Bosch Entry Delay

[BassTeQ]

Hi all,
A frind of mine has a Bosch alarm system, solution 880.
He has a delay of 2 mins I think, once the garage has been opened to disarm the alarm. He's an older person and sometimes has trouble getting to the alarm pad in time, so I'd like to increase the delay for him.
BUT looking in the manual, this option can only be set by the installer, does anyone know how I can lengthen the delay for him?
Any help is appreciated.

Thank you

[Chimp]

yep youve got to be able to get into installer mode first and cahnge it from in there. There is no other way.

[ArjanH]

I would seriously consider moving the sensor in that area so it doesn't pick him up till later. An entry delay of such a long time is not a good idea. 2 minutes is an awefully long time for anybody to be messing around in the house before the alarm goes off. I can't remember the exact figure but the average burglar only takes about 3 or 4 minutes to do the entire job. Best to move the sensor and shorten the entry delay to say 30 seconds at most.

[Muviman]

I agree with Arjan. Two minutes is too long a delay, either move the detector or invest in a wireless remote kit and reduce the delay as much as possible. In two minutes an experienced crook could clear out the garage and/or find and disable the alarm.

[BassTeQ]

Thanks all for the replies, so if I just remove the wires for the sensor from inside the panel, that should suffice? Don't have to change any of the settings to disable that zone or anything?

Cheers

[Security-Tech]

It will need to be programmed out (type15) or have the resistor inserted across the input in the panel to seal that zone, or it will just bypass everytime you arm it "::""))

[Muviman]

I actually meant move it so that it doesn't face the door, thereby not needing so much delay, but still doing its job

[BassTeQ]

I should have actually said earlier that I think its a reed switch on the garage door NOT a PIR.
If I go the resistor option, what type should I use?

Thanks

[intelliGEORGE]

I should have actually said earlier that I think its a reed switch on the garage door NOT a PIR.
If I go the resistor option, what type should I use?

Thanks

The one you pull out of the reed switch, provided the installer put it at the "End" of line.

[watchdog]

I can't believe this - EVERYONE being helpful to a DIY

[ArjanH]

I can't believe this - EVERYONE being helpful to a DIY

*sigh* the first unhelpful post in this thread. There always has to be one doesn't there lol.

As mentioned before use the one thats in the reed switch (either a 3.3K or 6.8K) and stick it in the panel between the Common or 12v+ and the input the cable is wired into. The other way and possibly the faster way to do it is to default the panel and reprogram it.

[bss904]

*sigh* the first unhelpful post in this thread. There always has to be one doesn't there lol.

As mentioned before use the one thats in the reed switch (either a 3.3K or 6.8K) and stick it in the panel between the Common or 12v+ and the input the cable is wired into. The other way and possibly the faster way to do it is to default the panel and reprogram it.

Since when is defaulting, reprogramming & testing a panel faster than straping out a sector. Just strap out the sector at reed and put a note in the panel documenting the change. Why play around in the panel if it is not necesary.

[ArjanH]

If its a basic panel with say 4 or 5 zones, 1 or 2 user codes and not much else it only takes 3 minutes to program one of these. Maybe 10 minutes for the entire job. Not much of a biggy. *shrug* If it was my call I'd do it that way. Somebody else might do it differently.

If the reed switch is hidden in the door frame or something, the cable could be hard to get at. This could make strapping the reed kind of hard and would take a lot longer than my option.

[Muviman]

I say leave it in and add remotes... 'course that would require defaulting and re-programming, but it would maintain or improve the original level of security.

[ArjanH]

I say leave it in and add remotes... 'course that would require defaulting and re-programming, but it would maintain or improve the original level of security.

Good point and very worthy of consideration. Bosch recievers and remotes are cheap in comparison to other brands. It would also make the system much easier to use.

[BassTeQ]

Just strap out the sector at reed and put a note in the panel documenting the change. Why play around in the panel if it is not necesary.

When you say strap out a sector, you just mean joining the wires that go into the reed switch? Im pretty certain I can get to the reed switch wires in the garage.

Thanks!

[watchdog]

*sigh* the first unhelpful post in this thread. There always has to be one doesn't there lol.

As mentioned before use the one thats in the reed switch (either a 3.3K or 6.8K) and stick it in the panel between the Common or 12v+ and the input the cable is wired into. The other way and possibly the faster way to do it is to default the panel and reprogram it.

No ArjanH I'm not being unhelpful. What I'm doing is expressing my surprise that that you are all being so helpful. It wasn't that long ago that 90% of replies would have been putting sht on him for trying to do it himself.

[ArjanH]

No ArjanH I'm not being unhelpful. What I'm doing is expressing my surprise that that you are all being so helpful. It wasn't that long ago that 90% of replies would have been putting sht on him for trying to do it himself.

Well thats very sad and completely unnecessary. Sure some people are way in over their heads when making modifications to their own alarms and should be steered towards a qualified tech but in this case I was more than happy to assist.