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Thread: msay MKII interface project (gw1 hacks)

  1. #101
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    Oh, about the MAX4053 I think i will left this option open to any one that want to use it, I know that other interfaces like "unloopers" recommends its use, for me is a problem, here it cost about $10,00 bucks a piece (SMD only) and the standard one I get for about $0,80 a piece.



  • #102
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    OK, Rev.06 is up, I'm very busy so i couldn't make it earlier:


    All the last fix applied.

    • - Removed COMMA jumper.
    • - R8 = 10K
    • - Removed T3, R10.
    • - Fix the track at IC4 pin 12.
    • - R21 = 4.7k.
    • - R22 = 1k.
    • - R11 = 1k.
    • - IC3 (7805) is placed horizontally.
    • - IC2D is used by DATA LED.
    • - IC5 pins 1, 2, 15 is now left floating for better compatibility/operation.
    • - All the above solve problems with invalid ATR at some cards, 7805 getting to hot if Philips HEF4053BP are not used (oscillation) and JDM/PH led issues.


    Many thanks to gw1 for the help and bobzombie for testing it out and reporting the problems, thanks bobzombie !

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    Some people are asking if it's possible (or an easy way) to add support to 3.3V cards on the interface, short answer is read the next post.
    Last edited by msay; 09-04-09 at 12:20 AM.

  • #104
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    As I've tried to explain previously, on this project and on others, it's not as simple as changing the VCC pin. If that's the only change you make you risk destroying your card. For that reason I cannot endorse [modifications that just switch 5V or 3V to card Vcc, or reduce card Vcc using a resistor and/or zener diode.]

    Digital devices do not like voltages on their inputs which exceed their Vcc/Vdd. They typically have protection diodes to provide slight protection for occasional low current transients such as ringing, but the amount of current tolerated in this way is very low. If you put 3V on a card Vcc but allow 5V on its /RESET, CLK or DATA you run great risk of destroying your card. Lots of people have experienced this.

    The first thing people do to try and deal with this is zener diodes. Then they realise they need current limiting resistors too. Then they realise they have problems with the I/O line not driving high enough for the input threshold of the host, or that they're causing the host to overheat because you're giving its 5V CMOS input a 3V level. Then they think about schmitt trigger inputs, or pullup resistors, or buffer transistors, or ...

    And then they realise their modifications for 3V mean it won't work in 5V configuration. And they've broken its JDM support.

    3V modification of this particular interface is not practical in my opinion. The mod might work successfully depending on what card you're using, because the current limiting resistors in the msay V5/V6 design may be sufficient for some cards. But it's a dangerous arrangement and I don't recommend it, certainly not for valuable cards.

    Those who want 3V support usually require only Phoenix mode. Single-voltage Phoenix-only interfaces are simple. It is far, far better to simply build a 3V Phoenix from scratch using MAX3232 and a linear 3V regulator (such regulators exist, you don't need to use LM317; they may need to be ordered but they're not expensive).

    To do it properly a multivoltage interface need to use level shifters. Set top boxes that have multivoltage support do it using specialised card interface ICs that contain level shifters and programmable charge pumps. Those ICs are cheap but aren't suitable for simple Phoenix interface as their configuration really requires a microcontroller. That's not particularly hard to do but beyond the scope of a simple homebrew interface.
    Last edited by gw1; 09-04-09 at 09:27 AM.

  • #105
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    Thanks for the info gw1, since this will do more harm and not help at all I removed the previous post and files.

    Now we have an official position.

    Thanks gw1!

  • #106
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    Default Eagle Project

    Please if someone have the project made in Eagle for REV 6, please send-it with me here or PM. My ISO slot pin-out is not like the one in this project so i want to modify the PCB to match with my pin-out slot. Thank You!

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    The slot I use was FCI model 7431E0225S01LF, Farnel code 1098027. You can build another board for the one you already have and placing over the conector slot.

    I've shared the library of this slot so you can easily adapt your own.

  • #108
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    Yes, but i want to modify the PCB not to make another one that fit over that one. Please... it is not for commercial use, i want to make-it for myself. Please send-it on PM if you like.

    Best Regards!
    Last edited by dorcky; 03-02-10 at 05:57 PM.

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    Sorry dorcky, can't do.

  • #110
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    OK then, if you not want to share-it fine... i will have modification in PAINT for that socket Thank you anyway for your work !!!

    Best Regards!

  • #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by msay View Post
    The project is moved over here so we avoid hijacking the other thread .

    A brief resume, i wanted to build the Jaycar Phoenix Mk II but there was also little hacks/changes on the original design, what i did was redesign the original schematic and add my own changes, plus all gw1 hacks in one ready to be build board. As soon the project get tested and ready, schematic and board design will be released in PDF format so anyone can build your own 'msay MKII' for free.

    So far the features are:
    - GAMMA & DELTA modifications.
    - One Tactile Switch to change PH/JDM function.
    - Individual led's to indicate PH or JDM mode.
    - Inverter mod that can be activated by jumper.
    - D-SUB9 pins 6, 9 and 5 connected to ground.
    - Added suggested capacitors to Smart Card VCC.
    - Added shottky mod with 1N5819.
    - Every IC has now a 100nF bypass/decoupling capacitor for better stability.

    For now this is the schematic that we are using:


    And this is the board:



    Now i will resume the conversation of this project on this thread.

    The first board is ready:



    I left the board on for about 2 Hrs, no smoke, fire or explosion, all components run cold, this is good. There is one more bug to fix, the transistor at the output of pin 3 (555) set the interface to JDM when you first turn it on, it was design to start at PH mode.

    We can remove T2 and R13, both 4053 works fine without it, connecting R21 direct to SWCLK. Other important thing is that there are different types of 4053 that can handle 3.3V/5V/15V according to Philips

    The 4053 that i use was 4053B.

    The suggested 74HCU04 is hard to get in my country, Farnell has it under farnel code 1287555 but i have to wait about 3 weeks to get it, for now i will stick with 74HC04 until Farnell deliver my 74HCU04.

    All switches/modes and visual controls are working fine, i've put my STB satellite card in and the data led flashes for about a second than stop, looks like it want to talk.

    I did not test the interface yet, i could not find a serial cable, i have one serial cable that has a male <> male DB9 end, and i need a female<>male one. I was searching the internet but all i find is people selling the cable that i need instead of the correct way to build one, the close info that i could get was and

    Does any one know the pinout of this cable??

    After the tests i will update the schematic with all the changes suggested by gw1 and my own.

    Thanks.
    The 4shared link to project is broken, can you post another link please? Thx

  • #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by kuroki View Post
    The 4shared link to project is broken, can you post another link please? Thx
    Hello!

    It was so long time ago, sorry to up this thread.
    I'm doing this to post the backup of my last revision, sorry I do not have the original files or projects anymore because of an HDD crash.

    This is the last schematic:


    Thank you.
    Bye

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