Jaycar MKII problems
Ok going off my listed problems in the programmer section I thought I would restart here
I just built my JC MKII, plugged it all in and tried a Silver card (old seller's card from 5 years ago for Fox) in LMedit and I get a well documented error "Data interrupted - check card and connections"
I looked it up and there seems to be a problem with silvercards programmed with AUSGOLD not working in the JC MKII, I read some of the fixes but they all require using other software, and when I try other SW I get the same error.
thats number one, number two, I don't have any LED being lit up apart from the switch from PIC to normal mode, could the above problem be related?
thanks
Hillbilly
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i would get a magnifying glass and look at all the solder joints as it sounds like there is either a bad joint or even some small solder run shorting across where it may not belong.
also double check you installed the correct resistors where the belong
When I was having problems with mine I found it was a serial port conflict. IIRC it was an old dial up modem causing the issue, try disabling a few things and see how you go.
Did you try ticking GS/ E/ F???Originally Posted by hillbilly
I would say fandttm is spot on
One of the LEDs should come on with power and the other flashes when talking to the wafer and I remember that there were a few resistors that were 4k7 & 470R & 47R and the difference is the last band colour........
goodluck
f
If im able to read a v5.3 whitey (ie get atr, provider id, hsn etc) but not write to it (ie manual emk update) could this be a fault with my jaycar reader?
reading part is ok but writing to card part is faulty?
doubt it - to read the card certain commands are sent - the card reads the commands and responds with answers....so try writing at 3.57mhz not 6mhz
and........
what program are you trying to write with - that could be the problem?
f
How do you know it's not writing/working?
Leroy
Using Jaycar reader, if you're able to read card details (eg provider id and HSN) then almost certainly there's nothing wrong with your hardware. If there was a fault then it wouldn't get that far.
The fact that the ATR is intelligible tells you that the RxD section is working and there's nothing wrong with your crystal or software baud setting. The fact that additional card details (provider id etc) were received tells you that commands get through to the card ok, ie the TxD section is working.
So if you're reading card details but unable to update keys etc then it's purely a software problem. For example wafers running AusGold can only be reprogrammed using one specific program, intentionally so to combat wafer cloning (back in the days when sellers sold silver wafers for pay tv). It was a bit before my time but that's my understanding of AusGold.
As I remember it, ^lave's LMEdit was an alternative to ggedit. They were designed for Ghost Ghold / Ghost Silver / Ghost Fun / Ghost Emerald. They aren't compatible with AusGold, which besides having scrambled commands used a completely different memory map. When updating wafers you need to start by identifying your code and then using the appropriate updater application. The wrong updater application will never work, no matter what hardware or Windows version you use.
Updaters like FMEdit and LMEdit work by repeatedly calling a 'raw write' command that programs a data string to a specified address in EEPROM (internal or external). The addresses it uses for each piece of data need to be correct otherwise at best your update will be unsuccessful; you could just as easily overwrite some other important data in EEPROM and effectively trash it. If that happens you'll be unable to revive your wafer even if you subsequently used the correct update tool: you'd need to completely reprogram it.
Comments by others about using Win98 instead of XP or Vista are valid too. I've usually been able to get XP working but for device programming it can be handy to keep a Win98 partition around as some programs, especially older ones, really do work better with '98 than anything else.
Also relevant is serial port. If trying to use a USB serial adapter and having problems the first thing to do is get rid of the USB adapter and run straight off the motherboard (or a PCI serial card). USB adapters can be OK in some applications but they're also notoriously problematic. Vista too is notorious for giving problems. If having trouble with device programming on Vista then the first thing to do is to try an XP machine instead.
Anyway it sounds like your hardware is ok. good luck.
i bet he is using an early version of gup and when he attempts to send the new emk it gets EMM=failed
tried at both speeds but still wont work. ive tried with gup v3.5 and fmcard but the only way i can get pics is by updating card in a strong box.
Once updated it works in my strong and dreambox until the next update
im sure im logging, getting the emk line and writing to the card properly but i get no pics after manual update. Also card in not updating in my dreambox thats using only cccam2.0.9 with the same pheonix reader connected to box
i thought its was mostly likey going to be a software or setting problem but i wanted to eliminate the reader as a possible problem and i think i can safely do that now
Thanks for that mate, look like ive got more reading to do
Couple of things to test.
1. As fandtm666 said, double check soldering and resistor values.
2. JP1 and JP2 correctly set.
3. Using a multimeter, measure between pins 7 & 14 on both IC's 2 & 3, there should be 5.0v
4. For this test use a good GND point (crystal casing) now placing the negative lead of your multimeter on the GND place the positive lead on the following.
Pin 2 on IC1 the reading should be 8.7v or more.
Pin 6 on IC1 the reading should be atleast -7.8v
Diode 3 cathode (banded end) the reading should be 15.6v or more.
Zener Diode 1 cathode the Vpp should be 13.0v if the shunt regulator is doing its job.
This should be sufficient testing of the MKII, if it passes then it may be software or a serial hardware issue (faulty Serial converter etc)
I can almost guarantee that it is a conflict problem, I went through the same thing some months ago. Disable everything and then start bringing things back online until you find out what is causing the issue.
Umm. this is gonna seem dumb but I was farting about for days when I realsied that something was not quite right on my reader. The Phoenix mode was actually smartmouse and the smart mouse was actually pheonix. Dunno why - but it was.
AND it showed up (don't know why) on an ATR as ACS V 5.3 but that was it. It fooled me into thinking the reader was correct - but it wasn't.
Push the button in and see if that works.
And... are you using a genuine comm port or is it one of the USB to serial converter cables ?
Probably not the problem, but I did read on some other forums that the relaibility varies depending of what version of the USB>Serial chip you have.
Oh yeah - Running Windows Vista Premium using a USB>Serial and it works fine for me,
Last edited by nickbo; 26-11-08 at 08:03 PM. Reason: Added more
people must read his first initial post and his mention to NO LED lighting up when card inserted .This immediately shows it is a hardware problem straight away as when the card is inserted the led lights up
Fair call - sorry !
I doubt its a conflict problem, I have run a few old shitty things off the serial and never had a problem before, but that was before my PC was flooded with stupid programs, updates, and useless shit!
I think I'll start with the Multi meter test, and if that brings up nothing then it looks like I have to go over the whole thing with a magnifying glass.
also should I be turning the PC off to disconnect from serial port?
and for the record I'm not using a Serial to USB adaptor, its straight off the motherboard.
are you led's around the right way? The long legs are the +ve like capacitors.
Leroy
Last edited by LeroyPatrol; 27-11-08 at 08:48 AM. Reason: If you drink and post....You're a bloody idiot!
good point! they were the first things I put in, and never even thought about + and -, I'll check that to, thanks.
the long legs are the +ve (I edited my post above) so start there first. There is a flat side on the led that indicates negative (cathode) since they are now mounted in the board.
Leroy
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