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Thread: Checking clutch plate

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    Default Checking clutch plate

    This is a replacement engine and box I am soon fitting into my Van.
    Just want to tidy things up now that I have it out of the vehicle.
    The clutch was a little too grabby for me.
    I prefer a little more slip so I pulled it apart hoping to find some signs of oil getting onto the plates or something.
    Inside the bell housing was pretty wet with oil but the clutch and pressure plate are dry.
    Lining seems still good and pressure plate and flywheel don't got no scoring or cracks.

    Could it just be me?
    Could it be my original clutch is too slippy and I have gotten used to it?

    The only thing I did find were missing spring sort of clips that held the release bearing against the release lever inside the bell housing.
    One was missing and the other was broken sitting at the bottom of the bell housing.
    The vehicle is the L300.
    Hoping to get it set up and running on LPG before Xmas.



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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by moeee View Post
    This is a replacement engine and box I am soon fitting into my Van.
    Just want to tidy things up now that I have it out of the vehicle.
    The clutch was a little too grabby for me.
    I prefer a little more slip so I pulled it apart hoping to find some signs of oil getting onto the plates or something.
    Inside the bell housing was pretty wet with oil but the clutch and pressure plate are dry.
    Lining seems still good and pressure plate and flywheel don't got no scoring or cracks.

    Could it just be me?
    Could it be my original clutch is too slippy and I have gotten used to it?

    The only thing I did find were missing spring sort of clips that held the release bearing against the release lever inside the bell housing.
    One was missing and the other was broken sitting at the bottom of the bell housing.
    The vehicle is the L300.
    Hoping to get it set up and running on LPG before Xmas.
    best to check the operation and ease of the cable before blaiming the clutch assy they are known to get a bit tight inside the outer sleeve causing cable slide to be notchy

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    Grip on a clutch is good.

    Slip = heat and wear

    I tend to select the thickest lining clutch plate and the pressure plate with the least blueing (overheating) on the pressure plate face and least scoring marks from the throwout bearing when picking between 2 engines to make one.

    Compare the 2 clutch plates, near the centers are a series of springs or rubber bushes that can compress and be slack and move around which will also make a jerky start. You may notice a rattle comming from one if you shake it or try to move the part that the gearbox input shaft goes into.

    Make sure you put a little high temperature bearing grease on the thowout bearing surface that contacts the pressure plate and also on the gearbox input shaft splines and throwout bearing contact area on the gearbox.

    Make sure you also put a little on the clutch fork, and lube your cable or hydrolic cylinder contact points with the clutch fork.

    Dont forget inside the vehicle under the clutch pedal.

    If 2 parts contact and rub, the point is lube it very lightly, DO NOT get any grease on the fly wheel, clutch plate or pressure plate to clutch plate contact area.

    Infact i wipe these areas down with metho before assembly.

    You can roughen up the flywheel contact surface with some emery paper to remove any glaze off, another good reason for a jerky operational clutch.

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    Unless its in near new condition I would replace the throwout bearing. They are not expensive but are a real pain if it goes bad.

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    I don't understand this glaze thing.
    The metal surfaces are quite good and smooth.
    Surely the clutch lining is going to get glazed and is normal.
    Or should the lining be dull?

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    Moeee, do you remember what a disk brake rotor looks like when its glazed? Its very polished and mirror finish smooth to touch.

    This can occur to flywheels, sometimes a bit of roughening up of the contact surface with emery paper to remove the gloss helps the clutch grip better with a smoother transition.

    Remember a new or remachined flywheel is a machined finish not mirror polished smooth.

    New all clutch contact surfaces are dull including the clutch plate friction material.

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    One last thing.
    The clutch plate has got these 4 short springs.
    1 of them is loose in its little compartment.
    And they are painted different colours.
    One is yellow and one is purple.
    I been looking at them and their role in the scheme of things and I'll be stuffed if I can work out why they are there.

    Godzilla.
    You are very thorough and informative in your tutorials.
    In fact many of your answers are mini tutorials.
    Trouble with me is my attention span is very short.
    That is why I know very little.
    Could you briefly describe the purpose of those springs, and because one is loose, is my clutch plate still good.
    It doesn't seem jerky in operation, just sort of on or off.
    There are no problems once the vehicle is in motion, its just there is not much feel when taking off from standstill.
    Maybe its just me, because when I used to ride a motorcycle, I was very annoyed that I couldn't pop a mono and always stalled when I tried.

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    The springs take up the shock when releasing the clutch between the friction material and the gearbox input shaft.

    4th paragraph, post #3

    (your springs have compressed or softened and give jerky starts)

    Short enough mate? LOL

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