As above, anyone here repair them ???
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Yes mate, i know EXACTLY what you are talking about!!!
They are not cheap to replace and can be repaired and sold for good $$$ second hand too. As that is what this prick did to mine.
One Short Storey.
I had a F&P with a blown main modual board.
Got a replacement for trade price (still $$$)
Installed it, programmed it (size of machine etc)
Still came back with a fault after going for only 3 min into a cycle.
Checked all the likely suspects (Soleniod resistance, Pump Motor Resistance, Rotor Postistion Sensor, Motor Winding Resistance, etc etc) Still no good.......
Wasted heaps of time......
Then a Repair business that is a F&P service Agent said they'd look at it free of charge for me.
Take it in.... they can't find fault either.....
We all come to the conclusion the replacement main modual is rooted and i take it back to where i got it from.
Part Supplier says he will not take part back as work had to be done by F&P Service agent and the fault logged with F&P themselves, so he as a parts reseller could get a refund.
I tell him, well i haven't paid you for it anyway, so here, stick ya faulty board up your ass, and walked out.
Went to Retravision and bought a new F&P with a warranty!
Problem Solved!
Note: There are a lot of fault codes that your machine will display via flashing LEDS, you need to know these.
There is also certain buttons held down to enter programming mode.
Those main boards are very sensitive and that is the reason they ONLY let F&P Service Agents report faults with them.
They come sealed, and have had plenty of known problems in the past.
And it is also quite likely that another failed part took your board out, thus why they don't like just anyone putting a new $300 board back in, only for it to blow straight away.
My failed board showed No Visable signs of failure, and i was exactly where you are now. It took over a month to complete the above list of events, thus is why i just bought another one. Old one had been fine for 10 years +
But i do wish i had found the fault, as i have a perfectly good, perfectly clean and new looking F&P washing machine in my workshop minus a main control board now.
Lesson: Lucky this was my own machine. If i had done this for a customer, i would of been very much out of pocket.
Last edited by ol' boy; 04-03-09 at 10:43 AM.
weirdo (01-06-10)
Yep, easy. Harry5 asked if anyone here can repair a motor control board for a Fisher and Paykel.
I asked "for what exactly?"
ie a motor control board for what appliance? F&P make a variety of appliances with motors in, most of which have control boards.
Dryers, dishwashers, washing machines, fridges and others.
It would just help if I knew what sort of control board he wanted repaired.
sorry mate... i was obviously having a blonde moment
Mine was a washing machine, this one:
Thus this might be of help.
Yeah sorry guys, my mistake. Its for a F&P 5.5 Smartdrive Washing machine.
Replaced board with a reconditioned board thru ebay, but wanted blown board repaired as a back up.
Thanks oceanboy have a copy of the fault codes found on the net, which came in handy as after replacing faulty board had to adjust load size a bit more stuffing around and she's a goer.
So basically wanted blown board as a back up rather than paying $220 for a replacement.
cheers H5
Ok no worries - I do have a contact here who repairs those modules.
If you can't find someone locally, let me know and I'll give you his details.
Thanks for your time Studio1, PM sent.
cheers H5
I have a 13 or more year old 7.5 kg F & P Washing machine that spat the dummy recently.
I rang the only known and reputable repairer and by the fault sequence, he picked a faulty module and something else, I cant remember if it was the cold water solenoid.
Because this machine has worked damned hard doing for equal I reckon to 5 families I went new rather than repair.
$300 odd for repairs so I bought the same current model and I was going to take the old machine to a friend who has similar model but with a different fault.
His control panel is almost impossible to read to see as all the pads have worn nearly thru.
The only other repair as I remember in all those years is a pump.
Last edited by gordon_s1942; 01-06-10 at 07:16 PM.
I stand unequivicably behind everything I say , I just dont ever remember saying it !!
I know its the pressure sensor. I'm an electronics person . Sensor decreases pulse train frequency going to microcontroller ( I have captured this on a CRO) as water bowl fills with water. When pump empties water from bowl, pressure sensor does not change RC oscillator circuit resulting in an error code saying pressure sensor has not changed for more than 3 minutes. I also made a circuit modification so the default frequency is the same as my mates board and I do see a change when I blow in the sensor but something is still faulty with it. I don't want to open the sensor as I will more than likely make it worse. I just need a replacement sensor but I dont want to pay 200 + dollars for a board. Everything else seems to work on the bench in terms of display / boot sequence and binary error LEDS.
Cheers
I am not certain what to make of that. So you get an error only when pumping down? Does it fill to the correct levels?
The only fault I have seen is sticking diaphragm which causes the frequency to not drop while filling and sometimes a faulty capacitor which is soldered directly to the sensor under some black sealant.
What is the colour of the motor controller's housing?
Last edited by rievax; 02-06-10 at 12:50 AM.
Yes, it seems to fill at the correct level. Housing is charcoal colour... black, Model GW709AU
Here is the full history rievax , sounds like you're also an electronics person :
original error was that the machine detected a negative pressure in the pressure transducer line, the service manual says blow out any water out of line etc. I tried everything the Manual said but machine kept coming up with same error.
Machine unable to finish wash cycle. Upon trying to start wash cycle, inlet valves would pulse water in for say a sec or two then stop then try again, I figured this was a sort of failsafe routine in the firmware to see if there was a change in freq o/p before adding more water. After this ...the machine would try a few times then go into error again.
I then replaced the 74HC04 on the motor control board which forms part of the oscillator section, Now the machine was indicating an out of range error which was a little better, I then compared freq out with a friend's working unit and saw that my sensor was out by 1 Khz or so , I then played with a feedback resistor vaule in the osc circuit so as to bring my freq down a little to the same as my friends. The machine now started normally and fills the bowl but when emptying bowl another error comes up saying that the pressure sensor did not change for more than 3 minutes hence where I am at now. I think something may be sticky in the sensor, Can these be repaired, there are lips to take the top off the sensore but I don't want to mess with it.
Thanks
MrFix - keep looking... Our 709 did exactly the same F&P came out and replaced the control board, I grabbed the old one (being the electronics junkie I am!). Lo and behold the second board failed with the same issue a year later! I thought it had to be a design fault. The oscillator circuit was working fine, traced the circuit a bit more and found what looked like a link/resistor in the path of the frequency line from the fill oscillator to the CPU. It was open circuit (how or why I'll never know, it is only a signal path so not a fuse or anything!!) So I tried a few different resistors until I settled for a wire link. This fixed both boards, and the original board is in the machine and has been going strong for two years.
Disclaimer: this is all from memory and I didn't document it, so as I said at the start - keep looking, it may be the same as my problem.
The sensor is an LC tuned circuit. As applied pressure increases, the diaphram pushes a ferrite slug into the coil decreasing the resonant frequency. The idle frequency is usually about 79.5Khz. Was yours higher or lower? If the capacitor is faulty, sometimes its possible to see a frequency jump when the sensor is flexed.
That frequency I think is for later models. I just measured a phase 5 motor controller(grey) and got 78.4Khz. I applied 15v to its 15v rail to bench test.
I just noticed something you said that indicates your frequency is too high. This will give the negative pressure error.
Fitting the pressure tube to the sensor while there is water in the tub will also cause a negative pressure error during pump down.
But it really seems like your sensor's capacitor is faulty. It has to be a very precise value of 10nf.
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