Speedrite Electric Fence Energiser

[Hakko]

Hello,

I have an issue with a Speedrite Electric Fence Energiser SM9800. Manufactured in 1993.

The smallest daughter board (RFT1) developed a hot connection on the pc board and burnt the copper away. Are there any service techs here that deal with this old model?

I'm basically after a new pcb either by itself or as a complete unit. I would prefer to have this replaced rather than purchase a new unit.

Either that or send it to be copied & re-etched.

This unit has enough energy for 95 Klm fencing and according to Dad, Feels like being hit very hard with a sledge hammer!

On the off chance does anyone have access to a service manual?

I'm not after a gimmee as I am happy to pay...Anything to keep the possums out of the 'ol man's garden

Tia

[Moof]

Depending on how much damage there is to the board you can repair the tracks by soldering wire at each end of the track to re connect it.

But there could be faulty components that caused that.

Can you post a pic of the faulty board (both sides) so we may have more of an idea what is going on.

[rickove]

Hakko,where are you located?
Speedrite dont seem to have a website anymore,although still sell product.address is
4 Stafford St.Midland.WA. 6056 pno 08-92745122.
the manuals for speedrite dont have the schematic internal diagrams,only the general setup an details for fencing! got one for older models but would be of little use to do a circuit repair to the main energiser module/box.
People like Acetronics here in Oz.,do pcb design an board manufacture for multitude or one offs for hobbiests etc. if they got something to copy,clear pcb track photos or such?
Know a tech here local who has good success with pcb repair an rebuild,but would be a $$$ expensive exercise.
As Moof has suggested you will need to track down the faulty components that have destroyed the board in the first place before undergo a track repair.
good luck if you got the experience to do this?

[Hakko]

Hello and thanks for the replies.

It is a single sided pcb. The heat stress issue to me seems to have come from a pop rivet securing one of the spade connections. It has heated so much that even the top side of the board (assuming fibreglass) is stuffed.





I've had a bit of experience at making pcb's, electronics and an A grade sparky, but would prefer someone else to copy the board. There is only a coil & two caps attached, but considering the amount of Joules this baby gives it's no wonder something failed.

Phil

This is my first go at uploading pics....

[rickove]

Yeh! I see a catostrophic failing of a ceramic disc capacitor,value an voltage rating partly unknown??and some vapourised circuit track.You should be able to repair this to a degree by removing all components ,scrubbing the board clean off all flash burn etc.and resolder partly and point to point wiring with a new large voltage rated ceramic disk cap.should get you going.But still the sudden destruction of the cap and flash burn is atribute to something,your rivet an lug appear OK? good luck!

[best4less]

Take it to any TV repairer or some one handy with a soldering iron
It is a easy fix

[Hakko]

Yeh! I see a catostrophic failing of a ceramic disc capacitor,value an voltage rating partly unknown??!
But still the sudden destruction of the cap and flash burn is atribute to something,your rivet an lug appear OK? good luck

Do you think that one of these is the culprit, or maybe something else on one of the other boards?
Black cap is 250V 6.0µF
Blue Cap is 250V 330 4 MKT-P
The coil looks ok apart from some minor heat damage. I'll repalce both caps, but go fo a higher voltage rating?

and some vapourised circuit track.You should be able to repair this to a degree by removing all components ,scrubbing the board clean off all flash burn etc.and resolder partly and point to point wiring with a new large voltage rated ceramic disk cap.should get you going.

I'll have to replace the board as about 2 cm is weakened to the point of having a hairline fracture. I dont mind making the pcb myself, do me good to get back into it

Hakko,where are you located?

Sorry Rickove, I'm in Hobart.

Take it to any TV repairer or some one handy with a soldering iron
It is a easy fix

I'm happy to have a go myself, done a few courses at TAFE many moons ago with soldering techniques & got part 1.3 way through diploma of elec eng.

Thanks for the replies everyone, but still feel free to offer any more advice...good or bad

[iwacelect]

hi mate,

hakko, naming your self after a soldering iron will help get our attention

best4less is dead right

but, if you are as capable as you say then the better thing to do is do a schematic of whats there now and lets see what can be beefed and then we'll see if it'll run... or can be "TWEEQUED" further!

mate eleco' fences are (or can be) "nasty"

what is the mass of beasty being kept? or kept out?

[Hakko]

hi mate,

hakko, naming your self after a soldering iron will help get our attention

best4less is dead right

but, if you are as capable as you say then the better thing to do is do a schematic of whats there now and lets see what can be beefed and then we'll see if it'll run... or can be "TWEEQUED" further!

mate eleco' fences are (or can be) "nasty"

what is the mass of beasty being kept? or kept out?

Hello iwacelect,

I was stuck for a name at the time and used the trusty old soldering station sitting beside me...Very impressive pick up though

The unit is good for up to 95 Klm Fencing, has a Max output energy of 9.4 Joules and Max stored energy of 14 J...good for 170 Acres. Pulse Tim of .02S with an interval of 1.22S. Output is 6.0kV. But I guess the suprising thing is it's just being used for a vegie garden the size of a small house block.....and only to keep out possums He wants to make sure that the possums remember not to stuff around with breaking and entering!

This board sits between the Main timing PCB, TWO Plessy caps connected in parallel (32.5 µF 900 VDC Pulse grade Type P194 -40 + 85ºC) and an epoxy filled transformer, then finally onto the output PCB.

Actually from the questions raised, I'm wondering if the Main output transformer is the problem as there are a few cracks in the casing.

I'm open to any suggestions anyone may have



Thanks again

[iwacelect]

Hello iwacelect,

I was stuck for a name at the time and used the trusty old soldering station sitting beside me...Very impressive pick up though

EASY some other suggestions, weller, scope, ersa (very good, very expensive)

.....and only to keep out possums He wants to make sure that the possums remember not to stuff around with breaking and entering!

LOL, i can see where he's going, in these sketchy economic times everywhere you can save a penny is a good thing, this way he keeps his vegie patch clear, catches and cooks the evening meal, multitasking, BRILLIANT.

Actually from the questions raised, I'm wondering if the Main output transformer is the problem as there are a few cracks in the casing.

thanks again

that transformer will be be a step-up transformer, replace whats blown, then to test the transformer,easy, the circuit will run without it, disconnect it and see what drive it's getting

[Hakko]

that transformer will be be a step-up transformer, replace whats blown, then to test the transformer,easy, the circuit will run without it, disconnect it and see what drive it's getting

Thanks iwacelect, I have taken the advice on board (pun intended).

First step, desolder components & order new ones. Clean pcb and make 2 clones...always handy for a spare!

Will Kinsten Glass epoxy 1.6mm pcb 1 oz cu be ok, or should I have gone for the 2 oz cu?

I'll also test the Transformer.

thanks again, will post an update when I finish my shift roster.

Phil