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Thread: 3 piece racing wheels

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    Senior Member global88's Avatar
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    Default 3 piece racing wheels

    I have some 3 piece wheels that id like to disassemble.
    Does anyone know what sealant is used between the inner and outer wheel?
    What about the torque settings of all the nuts and bolts? I could try to work that one out while undoing them with a torque wrench but dont think it would be a accurate method.
    When reassembling is there a chance that i may not line them up 100% and end up with a mess on my hands?
    They dont seem to have a machined groove to accurately line them up so im not too sure.
    When tightening the bolts, do they torque in a cross pattern, or/and in stages?

    They are 3 piece, OZ Racing wheels, made in Italy.



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    Junior Member dddp's Avatar
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    to get an accurate measurement as close as possible to the torque the nuts are done up to dram a line accross the nuts' centre and extend it to either side of the surface the nut is done up on - then undo the nut and redo it up measuring the torque with a torque wrench until the lines you marked previously line up again then read the torque setting and you should be pretty close to what it was before it was undone

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    Senior Member global88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dddp View Post
    to get an accurate measurement as close as possible to the torque the nuts are done up to dram a line accross the nuts' centre and extend it to either side of the surface the nut is done up on - then undo the nut and redo it up measuring the torque with a torque wrench until the lines you marked previously line up again then read the torque setting and you should be pretty close to what it was before it was undone
    Hmmmm, thats a good suggestion.
    I wonder how much bolt strech and surface contact wear, would throw out your method.

    Still a good idea to try.

    Might compare it to the settings when undoing with a torque wrench.
    The problem with checking while undoing, is the nuts may be locked, giving a higher than normal reading.

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    Quote Originally Posted by global88 View Post
    Might compare it to the settings when undoing with a torque wrench. The problem with checking while undoing, is the nuts may be locked, giving a higher than normal reading.
    Exactly why it is better to mark them first and tighten them once loosened, the initial force it will take to undo the nuts will throw your measurements off.

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    Junior Member dddp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by global88 View Post
    Hmmmm, thats a good suggestion.
    I wonder how much bolt strech and surface contact wear, would throw out your method.

    Still a good idea to try.

    Might compare it to the settings when undoing with a torque wrench.
    The problem with checking while undoing, is the nuts may be locked, giving a higher than normal reading.
    i really doubt bolt stretch is an issue on wheel nuts, torque for these would be way less than would induce bolts stretch - why would you stress wheel nuts like that unnecessarily?

    problem with trying to measure to torque when undoing, apart from the torque wench needs tobe able to read backards, is frozen threads, binding heads - this is likely to throw out accuracy, as george says. And yes, do them up in a criss cross pattern. Also, before dismanling, mark surfaces so that you reassemble them to the same surfaces as before they were disassembled.

    by all means compare eadings you get both ways, but the way i suggested is the most accurate way - this is how the RAC and I verified that a tyre shop had more than doubled the torque on my wheel nuts (way back when) i owned a telstar ghia - they'd done the nuts up to over 160nM when recommended torque was 88-08nM (result of over tightened nuts was sheared studs when trying to undo wheel nuts)

    i have a bit of experience with torquing bolts etc, i'm a mechanical fitter/1st class machinist by trade

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    Senior Member global88's Avatar
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    Just got all my answers, from a 70 year old lotus club racer who owns a tyre and wheel shop.

    Disassembly;
    Cut sealer with a stanley knife, between the inner and outer rims.
    Undo all titanium bolts and nuts, in a criss /cross fashion.
    Heat the sealer with a heat gun to soften it.
    Tap the rims apart with a rubber mallet, gently while applying heat.
    Remove all sealer with a wire wheel on a drill, finish with a scotchbrite pad.
    Clean with thinners.

    Assembly;
    Apply bead of silaflex to outer rim and join with inner wheel.
    Apply bead of silafex to inner rim and join with outer rim/inner wheel assembly.
    Put thread lock on all titanium bolts.
    Tighten hand tight in a 12 oclock, 6, 3, 9 ect fashion.
    Torque to 22 to 24 ft/lbs in the same 12, 6, 3, 9 criss cross method.
    Apply small bead of silaflex to the outer and inner rim joint, smooth with finger.
    Repeat a second bead 24 hours later.

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    global88 you should take a couple of photo's
    When you do things right, people won't be sure that you have done anything at all

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    Senior Member global88's Avatar
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    Oh and thanks to dddp for his suggestions.
    Certainly would have come in handy.
    Thanks

    Ill be waiting to repair a mark on the rear quater, then ill pull the rims apart to spray the inners.
    Ill post pics at that time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by global88 View Post
    Just got all my answers, from a 70 year old lotus club racer who owns a tyre and wheel shop.

    Disassembly;
    Cut sealer with a stanley knife, between the inner and outer rims.
    Undo all titanium bolts and nuts, in a criss /cross fashion.
    Heat the sealer with a heat gun to soften it.
    Tap the rims apart with a rubber mallet, gently while applying heat.
    Remove all sealer with a wire wheel on a drill, finish with a scotchbrite pad.
    Clean with thinners.

    Assembly;
    Apply bead of silaflex to outer rim and join with inner wheel.
    Apply bead of silafex to inner rim and join with outer rim/inner wheel assembly.
    Put thread lock on all titanium bolts.
    Tighten hand tight in a 12 oclock, 6, 3, 9 ect fashion.
    Torque to 22 to 24 ft/lbs in the same 12, 6, 3, 9 criss cross method.
    Apply small bead of silaflex to the outer and inner rim joint, smooth with finger.
    Repeat a second bead 24 hours later.



    Hey man Is this specs for your OZ Racing wheels only? can the torque figures be used for other brands of wheels as well?? I have 2 piece wheels that I need to take apart, any help would be great. cheers.

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    Senior Member tagg's Avatar
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    Hmmm very handy info indeed, have been watching this thread as i was planing on pulling my 3 piece simmonds apart to paint.

    Tagg

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    Senior Member global88's Avatar
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    Im pretty sure the info would work on all wheels.
    The only thing that could be a little off is if my bolts are are diffrent thread pitch to others.
    This may throw off the torque wrench settings.
    Id be pretty confident the torque settings would be ok.
    All the rest should be the same.

    Oh Tagg are your simmons b45?
    I know a freind who followed the same instructions on b45's and all went OK.
    He told me he went 18 ft/lb because he didnt think he had titanium bolts.
    He did a track day recently (over 260 km/h) and is still alive......

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    Had to post this, incase u guys havnt seen it already, poor guy, someone aparently sold him the wrong wheel nuts.. kinda cool tho.. feel sorry for his ride but.

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    Senior Member global88's Avatar
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    Try this

    All discussed there.

    Some people need to know a little about wheels before doing track days.....

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