how do I replace a wheel stud

[thing]

I have broken a wheel stud on my 80 series landcruiser and was wondering if there is a simple way of replacing it. I dont know if its threaded in or if I can just bash it out. any ideas?

[Godzilla]

Its bashed out.

Look at your new one, you will see its got straight cut splines on it to grip the hub.

The new one is placed in through the rear (same way as the old one went out) and you can either hammer it in or as in my cases i put some washers where the wheel sits, fit the nut upside down (flat side faceing the hub) and tighten the nut real tight which will pull the stud in. Sometimes a little hammering from the rear helps take the strain off the nut as you dont want to break the new one too.

Bash it in if you can get to it, pull in in with the nut if you cannot.

Did the last person to put the wheel on cross thread it for you ?

You can get new studs at most auto stores, take your broken bits with you and a nut for thread matching.

[thing]

thanks for that. I dont have the new one yet so I wasn't sure of the splines etc.

[osci]

Once you get the new stud......you will be in no doubt as to which way it goes.

a word of warning! just make sure when you ready to press or bash the new stud into the hole that its pressed in straight, you shouldn't have any problems!

I used to make the front disks (rotors) for one of the major car makers and the press we used to press the 5 wheel studs into place, at one stage it only pressing in 4 of the 5 studs straight with the 5th stud damaging the disk as it bottommed out.

although you should be fine when bashing into place.......

[Keith]

The Landcruiser studs are rather soft, hence why it broke. It will bash out easily, and when you go to replace it, use the wheel nut to pull it in so far without using too much tension, then replace the wheel and tighten it up. When you next up take the vehicle for a drive you will need to retighten the nut as the heat from the driving up seat it home properly. I have to replace one on my 80 series when I had it, then 3 on my 100 series because Bob Jane's tyre fitter thought it a good idea to really rev them on with the rattle gun. Also best to buy geniune Toyota as the aftermarkets don't always fit (know this through experience). While your at it get some spares because you will need them. Finally, you do not need to remove the hub to do this.
Cheers

[Godzilla]

A good tip.

When they fit the wheels back on at service centers, tell the lazy buggers to put the wheel nuts on by hand all the way and then use the air wrench. Some just drop the nut into the socket or put them on the stud with just half a turn and then drive it in stripping threads along the way.

Use copper lube on the threads and end of the wheel nuts, it stops seizing and makes taking things off smoother.

It amazes me how many time ive had to replace them on peoples cars after they have been to a service department with monkeys operating air impact wrenches.

[z80]

wait till you see how hard you gotta bash it to get it out...helps to heat it up with a torch..

if it's broken flush you will have a harder job not to damage the assembly with a punch.

be prepared to buy another disc/drum

[Keith]

wait till you see how hard you gotta bash it to get it out...helps to heat it up with a torch..

if it's broken flush you will have a harder job not to damage the assembly with a punch.

be prepared to buy another disc/drum

Talking drivel. If you were the expert, you would know it isn't connected to anything to do with the brakes. Front is on the hub, rear on the axle.
Again, it is easy to do.

[Godzilla]

wait till you see how hard you gotta bash it to get it out...helps to heat it up with a torch..

Do not apply any heat in this area that is higher than normal operational temperatures.

The hub and stud may lose its tempered properties. Hitting a heated hub may also cause it to warp.

To remove a stud broken flush with the hub use a large punch (1 cm diam) and a heavy hammer.

Good solid weight in the blows does the job.

Very, very rarely ive had to remove the hub, place it on a solid block of wood to punch the new one back in because of an excessive tight fit.

99.9% of cases i just pull the new one in with a washer and nut combined with some good solid punches from behind.

[Tecom Master]

A good tip.

When they fit the wheels back on at service centers, tell the lazy buggers to put the wheel nuts on by hand all the way and then use the air wrench. Some just drop the nut into the socket or put them on the stud with just half a turn and then drive it in stripping threads along the way.

Use copper lube on the threads and end of the wheel nuts, it stops seizing and makes taking things off smoother.

It amazes me how many time ive had to replace them on peoples cars after they have been to a service department with monkeys operating air impact wrenches.

I've heard of this hapening a lot in the past few years, but the thing i don't understand is that i was operating a rattle gun when i was 10 and never damaged anyones car. Why is it that people that are supposed to be qualified mechanics or tyre fitters these days seem to have so much trouble?

[Godzilla]

Well while we are talking about replacing them.....

What do you do when they have tightened the nuts so tight that the stud spins on the hub and is seized to the nut?

You rotate the nut but the stud spins with it.

If the rim is an open type of design where you can easily get to the nut, place a solid large rod of steel (like a 1 inch thick X 1 foot long solid rod) against the tip of the nut/stud at right angles to it and give it a solid whack with a small sledge hammer.

Its a 2 man job, make sure the guy holding the rod is wearing gloves or holding it with pliers.

It will snap it off because the studs are brittle.

Alloys and closed rim designs require careful drilling out to remove them.

After its all been pulled apart the replacement stud can be a problem due to the damage cause from the splines of the stud tearing the hole bigger. A new stud would just spin again.

1/ Ream out the hole a little bigger and fit a larger stud.

2/ Take out the hub and use a center punch to punch marks all around the stud hole from both sides of the hub.
This stretches the metal around the hole making it smaller so a new stud will fit back in tightly.

3/ On one really rare car where i couldn't get another hub and all the stud holes were really buggered i had to tack weld them with an arc welder, but as mentioned earlier its not a good idea as you will effect the strength of the steel.

4/ Buy another hub.

Damn air tools in the wrong hands.

Has anyone really looked at their studs and noticed metal shavings from the rim falling on the threads? A simple wipe and some copper lube and your guaranteed to never have a problem using hand tools.

Whats wrong with useing a torque wrench like in the good ol days?

Ahhhh thats right....$$$$$$

[hillbilly]

did I hear someone say Landcruisers have soft wheel studs?

this happened going around a round about, it was the 3rd time to happen to me on a road, it did it to me about 5 times 4wding and I can tell you its not fun watching your wheel roll down a hill and then realising you only have the front wheels to get up that same hill!




sorry to hijack, but it seemed like a good a place as any to tell the story

[Keith]

How did you get it home without the studs?

[Godzilla]

Hey hillybilly (sorry mate im laughing at your name whilst looking at the pic you posted ), did the rim fit tightly on the axle, because thats the main reason studs break.



Studs clamp the wheel to the hub, the shocks and forces are suppose to go through the hub unless your nuts were already loose and the side whack from turning snapped them.

Either way not a nice thing to happen to anyone.

[z80]

Talking drivel. If you were the expert, you would know it isn't connected to anything to do with the brakes. Front is on the hub, rear on the axle.
Again, it is easy to do.

So all cars never have them on the disc eh?


The thread topic is "how do I replace a wheel stud."

The point i was making was that if its cut off flush it will be hard to remove, and you may stuff it and be prepared to get a replacement from the wreckers if you stuff it.

That is meant as a general statement about studs not specific to a landcruiser.

Though I couldn't give a shit what you think.

[Godzilla]

There are two types, fitted directly to the disk or fitted directly to the hub.

You can have disks front or back either way depending on the engineering.

Generaly its studs on the hubs but not on the disks for the driven wheels and studs on the disks for the non driven wheels....but not always.

Studs on the hubs for drum brakes.

GTR is all on hubs. (4wd)


Ford front on disks, rears on axle shafts. (RWD)
Camry all on hubs (FWD)

[z80]

You should see what we have on our VW transporter Godzilla...

[Godzilla]

Im scared to ask, but cannot bear it.

Let me guess studs on drums? LOL

I honestly try not to pick them before ive got the wheel off.

I just pray their studs on hubs if i need to machine the disks, so the disk just comes out if i take the caliper off.

If i need to change the stud, i prefer it on the disk, one bearing and you can bash the bugger out on a work bench.

[z80]

Im scared to ask, but cannot bear it.

Let me guess studs on drums? LOL

The studs screw in from the front, they hold the wheel and disk in one hit.

So...the studs have threads and are almost 4 inches long.

Almost the reverse of the conventional way of doing it...

They are an absolute cow to remove when either cross threaded or seized....or both.


I think some Audis have the same arrangement?


If you snap them you have to remove a threaded portion...can't just be wacked out....

[Godzilla]

Am i surprised? LOL

Read the last bit of post 17 here.

"The German car builders say "what is the best engineered and most unique way of building a advanced and reliable safe car."

Nothing strange mate.