QDF 031 which i received with a Modified Feed which gave me 4 Discrete Outputs...and it worked Bloody Excellent.
You'll note the Scaler Ring Feed diameter isn't that much more than a standard Offset LNB..
Looking back I didn't actually notice any difference between them and my other 10700Mhz Modified Feeds which have the Larger Scaler Ring.
Optus c1 was definitely a good one for Testing on too - As over here in Nz all H Pols were just on Threshold.
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Question!
Was there any reason why you uses 10700 over Universal 9750-10600. Did you have and reason for this. For me I have DiSEqC issues between V and H and selecting the Wrong Satellite, Remember the DiSEqC switch is 6M away + the length of up and down the wall so I say the total run will be 12 Mtrs from the computer room and the Sat TV room. Now 99% of programs we use can only handle 1.0 2.0 DiSEqC that's only 4 Satellites but I have noticed SMART DVB the last one you can get it has UN Committed to 16 Sats but Never used this feature because If I do DVB Dream, EBS Pro, Transedit wont work because the 3 off them can do DiSEqC 1.1.
Whilst waiting for my second Prime Focus KU LNBF to arrive so I can cut off the feed horn to fit in on a 10700 LNBF I have for the first time eliminated one of the two issue I had and it took time to do this and its a rotary switch to select the correct satellite.YEAH!!! I have to get off my butt and walk 6M from the computer room to the Lounge Room to select the satellite I want to scan..... Now I need to find out whats causing H (18V) to control V (13V) and I think its not 22 KHz doing this or is it having 5 X 10700 LNBF and 1 over powered Universal on a 2.4M Dish that causing the Issue. Maybe should have all universal or all 10700 but not mix them like I did. What do you think ( PS Eutelsat 172 Ku is Universal so is Horizons 3E this tending me to change to Universal only but might still have the problem. Yes Waste more $$$$
On Job Fixed, At the moment can select 8 Satellites but If need can do 12 on this cheap JAYCAR Rotary Switch.
Works extremely well.
Last edited by Mr 672A; 13-05-24 at 12:49 PM.
Hi Mr 672A
No there wasn't a preference of running 10700Mhz LNB's. The modifications were done more as an experiment and Curiosity.
I run either or LNB's depending on what Satellite I'm looking at and what Bands are in Operation.
Another thought that comes to Mind. Have you checked your H/V DC Voltages when the Universal LNB is in use.
It's possible Volt drop could be your Problem?. I have come across it on the odd occasion myself. Especially when running H Pol - when the Cable Length Volt drop causes the Voltage to be under 18v and therefore switches the LNB into V Pol..
The Universal may also have a slightly Higher Current drain when compared to the 10700.
Just a Thought....
Yesterday I checked the SKEW on the Universal LNB on the 2.4M dish (took my time to do this) and its ok, another thing that I have tested now, signed off. I will check later the Voltage on Vert and Horz for this 2.4M dish in the patch panel in the dish farm area only 3 mtrs away from the universal lnbf
Remember all of my 8 ports are used to the Spaun Multi Switch behind the cabinet. the bottom of the multiswitch is marked V and H that goes to the LNB on the 2.4M Dish, so out of 8 One of them goes to the Computer room the other 7 goes to sat receivers in the TV room. Another thing to take note is it takes me minutes to reconnect the 1.2M Offset dish and all is OK so the only difference is 1.2M vrs the 2.4M Dish which has extra gain, also 10700 vrs Universal thus can be proven when i get the new universal lnbf and cut the horn out and glue/fix it to the sharp 10700 lnbf.
The Next job is Check the Voltages on V and H at the patch panel where the dishes are. Most of the time its hard to do this as on the Weekend (MOSTLY) when feeds come in and its the best time to do a test (including thus weekend, good feed coming in)... Because of my Stroke ridding Poor Memory I have been writing things down so I can go back and see what I have done and for me its the best thing to do. As it stands the Manual DiSEqC switching has totally fixed the dish I want so now try to find out why one of my receivers or the computer room is wiping V or H on one of the receivers.(as far as I know you can have any amount of receivers on Vert and and any amount of receivers Receivers on Horz on the same multiswitch on the same satellite and all should work)
Dont worry I will get the End of this...... The Next test,,,,,,, Voltage,,,,,, 18V for Horz and 13 V for Vert, Remember once again I have a Spaun Multiswitch in the mix and have a feeling this could be the issue. Yes replaced it with a new one the results were the same.
On this test I used two different receivers where the both had a Sat cable plug in the MultiSwitch. Receive "A" was turned on Vert Channels and Receiver "B" was turned on for "H" Channels. Out in the yard I Checked the two cable that come from the Multiswitch behind the cabinet inside the lounge room to the Panel in the dish farm area (OPEN Circuit test) and I found Horz is 18.20V and the Vert is 11.94 V. Hummm the Vert is low but I have to make another gadget to expose the conductor to measure the voltage on load. The cable run is around 35 Mtrs from the lounge room to the panel where the dishes live, From the Patch panel to any Dish the 9 off them is another 3 to 4 mtrs and on the inside from the lounge room to the computer room could be another 35 to 40 mtrs. You can see I used a lot of RG6, I should have run RG 11 but it was too expensive to buy. 6 months ago I bough a 305 MTR of RG 11 for 100 bucks fro ebay but 10 years ago it was poison to buy
Now if the Universal uses more current compared to the 10700 I say the voltage will be lower but it has to be on load. 18.20 volts as from half way is not bad ,,,but the Vert i think its too low but when I have time and if I make a device to measure the conductor voltage. I will do a test and let you know the test that I want to do from the COMPUTER ROOM to the DISH FARM on load. Know doubt 80 mtrs of RG6 will have some voltage drop + the connecting along the way. If you know what the GAIN loss of 100 MTR of RG 6 with quad shield yes the older RG 6 not the latest that has been around for the last 5 years.
Last edited by Mr 672A; 15-05-24 at 07:42 PM.
Another thing that I like to know about Universal LNBF is when switching from low to high band via a 22kH signal does the signal stay on all the time or just a quick or burst 22kH to switch from low to high band
It will stay switched for as long as the tone is there
in either voltage
Mr 672A (21-05-24)
Gidday Mr 672A.
No the 22Khz Switch Tone is Primarily for switching Bands on the LNB - i.e 9650 over to 10600 on a Universal LNBF.
Not Polarity which is defined via 14/18v Respectively.
Cheers:
Mr 672A (03-06-24)
Yes I know 14V /18v Respectively to switch from Vertical to horizontal but wonder why you need to have a 22 khz switch tone and now I know its used for the switching from low to a higher band but does the tone stays on continually either on the low or high band.
Thanks.
switching will happen whenever the tone is on
Mr 672A (03-06-24)
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