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Thread: Help required for Maxking SLA-XL Copier & Programmer

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    Default Help required for Maxking SLA-XL Copier & Programmer

    Can any one please advise me on how to use a Maxking SLA-XL Copier & Programmer - Have searched the web but have been unable to find operating instructions



Look Here ->
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    Junior Member grind3374's Avatar
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    Description:

    MODE FEATURES

    0 ISO programmer, 6.00 MHz mode (SmartMouse)
    1 ISO programmer, 3.57 MHz mode (Phoenix)
    2 PICPROG (JDM) Modality.
    3 I2C Modality: Special modality for I2C devices, as EEPROM.
    4 Atmel Prog: SPI-AVR modality.
    5 Link PC: MP2000 German programmer emulation.
    6 PC-SC reader.

    Embedded Copier for PIC and AVR based smartcards.
    Copies & Saves Gold and Silver cards with the option to protect them.
    NO PC CONNECTION needed for copier.

    DESCRIPTION

    0 - ISO programmer, 6.00 MHz mode (SmartMouse). This modality allows you to interface the programmer to smartcard in 6.00 MHz terminal mode, most of smartcards can work in this frequency, including AVR-based, customized cards. To be connected in this modality, smartcard may contain an executing SW. There are a lot of programs compatible with Dumbmouse / Smartmouse interfaces. So all 6.00 MHz compatible software programs may be utilized with this modality.

    1 - ISO programmer, 3.57 MHz mode (Phoenix). In this modality, the emulation interface is simple. The only difference is the operating frequency that will be utilized to clock smartcards. The operating frequency is 3.57 MHz. The RS232 interfaces with a 3.57 MHz quartz are called PHOENIX interfaces. All compatible software programs that require PHOENIX interfaces can be executed in Modality 1.

    2 - PICPROG (JDM) Modality. Allows to program most of commons PIC types. This is the famous JDM/Ludipipo interface. It’s the most popular in the Internet community, especially for all the smart cards that are PIC16F84A / PIC16F876 based. All JDM/Ludipipo compatible software programs ( such as ICPROG and PONYPROG) will work without problems with SLA-XL , modality 2.

    3 - I2C modality: Special modality for I2C devices, as EEPROM. The I2C modality allows you to read/write 24Cxx and 24LCxx devices, also if the device is mounted on smartcards.

    4 - Atmel Prog: SPI-AVR modality. This modality allows you to program ATMEL AVR microcontrollers. The SLA-XL emulates a popular interface supported by ICPROG, PONYPROG and most compatible software programs for AVR smartcards programming through RS232. The programming mode is SPI, emulating STK200 ATMEL interface.

    5 - Link PC: MP2000 German programmer emulation This modality is compatible with TWOPROG 2.41 and previous versions, which are freeware programs that you can easily find and download on the Internet. SLA-XL is compatible with this protocol in modality 5. MP2000 programmers are the best ever invented in the market dedicated at PIC and AVR smartcards. All compatible freeware programs that you could find on Internet for PIC and AVR “Active” and “Controlled” programmation use MP2000 protocol.

    6 - PC-SC Reader Normally, when you buy a smartcard reader, it contains PC/SC drivers. SLA-XL contains these drivers, essential for the support and the management of PC/SC smartcards. Many ISO7816 readers use this standard for smartcards interface.





    if this is the 1 you r refering to

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    Default Maxking SLA-XL programmer

    Thank you for your response
    This is the only info I have on the copier
    What I need is a set of instructions on how to use it
    I had a card for receiving free to air tv via a satellite dish but the card is not working any more
    I bought this copier hoping I could make a new card
    Any help would be greatly appreciated


    The Maxking SLA-XL programmer: (Category Universal Programmers)

    This is the Maxking SLA-XL programmer, also known as a StarLight Advanced programmer. It is well built and very compact and it comes with a simple, yet good bottom side protection. The protection does not consist of a few tiny rubber feet. No, this protection covers the complete bottom side of the programmer, which is a good thing.

    Still, the regular visitors of this website know by now that I am a fan of fully encased programmers. And this is no exception. On the other hand, an enclosure for this programmer would be very hard to make, since the design of the unit was never intended to be in an enclosure in the first place. The positioning of the operating switches and the mode indicator LED, do show that clearly.

    Having said that, looking at this programmer, I get a strong feeling that its original design did not feature an LCD display either. It looks very much like a more recent add on. Something that was fitted at a later stage to make it look more impressive. More like a high end programmer. And to be honoust, the finish and build quality do look impeccable. But finish and quality don't tell the whole story. Programmer design has evolved also over the years, and some details tell me that this design is not a very recent one.

    Look at the photograph below. Now notice the power connector on the right side, the data cable connector at the top and the card slot at the front, underneath the LCD display. That means that this programmer (like several others) uses a design with cables and card sticking out everywhere. OK, of course I am exagerating a bit now, but why not simply put the connectors next to each other and preferably at the opposite side of the card slot. But hey, most of the new programmers do feature such design improvements.


    MaxKing Starlight Advanced XL

    Please insert the card with the contacts facing down!!!

    So how does it perform then?
    Well, the programmer does work without problems with all of the universal software for universal programmers. Chipcat, Cardwriter, Masterburner, ISVedit, you name it and it will work. But.... you need to know how to operate it. So lets start with a little explanation here.

    The programmer features an extra safety measure like more (older) programmers do. It will not allow you to switch programming modes while the card is inserted and the programmer has an open connection to the card. That means that you either need to extract the card from the programmer or you need to press the reset switch. That is the little red switch, just below the mode indicator LED. Only then you will be able to switch modes. This safety measure prevents the card from being damaged by unwanted power fluctuations while switching modes.

    The Starlight programmer features 7 programming modes of which only 4 do fit the scope of this website. Modes 0, 1, 2 and 4 are the ones you will need for the software, available in the download archive.

    Mode 0: Mouse mode 6 MHz.
    Mode 1: Mouse mode 3.5 MHz
    Mode 2: PIC prog mode
    Mode 4: AVR prog mode

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    Junior Member grind3374's Avatar
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    If google Duwgati Satinfo there is a heap of Downloads of programs u can use with this Programmer,there is also a tutorial on how to use the different software . I have only had my SLA-XL programmer for a few weeks and have found pretty much every thing there, if u know what programs u r after u can also search the Austech forums. Hope this is of some help to u

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    Thank you for the info - I have downloaded a few instructions - now lots of reading to do.
    Does the SLA-XL programmer require any drivers as I cant get my computer to recognise it. Currently running XP
    Would greatly appreciate any additional advice
    What voltage to use and mode etc
    Your assistance is greatly appreciated
    Regards
    jag198577

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    Junior Member grind3374's Avatar
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    with my old Notebook was able to connect Programmer direct to port no RS232 null modem cable required worked a treat ,got new lap top now only has USB ports, have found this to be a problem, does not function as it did on old notebook. Depending on what u want to do depends on what program and mode you will use , I mainly use mode 1 (Phoenix 3.57) & mode 5 (Twoprog 2.41) I'm fairly new to all this to mate so as they all say read up lol, have been reading that much am starting to confuse my self

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    Quote Originally Posted by jag198577 View Post
    Thank you for the info - I have downloaded a few instructions - now lots of reading to do.
    Does the SLA-XL programmer require any drivers as I cant get my computer to recognise it. Currently running XP
    Would greatly appreciate any additional advice
    What voltage to use and mode etc
    Your assistance is greatly appreciated
    Regards
    jag198577
    I too have the same issues, I bought from Kangamail but never received a power supply with the the programmer. I sent them an email but 9 months later still no reply.

    What is the correct volts/amps to make it work?
    Just chasing my tail and getting nowhere.
    In my last life, I must of been a dog.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jag198577 View Post
    ....I had a card for receiving free to air tv via a satellite dish but the card is not working any more....
    I'll make the assumption that you mean Aurora, if that isn't the case then my apologies and ignore what comes next.

    If the card is a genuine Aurora Irdeto Card, or a Gold/Silver/Funcard programmed for Aurora then put it in the decoder and leave over night, as the EMK's for Aurora are repeating constantly, it should take at the maximum an hour for the card's PMK to be updated to give pictures, I say over night, because if you haven't got pictures by then either the details were fake, or the card maybe stuffed. With a genuine Aurora card, you might need Channel Id's, again though, whatever channels the card is entitled to should come on withing the hour, if you want more PM me.

    However if the card is a Gold/Silver/Funcard (or other)which was programmed for the Irdeto 1 Austar/Foxtel then you would more than likely be out of luck as most cards back then only had Aurora PMK's programmed, which never used to be a problem as they didn't even bother rolling PK's back then.
    Cheers
    Ted (Al)

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    Quote Originally Posted by dishboy View Post
    I too have the same issues, I bought from Kangamail but never received a power supply with the the programmer. I sent them an email but 9 months later still no reply.

    What is the correct volts/amps to make it work?
    Hmmmm .... I'm intrigued. A quick Google (30 seconds) reveals that a member called "dishboy" asked similar questions on another forum last year and then posted a reply stating that a 9volt 1amp power supply was working for him. Others posted replies also.

    If that was you, what specifically is the problem at present?

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