I'm of the opinion that good sound doesn't need to cost the earth...
In fact, it's the older gear that often outperforms this new modern junk. As an example, I have Technics gear from the 80s that will romp all over some of the expensive stuff that's on sale today. It's also built better.
Now, for home theatre, a good AV controller or amp is a must. Dolby digital DTS is a good way to go, and these can be picked up for easy money. 5.1 would be a minimum, but there are amps that support 6.1 and 7.1 as well.
Choice of brand? That's a hard one and often comes down to personal preference. Google any brand or model number and you will come up with a product review for it that will tell you what it's REALLY like.
Your Jamo centre speaker is fine - use it as it is intended.
The two Jamo bookshelf speakers would be ideal as rears.
The X890s, while I am not familiar with them, would be your front left and right. You need to find out what the extra L/R connections are for. They may be linked from the inputs, to drive extra speakers - perhaps even to drive the bookshelf speakers. They may be "bi-amp" speakers - ie designed to be used with an amp that has separate low frequency and high frequency outputs.
The easiest way would be to hook these up to an amp and have a listen. If they sound fine, then you're good to go. If they are missing the bass or tops then they are bi-amp speakers, in which case simply bridge the two + terminals and the two - terminals together. This will give you a full-range speaker.
As for the sub, it depends on how good it is. You say it's old. This may mean that the foam surround on the speaker cone has perished in which case the sub will most likely "fart" when it's operating. If this is the case, it would be worthwhile upgrading unless you can get a new foam surround fitted for cheap. There is however the possibility that the voice coil has been damaged if the speaker has been run like this. Only an inspection will tell.
However, if the sub is in good operational condition, go ahead and use it. Just hook it across the left front output of the amp. Given that it has speaker level inputs, it will have the appropriate crossover/attenuator network built in.
Speaker level inputs are not the most ideal, but if it works, there's no need to go spending money on something else. Sub bass carries relatively little audio information so the reproduction of it is not critical.
Most home theatre amps have at least a sub pre-out to drive a powered sub, some amps have a dedicated sub amplifier stage built in and can drive a standard sub to reasonable levels.
When you want to move up a notch, you buy a separate sub amp - a mono amp capable of providing several hundred watts, and a nice big ported sub to hang off the end of it. Menus and controls on the amp will allow you to customise your sub's response and levels.
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